Is this possible?
(instead of using the hacksaw for lots of came sawing or buying an expensive came miter saw? :-) Has anyone tried this, and what specific blade did you use for miter cuts on zinc came and/or rebar?
TIA!
Yes, it is possible. I have been using the same blade since 1974. It was made for cutting aluminum and other non-ferrous metals.
I have one of the wood miter boxes with different came widths that I use to hold the came while cutting. I made a special one with a router for the one I use the most. I took a 4 foot long hardwood board and cut a groove with a router that will fit the 1/2 inch that I use the most. I clamp this to the base of the saw bed. LEE G
I also use a 10" miter saw. Use a non-ferrous metal cutting blade. Makes a nice cut. Use the blade also to sand ends smooth. Wear glasses/goggles.
Boy talk about overkill! I use a little 4" wimpy very fine blade table saw that works just fine. If you catch the zinc wrong with that bad boy, it will be instant flying shrapnel.... be careful!
Ahem, yes, it may be overkill (thank you for your reply and concerns). But I **already have** the DeWalt 12" miter saw (and absolutely love it for woodwork) and a plain hack saw that cuts the old-fashioned way :-) . I do not have a 'little 4" wimpy very fine blade table saw', nor do I have a nice $200ish Gryphon miter came saw. Thus, the original inquiry was worded as "Is this possible?" ... to speed up the cutting with the big saw although I have never used my DeWalt on metal (even though they are designed to cut gutters/downspouts too, yes?) When it comes to power tools, appliances, and gadgets, I do try to make full use of what I have first, insteading of going out and trying to buy the perfect tool for the job (e.g. I do not own a dedicated egg slicer gizmo or hydraulic garlic press but use knives for these purposes).
I presume the previous respondents who have used such method still have all their fingers, eyeballs, and skin intact.
Glassman wrote:
Rather than a dedicated non-ferrous blade, which you may not use for anything else, try a "panel" blade for cutting wood paneling, and turn it backwards. I know of several door installers that use that on a power circular saw, 7 1/4" , for cutting the skin on steel doors to install doorlites on the job. The short distance and larger number of teeth will keep the blade from "catching" the metal.
I have the wimpy Grypon came saw. Got it when it first came out and have been using it ever since. Well worth it and I consider that it's paid for itself easily.
andy
Glassman wrote:
For the cost of a very fine blade for your 12" box, I would guess you can aquire one of the little guys. I don't think anyone was critical of your choice of weapons, it's just that when the topic comes up, we all relate what we use. Of course you're going to use what you already have first. As I said, watch out for flying shrapnel when the channel catches the zinc wrong. I almost got impaled using a wood cutting blade on my mitre box, and wouldn't use it again.
Well, the $70-85 price of a good 12" metal cutting blade may be what finally pushes me over the edge to buy the Gryphon miter came saw - about a third of the way to a Gryphon came saw purchase (funny how one can justify the purchase of just about anything if they want it bad enough ... but, hey, I am saving money, I still have not bought a glass saw :-) Plus, I have a whole lineup of windows and large panels to work on, so mucho came/rebar sawing tasks coming up.
Thank you to all the previous posters for the replies!!
Glassman wrote:
concerns).
cutting
When it
I haven't tried the Gryphon came saw...but I did have one of the Diamond Tech saws that Delphi sells. The bearings on the saw shaft were so sloppy loose that the blade wobbled. I sent it right back.
I know it's an el-cheapo saw, but Harbor Freight sells a mini cut-off saw that I carry around on my truck. The motor is underpowered, but it does have one really neat feature. That is the way the material is clamped into a mini-vise, so the metal doesn't slide around while cutting. You can usually pick one up for $30 or so, and then put one of the Gryphon blades on. The HF model is a steel saw blade that won't last for cutting came. The Gryphon abrasive wheel makes a nice cut.
I've found that pretty much anything that is motorized that comes from Diamond Tech is usually only worth about 1/2 or less that what they sell it for. Funny thing...the first bandsaw that Diamond Tech came out with sure looked like the bandsaw that Grypon had for years before. As soon as anything new comes out, diamond Tech runs over to China and has a cheap copy made.
Andy
Yep. That Diamond Laser 1000 bandsaw that they used to sell for $300 or so is now available from Harbor Freight for $129...and the replacement blades are like $20 or so.
Well, if you really want overkill my brother now has a 42 inch rock saw from the early 1900's.
Forget the glass saw, unless you need to cut lightning bolts and such, you'll use it twice a year. For zinc and lead you can also buy a cheapie little hobby saw used for cutting tiny wood sheets.
For cutting came? That *is* overkill.
Jack
Good tip, thanks. Even if you dedicate a reversed panel saw blade to came-cutting, it would still be more economical in the short run than those non-ferrous blades. Those things are pricey. I wonder if I can put a 7" panel saw blade on my 10" chop saw? I'll have to take a look.
Consider making a thicker "bed" for the saw, maybe routing out a groove in the bed in which to place the came while cutting it. I have an old DeWalt chop saw that I made a thicker bed by gluing 2- 3/4" thick pieces of MDF together, and then routing a 1/4" by 3/8" groove to sit the came into. The groove keeps the came from twisting while being cut.
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