Digitizing 101?

Just wondering if anyone knows anything about this book? It's called Digitizing 101. The description of the contents sounds thorough but I'm skeptical if anyone can learn digitizing from a book. The book is super expensive! Any opinions would be appreciated.

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Reply to
Sugarcookie
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My disclaimer first: I'm not a no-it-all and am providing this information to save someone(s) the time that I took to learn the following:

I'm a relative newbie to machine embroidery and learned the most from the software's manual and by doing sample projects.

I looked at several embroidery books and they seemed focused on "what" you can do vs. "how" to do it. Once being able to digitize what you want to create, try some of these tips that I found after much trial and error.

They are at random, based on my experience and I couldn't find a place to read about any of them:

1) Use the right stabilizer (critical). Two layers of cut-away works best on anything from t-shirts, knits etc. I found that tear-away was cut through by the embroidery / gave lousy results. 2) Hoop the stabilizer, not the project. Us a touch of spray adhesive between the two layers of stabilizer and hoop them tightly. Spray some more on top of the hoop/stabilizer and lay down your project. No hoop burns! 3) Use pre-wound bobbins / not your own. They are tightly wound, have tons of thread on them and provide a cleaner stitch. 4) Use black or white bobbin thread to match the project that you are stitching. The detail is much better when the right color is used especially when you outline something in a black satin with black bobbin thread. 5) Use a "Topstitch 80/12" needle. It has a larger eye for the embroidery thread (less breaks) and provides the cleanest stitching that I could find. Hey, I must have 10+ packages of other needles that I tried. 6) Run over it twice. I digitize a lot of items so that they are done twice, immediately after each other to avoid any misalignment. On soft fabrics like t-shirts, it's amazing to see that quality drastically improve after the 2nd run.

Reply to
Keith

information

Reply to
Fred Lebow

I agree w almost everything here

Cutaways have longer fibers allowing the threads to entangle themselves better leading to better registration = definition One layer of the proper weight "wet laid" non woven cutaway will suffice

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the weight of the stabilizer to your stitch count and density and =to the weight and stretch of your materialTest - we will send samples1) Use the right stabilizer (critical). Two layers of cut-away works best > on anything from t-shirts, knits etc. I found that tear-away was cut > through by the embroidery / gave lousy results. Everything that iI have developed has been to eliminate the use of nmessy adhesive sprays Pls see Wet N Stick
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2) Hoop the stabilizer, not the project. Us a touch of spray adhesive > between the two layers of stabilizer and hoop them tightly. Spray some more > on top of the hoop/stabilizer and lay down your project. No hoop burns! Again We will send samples Pls e-mail me off list

Fred Fred Lebow snipped-for-privacy@rnkdistributing.com Floriani Embroidery Sewing & Quilting Products

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Reply to
Fred Lebow

What do you mean by # 6 "go over it twice"? Are you saying to stitch the embroidery twice or digitize it twice?

Marianne

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Reply to
Marianne Teubner

Both really. When I was first trying / experimenting, I used single satin, triple satin etc. and got disapointing results. I'd re-run the entire embroidery in the machine and the results were better, but not ideal.

Now when I digitize something like "ABC", I digitize it so that each letter or object is done first with something like a single satin (with an edge run) and then again with a single satin (no edge run).

When it on the machine, the effect is that it stitches the A once, does it again, stitches the B, does it again and so on.

From my experience, running the stitch a 2nd time on each object produces a better effect as the alignment never shifts from the fabric stretching / moving from the embroidery. I.e. if you did "Harley-Davidson Motorcycles" completely once and then tried to re-do it completely the 2nd time you might be off a tad.

A lot of my embroidery is on t-shirts or other light fabrics and this is a big deal.

*Hope this helps
Reply to
Keith

Both really. When I was first trying / experimenting, I used single satin, triple satin etc. and got disapointing results. I'd re-run the entire embroidery in the machine and the results were better, but not ideal.

Now when I digitize something like "ABC", I digitize it so that each letter or object is done first with something like a single satin (with an edge run) and then again with a single satin (no edge run).

When it on the machine, the effect is that it stitches the A once, does it again, stitches the B, does it again and so on.

From my experience, running the stitch a 2nd time on each object produces a better effect as the alignment never shifts from the fabric stretching / moving from the embroidery. I.e. if you did "Harley-Davidson Motorcycles" completely once and then tried to re-do it completely the 2nd time you might be off a tad.

A lot of my embroidery is on t-shirts or other light fabrics and this is a big deal.

*Hope this helps

Reply to
Keith

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