Sharing tips for beading

I love the tips people share here making beading a lot easier for me. So here are a few of mine. Please add some of your favorite ideas. Roxan

1.I use the tops to yogurt containers for putting small bead in while I am working. When I am done I can tip them into the my bead containers with out spilling them.
  1. I use medical veils with lids for keeping seed bead in. They are clear plastic and easy to store.
  2. I separate all my beads by color so when I am designing a piece it is easy to find what I need.
  3. I always knot my pieces in several places when I am done and never cut near the knot when finished but go through several beads before cutting the end of the thread.
  4. Never use metallic beads the color wares off leaving a clear bead. Use real metal beads, yes they are more expensive but you will never be disappointed with the results.
  5. When doing peyote stitch use a little white out to see where your last or first bead is in the row. This helped me when I was a beginner to keep track of the rows.
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roxan
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On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 20:11:14 -0500, "roxan" wrote: < LOL... so was I. :)

Harry <

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vj found this in rec.crafts.beads, from "roxan" :

]I was hoping that someone would add some good tips for beading to this list.

some are in the "Bead Notes". i intended to, but have just been too sick to think straight and trying to catch up with the work that has piled up.

----------- @vicki [SnuggleWench] (Books)

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vj

This works best if you have plenty of room to spread out, and with nobody (including yourself) who will knock them off your work space. I find it better to lay out a washcloth, and make tiny piles of the colors I'm using. For larger beads, I have a couple of placemats that have "channels" I can use to line up the beads (they're the woven fabric strip kind). For a portable work space-- use a jeweler's tray with a piece of Velux (sp?) cut to fit.

Film cans are another option. Free at photo processing places; the Fuji Film ones are translucent white. Film cans hold about 30g of 11/0s. I'm slowly switching to tic-tac boxes, though. All the medicine bottles I get seem to be yellow, and those "child proof" tops are a pain. I use tackle boxes and "daily dose" vitamin containers for larger beads; most of my lampwork beads and stone beads/cabs are in those hardware store storage chests. Film cans and small boxes are mostly in the small 3 drawer Sterlite chests.

I separate mine by type, mostly. Seed beads by size, as well. Stone. Pressed glass. Chinese lampwork. Fire polished. Swarovski. SS/GF. Base metal. Artisan beads. Bone, wood, shell... misc.... So far I've inventoried almost 500 items (Jewelry Designer Manager software), and I've hardly started....

Whether or "knot" you do this, is going to depend on what technique you are using.... If you use wire, or chain, of course you will not knot at all. If you use clam-shell or other bead tips, you end the knots inside the tip. If you are embroidering, end the thread in a seam allowance, if possible.

Never say never.... The "metallics" have their place-- add flash to non-wearables, or "one-time" wear pieces. The Japanese ones were intended for crafts projects, as near as I can tell-- and the Japanese seem to treat those as "disposable", no matter how much work they put into them. If you put the metallics or other coated beads between larger beads to shield them, they don't have as many problems. Some "metallic" colors are not readily available in real metals. And, "real metal" beads can tarnish, or rust, and are more likely to cut your thread....

Kaytee "Simplexities" on

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Kaytee

vj found this in rec.crafts.beads, from snipped-for-privacy@aol.comnospam (Kaytee) : ]>1.I use the tops to yogurt containers for putting small bead in while I am ]>working. When I am done I can tip them into the my bead containers with out ]>spilling them. ]This works best if you have plenty of room to spread out, and with nobody ](including yourself) who will knock them off your work space. I find it better ]to lay out a washcloth, and make tiny piles of the colors I'm using.

i do most of my beading in my recliner. i use a cookie sheet with a raised edge. in the bottom is a piece of that "non-slip" stuff, covered by a piece of t-shirt fabric [less "nap" to get in the way] or a flour-sack dishtowel. [i trade off if the cat hair starts getting in the way. i pile mine up, too - it gives me better "visibility" and color combination possibilities. i also have a table next to my chair, piled high with ziplock bags full of things "i might need".

]>2. I use medical veils with lids for keeping seed bead in. They are clear ]>plastic and easy to store. ]I'm slowly ]switching to tic-tac boxes, though. ]I use tackle boxes

i've switched exclusively to the tic-tac containers. Mary showed me last weekend which clear plastic tackle box containers to get so i can have more of them together. it works really well, since i'm building up such a store! my lampwork beads are all in tackle boxes - by artist. the "other" beads [Czech, etc] are sorted into drawers by color in ziplock bags.

