Hydroperm again

Have you used molds for fusing up over 1600 degrees, and molten glass with Hydroperm? Did you use kiln wash?

Reply to
jk
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Say what????

If you are fusing, you are doing it flat, not in a mold, if you are kiln casting, then you are going higher and you should be using other things besides just Hydroperm, such as a binder. In one of the kiln casting books it mentions a formula with Hydroperm, diatomatieous earth ( swimming pool filter sand) and kaolin clay.

Primer does no good at those temps with a mold, the silica (sand) and clay extend the temps capable of the Hydroperm. Open face kiln casting, made some jewels with this method.

Reply to
Javahut

I'm trying to replicate some interesting old grape clusters, that look like they were mold poured. I'll let you know how it works out. Since I don't have that videotape someone promised me, I'm kind of tripping around trying to discover new things all by myself. Pity me...

Reply to
jk

. Since I

Hmmmm... Subtle, very subtle..

Reply to
Javahut

You too? ;>)

Reply to
Moonraker

Like a brick....

Reply to
jk

Reporting in folks:

I did some 6" hydroperm molds of grape clusters and fired to 1650 degrees. I coated them with shelf primer. Although I didn't get the detail I wanted, when cool the glass popped right out! No sticking at all. Next we'll go to

1800 and see if I can get better detail, and no sticking. When temp is glass pourable?

-- JK Sinrod Sinrod Studios

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Coney Island Memories
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Reply to
jk

As long as you are playing, try one with no shelf primer. I used a hydroperm mold as a blowing mold, the glass did not stick to it either. Glass was molten and over 1900, straight out of the furnace..

Reply to
Javahut

Oddly the biggest sticking prob I had with the stuff, was to the actual piece I was molding! If you do more than one mold of the same piece, the first one tends to leave a coating that helps the second stick like glue!

Reply to
jk

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