Floss length

For every stitcher, you will find a different answer. I use long lengths. I know how to handle the floss. I don't mind the waste because the end will inevitably shred, but it gives me longer ends to tuck in, while those who use short lengths try to get down to that last nub and drive themselves bonkers doing it.

The usual caution is to use lengths about 18". For metallics about 12". Metallics don't fare well going in/out of fabric, so the shorter length makes perfect sense.

I recently finished a new course for EGA and one of the pilot stitchers mentioned that I should have stipulated 18" to 24" for the length of thread, since some stitchers will use too long a length. I worded it: Use longer lengths of thread than you are used to so that there aren't a lot of endings on the back. (It's a stuffed bear). I'm not changing the text. I figure people should learn different ways and come to their own conclusions.

Dianne

I take the floss in my hand and hold it out to my entire arms length, then to the center of my body and that's how long I use. Unless, I have pain in my shoulder that day or drag on my neck muscles, then I make it half that length. I don't go to the last piece of floss unless I am stretching to get one last stitch. And, even then, only if it's the last of that color in the area of the design. Victoria

However long it suits you to cut it. I don't like having it too long because it's too much work to drag it through the fabric. Many instructions call for 18 inch lengths. I think mine might be a little longer, but not much. Metallics and anything else delicate, I keep short.

Elizabeth

I generally use the loop method. If that is the case, I probably cut off a strand of 36-40 inches if there i a reasonable amount to stitch. If there are just a few stitches to be done, one cuts accordingly. I don't think there really is an answer to the question...."it all depends"

Gillian

I guess it all depends would be my answer too. Right now I'm doing a lot of back stitch outlining using a single strand of floss and I'm using long pieces in order to avoid too many ends. With metallics, I found shorter is definitely better.

If I can use a loop start, I cut the strands between 36 and 40 something so double is about 20".

I use loop starts, so if I cut too much floss, it tends to get wasted. I count how many stitches of the next color there are to do, and cut off a guestimate of how much I need to do just that many stitches, If I am going to run out of floss before I run out of stitches, then I use two pulls from the skein. With a loop start this means a length of one pull. HTH.

I never measured , how much i cut, as i do it by `feeling`, thus out of curiosity i measured my `regular` cut ,,, it is 40 cm long . mirjam

I was going to ask you what a hoop start was,but you answered it in your email. Thank you Barbara P.S. I have been cutting of pieces of floss no perfect size and ending off with a piece of floss at the end of 4".Much to small. Barbara

My answer is like everyone else's -- it all depends :-). I'm like Jim, I use pulls of floss from the skein as my measurement. I'm also like Dianne and Gillian, etc. -- I use really long lengths but only when stitching with cotton. I use a loop start so I generally measure about

5 pulls from a skein of cotton floss. For metallics, Wisper, etc. I use about 18"; for silks I use 24". When stitching with the more delicate fibers, I use a larger needle to help open the hole to reduce wear on the fibers. CiaoMeow >^;;^<

PAX, Tia Mary >^;;^< (RCTQ Queen of Kitties) Angels can't show their wings on earth but nothing was ever said about their whiskers! Visit my Photo albums at

Ditto on the "it depends" - what thread, what ground fabric, what stitch. With cotton floss on linen, I probably use about 18"-22". I rarely loop start- just depends. With some of the carded overdyes, I will open the skein, and likely cut it at the knot, which ends up giving a good stitching length. With some, that's a doubled lengthe. Otherwise - it's what I pull. I also often will thread up 2 or 3 needles when I do that pull of thread from a skein.

If I'm doing specialty stitches that have long "legs" between passing through the fabric, I'm likely to use longer lengths. OTOH, I'm careful w/ delicate threads, or those that will fray, untwist, etc. Personally, I'm likely to end threads and start a new one rather than have some stitches start to look thinned. Particularly when I'm working on canvas. And, agreeing w/ Mary, I will choose a needle to open the hole in the ground fabric to prevent damage to thread. At the same time, I try not to have the thread wearing in the needle eye too much.

When I teach, I try to be clear w/ length advice/instructions. One class - which was being done on canvas - the stitch to be done is an interwoven/interlaced stitch, and needs a long length so that you're not stuck ending in some impossible fashion. So, I told the class to cut about

36 " length - a bit more than twice the size of their 16" stretcher bars. I look up, and one of them has a piece pulled her entire armspan plus - about 6-7' = it was hilarious (she's about 5'10"), and had tried to do the first stitch that way. Talk about trying to keep something straight!

Bottom line - what is comfortable for a stitcher to handle, in consideration with what they may or may not notice WRT effects.

Ellice