beazu loom

Can anyone tell me where to find instructions for using this loom. I bought it when we were out west in July and it said instructions included on the box....but it was only assembly instructions.....I didn't unpack it until we got home and can't return it.....Thanks...Sharon in SW Ontario Canada

Reply to
biig
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Hi Sharon,

I googled and came up with this...

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Also, google for 'warp threads bead loom'.... there are about 3300 matches...

HTH,

Mavis

Reply to
AmazeR

Dear Sharon, If you have assembled the loom its fairly easy to warp and a great loom to learn on, far superior to the cheapy "Indian Bead Looms".

I'm assuming here that you have assembled the loom, but if not go ahead and put it together.

The easiest way to warp a loom for a piece of beadweaving, ( to make a bracelet or headband) is to cut pieces of thread at least twice as long as your finished project. You will need 1 more thread than your design is across in beads. If your design has 10 beads across, you will need 11 threads.

Tie the threads in an overhand knot, and slip the knot under the loose wooden piece on the lower bar. Its the one with the wingnuts. Loosen the wingnuts and wind the threads around the bar, once or twice. This will hold the loose wooden piece on the lower bar.

Separate the warp threads and position one in each of the spirals of the spring that is embedded in the upper bar. Before you tighten up the screws on both upper bars, orient the springs facing up.

Repeat the knot at the other end of the threads and position it under the loose wooden piece on the lower bar at the other end of the loom, wind the threads around the lower bar, until you have tightened the threads evenly and not too tightly.

The Beazu loom is also set up to warp with a continous thread also, those lower bars have a row of holes in them, just about the right size for a half a round toothpick or bamboo skewer (sp?) rod. Stick a toothpick in each of the holes at either end and wind your thread in one piece from end to end. Tension by loosening the wingnuts and turning the lower bars until you have the right tension.

A couple of books that have a wealth of info are, Those Bad Bad Beads by Virginia Blakelock and Weaving on a Loom by Don Pierce.

Let us know how you get on..... best, Emily

Reply to
Ponybead

Hi Emily,

When weaving fabric the outside warps are doubled. Is that done in bead weaving also?

Tina

Reply to
Christina Peterson

Hey Tina,

Most loom weaving I have done is without the doubled warps on the outer edge. However, if your plans for the finished piece of bead work call for using the edge threads to sew together the sides, as for a beaded bag or amulet bag then the doubled warp threads are wise. I don't advocate glueing the bead work to anything either, but I see it done all the time.

As far as thread goes I prefer Silamide to Nymo but I'm running my own test of C-Lon thread. So far it is a bit wirier than the Nymo and a bit less tangle prone. I wax it like Nymo (wax the hell out of it) and I've changed over to the micro crystaline wax which is supposedly better then regular old beeswax. I still prefer Nymo (unwaxed) for bead embroidery though, it seems to have the right tension.

best, Emily

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Ponybead

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biig

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Jilly

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