Bisque Fire question

You won't get as thick a coat of glaze as the body won't be porous enough to suck up a normal amount of glaze. If you have a particular look for a glaze you probably won't get it. Best to go with transparent or flat glazes that will look okay thin.

I saw pots by a novice who thought you had to bisque to glaze firing temp. She bisqued to cone 10!! High fire stoneware. Then she glaze fired to cone 10. Thin transparent glaze but they were glazed. We were amazed.

Elaine

This actually happened in a studio I used to volunteer at (only worse - fired to cone6). The glazes we use worked just fine. Getting the glazes think enough was a problem (people heated their pots, used corn syrup, glazed, heated, glazed again, etc.). Clear worked without any issue at all. Inside of bowls and such were easy enough to get think. Outside was tricky. These are for cone6 oxidation. I don't know if seeing them will be of use but here a few of them are.

Bate's Clear Clear Glossy

6 Works nicely over other glazes

Feldspar--Kona F4 3500 Flint 2200 Gerstley Borate--1999 1800 Kaolin--EPK 1000 Strontium Carbonate 800 Whiting 800

Floating Blue/Green Opalescent Blue-Green Glossy

6 Really nice when nice!

Nepheline Syenite 4730 Gerstley Borate--1999 2700 Flint 2030 Kaolin--EPK 540 Cobalt Oxide 100 Iron Oxide--Red 200 Rutile 400

Weathered Bronze Green light green to dark brown Matt

6 Pinnell's

Nepheline Syenite 4920 Strontium Carbonate 1990 Ball Clay-Old Mine #4 1790 Flint 800 Lithium Carbonate 500 Titanium Dioxide 130 Copper Carbonate 670

Toby's Red earthy red satin gloss opaque

6 small segar rich and lovely but uses gerstley

Gerstley Borate--1999 3200 Flint 3000 Feldspar--Kona F4 2000 Talc 1400 Kaolin--EPK 500 Iron Oxide--Red 1515

Steve,

We've met this one before!

Our usual advice is to warm up the pots until you can barely touch them, then dunk them in the glaze. That way you get a much thicker coat than if you glazed them cold. The surface may be a bit frail, but if you add about 2 percent Gum Arabic to the glaze, that will help, and won't hurt when you next glaze some 04 bisc.

Steve Bath UK

In article , snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com writes

Excellent! thanks for the help everyone. I'll give these suggestions a try and let you know how it works out!

Thanks again!

Apparently my thinking about typos (collecting them for research interests sake) worked really well for generating data. That (originally typed This - my I am working overtime) is THICK not think.

i have some pots that were no glaze, fired to cone 10, thinking the clay body would look good. sometimes they do work nicely. we don't always have to glaze pots for a nice result.

~ but these were blah.

so i glazed them & put them thru raku.

~ they came out great!

the key was/is that the raku glazes were mixed on the thick side, the pieces had thin walls, and the pieces were fired slowly to give them a chance to heat up without cracking the clay body.

see ya

steve

DKat wrote: