Glue for Jewelry - At my wit's end...

Hey, I have been attempting to glue silver bails to fused glass and I have had nothing but problems...

Tried superglue... got brittle and they basically fell off. Tried Goop... got rubbery and they basically slid off. Tried 2 part epoxy... seemed good, but even the slightest 'torque' pressure and they snap off.

I am at the complete end of my rope. Both the bail and the glass were abraded and clean. I want to weep.

Any suggestions? What am I doing wrong?? Andrea

Reply to
bliss3333
Loading thread data ...

Using the wrong adhesive, apparently.

Have you tried an adhesive called E-6000?

Reply to
Moonraker

Well, I have read that E-6000 is the same as Goop... And since Goop didn't hold...

I am wondering if I am just being too abusive. The pull strength seems good. It is just when I lever it that it pops off (with the 2 part epoxy...)

Thanks, Andrea

Reply to
bliss3333

E-6000. Read and follow directions. Put a bit on each part, then wait a few secs then put together. m

Reply to
michele

It is just when I lever it that it pops off (with the 2 part

" Doc, it hurts when I do that."

"Then, don't do that."

Please pay the nurse on your way out. Next patient, please.

Reply to
Moonraker

Reply to
bliss3333

Rumor has it that they are the same product. I don't know if it is true or not. But, for a few dollars, why take the chance?

Do a google search for E-6000 in rec.crafts.jewelry

Reply to
Moonraker

E-6000, like others have said. E6000 won't get rubbery if you let it dry overnight. Try 2 Ton Epoxy. Don't use too much and again...let dry

24 hours before you mess with it.
Reply to
neoglassic

E6000 or 3M DP105.

Jack

Reply to
nJb

Some folks who make large glass things (Debora Callier Moore

formatting link
for example) use silicon glue to hold glass to glass with good success. Might work for silver balls, too.Kerry

Reply to
KERRY MONTGOMERY

UV adhesive, Locktite 349, and appropriate uv light will do the ticket, betcha. Got a stained glass supplier near you that handles them? Seems like somebody might at least let you try it...

Reply to
Javahut

I have has success in attaching solder balls to regular stained glass (eyes) with just plain old clear silicon caulk. Those eyeballs seem to stay on forever for me. Might be worth a try anyway. Tomes

Reply to
Tomes

Goop and E-6000 are made by the same company. E-6000 is self-leveling (thick liquid) that properly used is a contact cement, so the thing about "a bit on each one, wait a moment, make contact" and let set overnight is correct. But alternatives for small areas are: bit on one piece, touch other piece to share the bit, remove for 10-20 seconds, replace - you should have difficulty moving piece even if you want to. E-6000 can be used like an ordinary silicone adhesive - slow drying. Goop products are specialized for each of the various uses while being more or less the same product. There is a table on their web site that shows some of the differences. For example, Marine Goop is not self-leveling and has higher UV resistance - it does a better job of staying where it is put than E-6000 when applied in a bead.

Reply to
Mike Firth

I would strongly recommend Triolyse. It's a two-part adhesive that holds glass to anything. Used in jewelry, broken glass/ceramic repair. Coat both pieces (at least the parts that touch) with one part and let dry 10 seconds. Add a drop of the hardener, press pieces together for a couple of minutes. Completely sets up in 6 minutes. Cleans up with damp cloth or rubbing alcohol.

formatting link
Luck!

Reply to
BlownFuse

Thanks for the heads-up on the Marine Goop, Mike.

I have been using E-6000 as a silicone adhesive in snowglobes for a few years now. Not bad, but not all that I had hoped. Will try the Marine Goop and see if it is better in this application.

Lori

Reply to
FlameNwind

Why use glue at all for jewelry?

I started drilling a few years ago [or fusing fine silver into the glass].

Glue and [opaque] glass are not a great mix. UNLESS you live in a part of the country with very low humidity and the purchaser is only going to wear it there...you always eventually end up with a thin film of water molecules between the glass and glue, and the piece falls apart. Granted this may take a year or more, but here in the northeast it's virtually certain to happen.

The greater physical integrity of drilled pieces, combined with the more professional looking result, is why I've switched. My customers appreciate this and are willing to pay a little more for something they know won't fall apart. They often ask me to repair other folks' work, which I only do if they'll let me drill...

If you have any smithing experience, another option is bezel setting your piece.

I really encourage you to find an alternate route...it may lead you places you never thought to go....

cindy

Reply to
Cindy

Also available are glass bales that can be fused on. Wire wrapping is another option.

Jack

formatting link

Reply to
nJb

InspirePoint website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.