]>3. I separate all my beads by color so when I am designing a piece it is ]>easy to find what I need. ]So far I've inventoried almost 500 items ](Jewelry Designer Manager software), and I've hardly started....

i sort by color - except seed beads. those are also sorted by color, but separately. i'm working on earning enough for the software Tink recommended. [as soon as i get to Seattle! . . . boy, that list is getting long!]

]>4. I always knot my pieces in several places when I am done and never cut ]>near the knot when finished but go through several beads before cutting the ]>end of the thread.

i seldom knot anything, unless i'm doing something that i can't use a crimp on.

]>5. Never use metallic beads the color wares off leaving a clear bead. Use ]>real metal beads, yes they are more expensive but you will never be ]>disappointed with the results. ]Never say never....

**grin** yep. i've been using the metalics lately between larger beads. hopefully, that will help.

hopefully some of this will help someone!

----------- @vicki [SnuggleWench] (Books)

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vj found this in rec.crafts.beads, from "roxan" :

]The cookie sheet is a great idea, the last time I tried to bead on my ]recliner my dog jumped up and they all spilled on the floor.

i think it was Marilee's suggestion, originally, and then i just played with it.

----------- @vicki [SnuggleWench] (Books)

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----------- The measure of the menace of a man is not what hardware he carries, but what ideas he believes.-- Jeff Jordan

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vj

vj found this in rec.crafts.beads, from "roxan" :

]I have a whole room to do must of my beading in ]which helps.

that's what Jamie says i'm going to have. a room for beads, computer, recliner, and TV -- so i don't get it all over the rest of her house.

**grin**

----------- @vicki [SnuggleWench] (Books)

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On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 20:11:14 -0500, roxan wrote (in message ):

I've written down tons of things over the years, as have many other folks on the group. Sooz did us the immense favor of compiling them, and they're available at:

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The file's name is beadnotes.doc If you cannot access Yahoo, let us know by posting to the group. One of us would be happy to send the file via email.

Kathy N-V

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Kathy N-V

I'm not sure if that's the correct spelling, but it's a plush type fabric, used for blankets. It has enough of a nap to keep the beads from rolling away, but not so much they get lost in it.

Kaytee "Simplexities" on

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Kaytee

I like to use moose hide as a work station. It's supple but substantial enough that it's not floppy. And it has a course enough texture that piles stay where they're put.

This isn't an option for most (I get the moose hide at the native co-op), but you might look for something of a similar texture. Like a shorter napped "velour" blanket piece.

Tina

Reply to
Christina Peterson

I can scan for color faster than I can scan for the differences in sizes 10,

11, 12. So I keep those separated by size. Only if I specifically plan a project using matched beads in several sizes (like for bowls, with minimal increases), bought as close to same "lot" as possible, will I keep beads together by size.

Vicki, do you crimp your PowerPro?

Tina

"vj" wrote

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Christina Peterson

Velux? Velour? I think what both she and I have referred to is a fabric, often used for hotels blankets (and nearly indestructible), which is like a velvet (think in terms upholstery, not clothing).

Tina

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Christina Peterson

I just realized I repeated your suggestion of Velux. The stuff gives me rash and I prefer and natural material, but I does function similarly.

Tina

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Christina Peterson

vj found this in rec.crafts.beads, from "Christina Peterson" :

]I can scan for color faster than I can scan for the differences in sizes 10, ]11, 12.

**SMILE** and i'm just the opposite!

]Vicki, do you crimp your PowerPro?

well, it's fireline, not powerpro, but yes - and never had a problem.

but if i'm using the 4lb for beadweaving or something, i don't crimp it - there isn't a place to put the crimp. those i have to tie.

----------- @vicki [SnuggleWench] (Books)

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----------- The measure of the menace of a man is not what hardware he carries, but what ideas he believes.-- Jeff Jordan

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vj

What size crimps? Micro?

I have to admit, I'm still not really comfortable with the crimp tubes.

Tina

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Christina Peterson

vj found this in rec.crafts.beads, from "Christina Peterson" :

]What size crimps? Micro? ]I have to admit, I'm still not really comfortable with the crimp tubes.

i usually use the tubes - but everyone in my area is totally out of them right now, so i've been using the smaller ones. still sterling, just the little round ones. they're a LOT harder to crimp than the tubes.

the jeweler here suggesting using some of my liquid silver as crimps . . .

----------- @vicki [SnuggleWench] (Books)

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(Jewelry)
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----------- The measure of the menace of a man is not what hardware he carries, but what ideas he believes.-- Jeff Jordan

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