EARRINGS, WHAT ADHESIVE DO YOU USE?

The back of the glass should be a little rough. Usually mine are rough enough from the kiln wash or I rub it on some wet/dry sandpaper. The best earring posts have two holes in the back so the glue oozes up through the holes for extra grip. If you have no holes and the metal is slick, you can rough it up with sand paper also. You could try E-6000, most people seem to like it. It stays rubbery for a while so you can trim/clean up with a craft knife. Make sure you have fresh glue from the tube, discard the part of the glue that has been exposed to air in the cap. If the glue (E-6000) doesn't want to stick get some new fresh from the tube or clean your glass. I always work directly from the tube with a tooth pick. I haven't tried silicon on earrings but it works great for larger wall hangings (it has a strong smell, though). There is glue out there with an activator that I would like to try but I don't know the name of it (epoxy or UV?).

Rick, try a google for 'loctite' and 'uv'. As long as the glass is somewhat transparent and uv can get to the glue, you should be able to find one to fix glass to metal. Regards, Les

E-6000. Cure 48-72 hours.

If you work with E-6000, which is a silicone adhesive, have good ventilation because it stinks. Many people use it like a silicone RTV, squishing down the part, but if you read the directions, it is intended to be a contact adhesive - if you blob a bit, touch the two parts together, pull apart, hold, and then touch, you will find them almost impossible to shift immediately (so your aim should be good.) E-6000 is widely used. When it sets it produces a tough leathery material that is harder and less flexible than the silicone caulk products. It is also self leveling. The Goop products are made by the same company and if you look carefully, they do have different features. E-6000 is not UV resistant (it gets brittle and flakey) while Marine Goop is. UV-6800 is supposed to be UV resistant but it is not easy to find. Look on the web site.

Thanks to all that responded, here and privately. The overwhelming consensus is E-6000, so I'll be picking up some very soon!

Thanks

--Rick

Rick Frazier wrote:

would this glue also be suitable for gluing glass pieces on a painted [vertical] drywall wall in my family room to make a mosiac?

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Nope, the glass would just slid down the wall. You would need the stuff (can't think of the name) that they use for regular tile setting, like in the bath room type tile. Are you sure you want to mosaic right on to your dry wall? Try this link, he has lots of stuff about mosaics.

E-6000 is also sold under the brand names of GOOP.... i.e., Household Goop, Shoe Goop, Marine Goop, et al...... very same stuff, diff name.... go figger what is in the mind of marketers!? Shop for price, it varies widely ... very widely.

Cheers, Jacques Bordeleau

mastic is what you need to mosaic onto a vertical wall. go for it! m

keeping in mind I'm the same nerd who put an 8' X 1' panel on top his fence in the backyard instead of wood lattice - why not :)

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thanks - any brand names come to mind?

It'll be a project in one of them high ceiling family rooms, the wall is about 14' wide X 16' tall. Hmmm, getting second thoughts though. I was planning on 2 or 3 "suns," about 4~5' diameter and cover the rest of the wall with thin slices of the funky exotic wood (too nice for the fire place) that I have stashed in the basement. I have to figure a way to slice that stuff first as it's really hard/dense and it's totally brutal on my bandsaw (kills the blade after using it for only a few inches...).

Bart.

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the one that comes in a premixed bucket at home depot. apply with small V notched trowel. i used it on this:

it's lasted for years. you might want to round off the edges in a kilnbefore applying to the wall, as i didn't. not doing so makes it hard toclean (sharp edges) because the grout gets recessed below the glass edgesduring floating and cleaning.

ironwood? try asking what can cut it at a hardwood distributor or fine woodworking shop, or over on rec.woodworking.

regards, charlie cave creek, az

If it's ironwood (ipa), the best blade would be a carbide tipped, but you'll still eat a lot of blades up. There is a special wax coating that you will also have to put on the cut pieces to keep the wood from splitting.

the one that comes in a premixed bucket at home depot. apply with small V notched trowel. i used it on this:

it's lasted for years. you might want to round off the edges in a kilnbefore applying to the wall, as i didn't. not doing so makes it hard toclean (sharp edges) because the grout gets recessed below the glass edgesduring floating and cleaning.

ironwood? try asking what can cut it at a hardwood distributor or fine woodworking shop, or over on rec.woodworking.

regards, charlie cave creek, az

There's teak, jatoba, beech, mahogany and other weird and wonderful not-a-clue stuff

Yup. One of these days I'll still try and incorporate some woodslices like that into a SG panel, would look nice I bet.

don't have to worry about, it's bone dry thru & thru

Thanks for all the advice and well, when we tire of it we can always move ;) Oh, sorry about railroading this thread

Bart.

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What do you use for attaching glass to findings? What prep do you do prior to bonding? What sort of failure rate do you see for the bond?

E 6000

try it - you'll like it... Cheryl DRAGON BEADS Flameworked beads and glass