Tabletop finish

I've built several benches to do stained glass on. They aren't anything fancy, just built out of 2x4s and plywood. The work surfaces are 3/4" finish plywood. Before they get soaked in flux, sweat, and beer, is there a good finish to use for wood surfaces used for stained glass work? I'm sorta thinking that it's best left unfinished, but if there is a good finish, now's the time.

Thanks, Michael

Reply to
Michael
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I had some SherwinWilliams clear acrylic industrial finish that I put on some worktables in my warmglass shop. It sure looks good and seems to be holding up well. It was left over from a couple of restain/refinish jobs we did, at at $105/gal I decided not to let it go to waste.

Reply to
Moonraker

you might lay a piece of sheetrock on top. it makes a great cutting surface and soaks up all those liquids. It also is impervious to the soldering heat. m

Reply to
michele

Get a bunch of particle board cut up into different sizes and use those as your work boards. It's so much easier to turn projects over and move them out of the way. I never build anything directly on my worktables.

Reply to
Chemo the Clown

I had some SherwinWilliams clear acrylic industrial finish that I put on some worktables in my warmglass shop. It sure looks good and seems to be holding up well. It was left over from a couple of restain/ refinish jobs we did, at at $105/gal I decided not to let it go to waste.

************* At that kinda price I'd be wanting to do shots. I'll be back down your way here in a couple months, Moonraker. If your offer for a visit still stands, I will try and make it by. It's always refreshing and inspirational to see quality work and meet the people who do it.

Michael

Reply to
Michael

you might lay a piece of sheetrock on top. it makes a great cutting surface and soaks up all those liquids. It also is impervious to the soldering heat.

*************** Thank you for the suggestion, Michele. That is a great idea. The owner of Southern Glass down in Jacksonville recommended that, too, but I had associated it pretty much with assembling came panels, and didn't have it figured as a full-service top. I'm going to raise the floor about a half-inch with something easy to stand on. That means the drywall on top would maintain the relative bench height.

Michael

Reply to
Michael

Get a bunch of particle board cut up into different sizes and use those as your work boards. It's so much easier to turn projects over and move them out of the way. I never build anything directly on my worktables.

***************** I need to do that for sure. Right now I'm cutting and laying the pieces out on the pattern on top of a couple sheets of cardboard. I've had to move my two lamp-halves several times now, and every time I move them I shudder at the thought of the cardboard buckling or me dropping it. I've thought about numbering every piece against that occasion, but that's an extra step I'd rather avoid.

Thank you for the suggestion, Chemo.

Michael

Reply to
Michael

Me, personally..I don't like drywall. Chalk gets all over the place and you must tape the edges to try and keep them from just crumbling apart. I never like the way the nails held in dryall either. Particle board takes lots of abuse. Most work boards I have are almost 15 years old. Plus, it's alot more sturdy to transport panels.

BTW...Larry the Cable Guy just became a father. Baby girl. Said to look just like Phil Collins. Weighed in at 6 lbs 14 oz which is just two pounds under what Nichole Richie weighed last week.

Reply to
Chemo the Clown

Reply to
Moonraker

Reply to
michele

In traveling from studio to studio doing,work to assist others, I have found that there are so many ways to do the same thing, differently. Everyone is convinced that their way is the best. and it is, for them. I try them all, even methods of doing things that feel so foreign that I know it won't work for me. But I give it an honest try. Then I go back to doing things the way in which I am most comfortable, and therefore most productive.

I don't care for wallboard, crumbles too easily for me and makes a mess. Not much for particle board for the same reason, no long term results.

I don't build windows directly on the table, I have a board, 3/4" plywood, b/c grade, good one side? and I cut it to fit the project I am working on. as they wear, over time, I cut them smaller for smaller projects and the big stuff gets new wood. I use glazing nails, and horseshoe nails both, but have taken the "6 city horseshoe nail lately. It likes the plywood and doesn't leave particles everywhere, and if I spill my small flux jar, I just wipe it up and it is not absorbed by the particles.

To each their own, and to the original poster, Michael, leaning against the wall, at the end of the table that was to the rear of the room, over by the closet? You didn't notice all of them there?

Reply to
Javahut

They are "supposed" to be on the work tables with windows being made on them, not leaning on the wall. Didn't I teach you better than that?

You fricking part-time basement bandit, you.

Reply to
Moonraker

OOPS, guess I better go out and knock folks in the head and tell them how bad they need my stuff.

Michigan economy sucks!! My new mantra, right after I adapt....LOL

Reply to
Javahut

To each their own, and to the original poster, Michael, leaning against the wall, at the end of the table that was to the rear of the room, over by the closet? You didn't notice all of them there?

***************** I was looking at everything all the time, Javahut. All the beautiful lamps and windows, elaborate grinding and polishing machines, original Tiffany pieces, kiln and casting equipment, antique cash register about the size of my Honda Civic Station Wagon, and tons of glass. The boards must have been hiding behind some glass.

Thanks for taking your whole day to answer a newbie's questions, and for all the cool stuff you sent home with me.

And hey! Let me spam the group one last time with a photo of my first lamp perched up on it's base and sitting in the corner of our living room. Thanks to Javahut for all the advice on getting the deed done. It was an absolute pleasure.

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Reply to
Michael

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Excellent first venture with the Tulip, and it was nice having you here, (look forward to seeing you again) the enthusiasm of someone so eager to learn is also of benefit to those of us that may have gotten a bit "stale" about the craft. It does everyone good. I would still rather win the lottery and retire, but then if you can't do that, this is the next best thing...

Reply to
Javahut

Nice looking lamp there Michael !

(I wish I had that kind of patience...)

/FC

Reply to
Jman

You do have that kind of patience, you just don't know it.

DO NOT count pieces, just decide that is what you want to build and work on it a little every day. Don't press it if you are tired and want to quit, but also don't let a day go by without doing something on it, even if it means only cutting one piece of glass. Keep a picture nearby of what it looks like finished, or one nearly like it, that will serve to keep you focused on WHAT you want to achieve. Before you realize it, your done.

Reply to
Javahut

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> Michael

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

USING HANDMADE GLASS, Odyssey and 3/16 foil whenever/whenever possible makes a big difference

try it on your next project!

only have made about 1,000 shades with about 200 of them Odysseys!

only stuck with about 3 of them in my house.........

howard

Reply to
howard

I never worked on wood.... always homosote.

Reply to
JKGlassman

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