I'll ask this on the sewing group too, but you all are always quick to respond and hopefully know the answer. I'm sewing a pair of pants and it's my first try a a pattern that isn't one of the "easy" ones. Here's the issue: my hips are one size smaller than my waist. Can I just cut on the larger waistline and blend the pattern cutting lines together? And if that's so, then which crotchline should I use? If I can't do that, then should I just rely on letting out the waistline darts to make the waist bigger? TIA! Sara L.
I've done this many a time, but the opposite problem (requiring a smaller waist). You want to use the part of the pattern that fits best overall. Key points are hips and crotch for pants, bust and shoulders for dresses and shirts.
I'd start with the part that fits your hips. Next, you need to identify what part of your waist is larger in comparison to your hips. If it's evenly distributed, then evenly distribute front and back. Add 1/4 to the side seams, and the rest from the darts assuming front and back darts. Keep the dart length, just narrow them a little. If you have more girth in the front, then add 3/8 to each front side seam, 1/4 to the back side seam and leave the back darts alone. Use the waistband from the larger size, but note that the markings may not line up correctly (especially seam markings).
And do yourself a favour and go out and buy a remnant in a similar weight of fabric, and make that up first. Then you can see where else you need to adjust, without feeling the pressure of using expensive fabric (plus you end up with a second pair of pants you can always use for working around the house).
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