Multi-Hooping tips please

Hi, just me again, begging for more help. I'd really like to do some of those huge jacket-back designs I've seen for Christmas Presents, but before I invest in the jackets and designs, I'd like to make sure I can handle multi-hooping.

Does anyone know of a website with step-by-step instructions for the best way to approach a multi-hoop design. My biggest concern is, obviously, getting the designs lined up together. I plan on practicing some on simple designs before I jump into something as complicated as the jacket-backs though.

I know about aligning stitches, but I'm thinking there are probably more hints and tips than simply using those, so any information you guys could share would be most appreciated.

TIA

LaffinMom

Reply to
LaffinMom
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One way to insure accuracy is to use templates for accurate placement. If you don't have templates you can make your own by stitching just the outline of the design. Nancy's notions has some videos on how to use templates etc, that might help you.

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Reply to
sonja

I am not sure what software you are using. I have the Bernina package and I print the designs with the grid lines on transparency film suited for my printer. I have a laser printer with no colour so everything prints out black, but for those who have color printers, you have to make your threads all black, print it, but DON'T save the file before you close it. Once they are all printed, you use these as templates to line everything up. I mark horizontal and vertical centre lines as well as diagonal lines on my fabric with a blue Clover Water Soluble Marker (fine point). Then I place the templates on my fabric. I mark on the fabric where the centre point of my design is onto my fabric. If you poke a hole through the centre point of your design template, you can place your blue marker through it to mark this centre on the fabric. Add additional lines for ease of centering. Buy a box of transparencies because it is worth the investment. (Hint: Print on regular paper first before printing on transparency so if you make a mistake, it is not that costly.) When I am ready to stitch out the design, I tape the template to the back of the hoop template making sure horizontal and vertical centre lines match. The centre point will have a pin hole and I make sure that matches the blue marked centre on the fabric. Sometimes I hoop fabric nine times and I am always bang on accurate with this system. Other things I do to ensure accuracy: Stitch a basting stitch just inside the hoop through the fabric and stabilizer before you do your stitch out. I downloaded these from the Bernina website and saved them onto my machine. I also stitch out evenly across my fabric. For instance, if I am doing a block, I do the centre, one corner, then the corner diagonal from it, etc. You don't want to work across the top, then the bottom or else you fabric starts puckering. The basting stitches help stop the puckering as well.

I have learned all this through aid of a wonderful Bernina instructor. It really helps to take classes with an expert and fellow classmates who struggle along with you.

Lin

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Reply to
Linda Guy

Wow - this is the clearest explanation I have read of how to do something I have been afraid to do... I am printing this out and saving it. These transparencies -where would I find them - Staples or a place like that?

Thanks!

Iris

Reply to
I.E.Z.

I have had problems with the toner ink from the printer rubbing off or smearing on the transparencies... anyone have a solutiion to this prob?

thank, paz

Reply to
Paz

A couple of hints -

Make sure that the transparencies you're using match your printer - that is, laser-jet media for laser-jet printers, ink-jet media for ink-jet printers. Transparencies made for Xerographic copiers are different again.

Don't do more than one page at a time, and have only that page in the printer (don't stack any paper stock before or after it). Wait a few minutes for it to set completely before handling.

Lexmark makes a waterproof black ink that reduces the tendency to smudge, but it probably isn't available for your specific printer.

- Herb

Reply to
Herb

Some transparencies have a rough side and a smooth side. Others are the same on both sides. The rough side is the side which should be printed. Some transparencies have a white strip either on the top or on the left. When you feed these through manually the white strip should be on the bottom side. That way any information won't get printed onto the white strip which gets pulled off the transparency when you are done. I hope that helps.

L> >

Reply to
Linda Guy

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