Newbie needs to buy a grinder

Once again you show that you just "don't get it".

Here's a newbie getting a new kiln and just embarking on a new hobby, and yer ignorant ass is trying to set him up with production shop equipment. You are so far out of touch with reality.....

Why don't you stick to exporting Moose poop...at least that is something you are qualified to shovel.

How do you expect to compete within your recently mentioned retail shops in US if you don't want to sell beginners grinders? What will you sell? Why would you even want to open US retail shops since you claim the SG biz here is going down the toilet? (and you won't be selling grinders, so what WILL you be marketing?) I have never had the need for a belt sander and i reckon i've been fusing way longer than you. I started with a microwave kiln in mid seventies. And you? You would do well to stop misleading these people, they will find out what you are about soon enough and then your American glass endeavors will drop over 40% just as the rest of your SG biz has! m!

I've used the same Wizard grinder every day for 20 years, how's that for personal recommendation? I also own a big full size wet belt sander that I picked up over 10 years ago. I think I turned it on twice in all that time.

I can recommend, based on personal experience, either Wizard or Glastar grinder, get the largest your budget will allow. You may not use it every day, but you will use it more often than a wet belt sander. If you can afford both, knowing the wet belt sander is considerably more money, then get both. We have one of everything in my studio, and we do use the wet belt sander often, BUT we don't "just" do anything, we do everything, so without knowing what you are going to focus your talents on, I can't say suggest one over another. That is other than to say, a grinder can do everything a sander can do, a sander can do nothing a grinder can do.

Or you need precise inside curves on your pre-fusing pieces and a wire saw isn't in your budget. Or you're doing something like cabs for which the rounded-over edge is actually preferable. Or you're doing both leaded and warm-glass work, maybe together in a single piece.

Ideally, you'd have both. Anyone who thinks a WBS can take the place of a grinder is either an idiot or is selling wet belt sanders, and anyone who thinks a grinder can take the place of a WBS is going to have to make up new cursewords when they wear out the ones they already know. They're different tools and they have different strengths. Trying to use the one when you need the other is eventually going to lead to frustration or pain or both.

In non-glass terms, saying "I don't need a circular saw; I have a roto-zip!" is only slightly less insane than saying "I don't need a roto-zip, I have a circular saw!"

Maybe. "If" you were grinding straight lines, a WBS might be useful. But then that brings up the question, why would one "need" to grind a straight line? That's what tee-squares and rulers are for, to cut straight lines. I've been doing SG for more than 20 years, I can only think of ONE time where a WBS would have been useful, when I needed to edge down a whole slew of rectangular bevels on one side. If you know what you are doing cutting SG, you don't need a grinder anyway. I can go days without ever turning one of mine on.

Hummmh. I think nearly everybody else BUT you would choose a grinder over a WBS. So, now, who is just flat out stupid?

I have seen the large wet belt sanders in studios. Are there any small versions that would be useful?

Well, this has been informative...and just as entertaining as I had expected! ;0 )

Ultimately, I am certain that I will purchase a wet belt sander at some point (thank you, Dennis...if not for you, I wouldn't even know about yet another tool I will want to purchase! lol)

But currently I would like to purchase a grinder. The reason is that I am still not skilled enough not to need to grind pieces. I appreciated the comment that they are all cheap little motors in cheap little plastic boxes, because it appears that the basics ARE indeed just that. It is the various "upgrades" and "accessories" that I am having difficulty with in making my purchase.

I am wrestling with whether any of these items are worthy of the extra bucks charged?

Quick change bits - How difficult are the non-quick change bits? Combo router bit/disc grinder types? Will I regret not getting the disc grinder part to use in typical stained glass/fused glass applications? Second story double size bit grinders, i.e. one with both a 1" and 1/4" bit? Sponge method or brush and pump method of wetting?

Egads, I didn't have this much trouble deciding on the ring saw I purchased (which I have found little use for as yet! sigh)

Thanks so much for what you have answered so far...what a terrific source of info you all are!

Lori (flamenwind)

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm." Sir Winston Churchill

Awesomely put, Javahut!

I just posted a clarification of particulars I am looking for and, although the info and discussion regarding the wet belt sander is beyond the scope of my initial inquiry, it is information appreciated. It has helped me decide that I will not be purchasing a wet belt sander just yet. Of course, I now know about another tool that I most definitely will want in the future! LOL Lots of good info. Thanks! Lori

any small

Connie:

I'd look at some of the nice lapidary combo wet sanders like those manufactured by Highland Park, etcetera.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

I do this too. I have my 1/4 bit on top of the regular bit and just hold a bit of wet sponge behind the 1/4 incher when I use it. The only time I am using the allen screw that holds the bit(s) on is when I need to change it due to wear-out or move it up or down due to wear to use a new spot on the bit. Tomes

Much thanks to all! I made the plunge and am awaiting the arrival of my new Glastar grinder with both the 1/4" and 1" bits. Everyone's input was greatly appreciated!

Thank you all very much! The new Glastar grinder with both a 1/4" and 1" bit has been ordered and is on its way. I am certain that I probably was over-thinking the entire thing, but the input was just what I needed. Greatly appreciated!

Lori

ah, you just wanted to stir up a bit of Dennis bashing, you probably ordered that thing before the first post was on.....hehehe

Oh, I wish I were that devious! LOL (although I must admit enjoying the...um....chemistry among you! It is truly dynamic!)

Lori

Hi All

Not wishing to reignite the WBS vs Grinder debate

but

I'm doing some kiln-fused pieces for jewellry - they sometimes need grinding or even diamond-sawing to shape after the first full fuse.

If I fuse them straight after sawing / grinding, I can end up with an embedded 'haze' at the edges of the glass, apparently caused by the coarse grinding / sawing. One way round this seems to be to use the

600-grit drum sander (as close as I can get to a wet-belt sander) - to smooth out the rough edges, and then fire-polish.

Is this the way that others do it ? - or am I doing 'something wrong' in the first place that leads me down this route ?

I do have a 'spare' (= broken !) grinder that could be recommissioned, and fitted with a fine grinder head - maybe this is the way..?

Suggestions / comments please - but don't tell me to buy a WBS, thanks

Adrian Suffolk UK ======return email munged================= take out the papers and the trash to reply

HI,

as far as I know, the haze is partly loose glass powder left after grinding. Carefull washing with a tooth brush helps a bit.

I speculate that grinding leaves also tiny breaks in the edge.

Fine grinding to 400 grit usually is enough to fire polish, if you give the piece time to settle while hot.