Question About Cutting Ceramic Plates

I have a number of nice transferware older ceramic or china (not sure which is the correct term) dinner plates (Stafforshire- could be ironstone- whatever that means in terms of pottery and materials?) that I would like to reshape into various sizes. I didn't want to smash the lot (though many have edges that are chipped, and so can't really be used as crockery anymore) the way you do when you want random tiles. Instead, I would like to pinpoint some part of the plate, ie, the middle 3 inches, that has a complete picture to it. I would like to cut it out and then make an oval or round shape to it, and if possible, do this to other parts of the plate that have nice designs on them.

My questions are: How do you actually cut into the plate to get to the various parts you want to- do you saw into and around it roughly, like a piece of wood, and then sand down the edges to refine it? Do you use a hacksaw? Or is breaking the plate the only way to divide it? Is there any way to control the breakage if you can't saw your way into it? Also, if you want to make tiered plates with good dinner plates, what kind of a drill bit would you use and other preparations would you have to make to ensure you didn't crack the plates when you drilled the center holes? What would be the widest diameter you could drill?

Thanks for any input on this.

Reply to
R. Seed
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This is EXACTLY the kind of job that a diamond band saw would make nice work of, check with a local stained glass retailer and see what they offer in that line. There are several different manufacturers in different price ranges, also buy an extra blade when you get the saw, to do several plates may just use up a single blade!

Reply to
Javahut
[The best tool for this would be a tile saw, if straight edges were okay. You'd be able to do quite a few plates (hundreds, if not thousands) before replacing the blade. Tile saws are much quicker-cutting than diamond bandsaws as well.]

Andrew Werby

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Reply to
Andrew Werby

Well...I just wonder how one would hold a round plate or saucer tightly up against a saw's fence to insure that straight cut? Seems to me that you'd be darn lucky to get a cut that was either straight or make a square corner, starting with a round plate.

Reply to
Moonraker

my tile saw can ONLY cut straight cuts or very slight curves. I would just draw the line on with a marker impervious to water and have a go! I don't imagine perfection is all that important in his endeavor?? Did you get box #

2 moon? m
Reply to
Michele Blank

Not yet. I guess box #2 has Sinrod's tape in it. ;>)

Reply to
Moonraker

i have the receipt handy so if you don't get it Mon or Tues i will have a chat with the Postal folks. I prefer a good wine to scotch anyway! m

Reply to
Michele Blank

I "knew" I should have held her paycheck hostage........

Have you ever ordered stuff from SGWarehouse in Asheville? I got on their email list, and they have some good sales from time to time. I just ordered some cases of lead came for lots cheaper than I could have gotten them locally.

Reply to
Moonraker

[My tile saw isn't the same as a table saw made for wood- it has a sliding stage with a slit through it, except for a raised edge at the back. So you just hold the tile (or plate) down, and slide it forward for the first cut. If you want a second cut that's square to it, you rotate the plate so the cut surface rests against the back edge, and slide forward again. The major thing you don't want is for there to be any rocking of the part as it's cut - that would bind the blade.]

Andrew Werby

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Reply to
Andrew Werby

i called them once after finding their name in my local phone book but they were so rude i did not pursue it. i deal with AGH a lot and sometimes WC, Bendheim, and Sunshine. Depends what i need, i try to do a majority with a single entity so i get them used to how i want things done. m

Reply to
Michele Blank

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