equipment

In my opinion, DON'T buy all that expensive, automated equipment until you know how to perform the basic processes of ceramics BY HAND

-- they way they've been done since the Ice Age. By "basic" I mean things like wedging clay, reclaiming clay, and rolling or cutting slabs manually. I'm not being sentimental about tradition -- this is just practical.

Before we advise you it would be good to know what experience you have. What pottery/ceramic work you have done. What you intend to do and make. Annemarie

I'm with Marco on this.

We often advise people who are just starting out to buy a 1 cube plug-in kiln with cone 10 capability so that they can experiment with it and get a quick turn-around on their efforts and not have to fill a larger kiln with lots of stuff. When they decide to upgrade to a larger version they can then use the original small one as a test kiln. The same goes with other kit, except Wheels; don't go for a cheap option, take advice and get a good one; it will stand you in good stead for a long time. If you decide clay is not for you a quality wheel will always re-sell.#

Steve Bath UK

In article , Marco Milazzo writes

Very sage advise. I'm reminded of a photographer I know who taught a basic course in photography. He had to start telling students not to buy ANY of the equipment he introduced after a guy with more money than sense kept coming in with the latest most expensive lenses, new bodies, light meters, etc. He said the guy never learned to make a photograph he was so busy getting all the latest cameras, etc. He was never able to convince the guy the it was the person behind the camera that was the most important, not the equipment. To my way of thinking pottery is exactly the same.

You mention architectural ceramics. If this is something you are heading towards, start small and learn everything you can, especially shrinkage, how to measure it, how to minimize it, how different thicknesses in one piece are going to affect it.

There are no shortcuts to excellence. Ask any Olympic athlete, professional musician, or working potter.

Raj V

I agree with all replies.

Just stick to a good old wooden rolling pin and use wooden slats to use as level/even guides. I use slats of approx 5-6mm thickness.

As for reclaiming - well pugmills are great if u have a decent turnaround...but dont go wasting money on a vacuum one just yet.

Your biggest expense, at the moment, is going to be the kiln and wheel (if you're going to throw).

JM

Re Pugmills:

From my experience in servicing pottery equipment, all types of pugmill are a giant pain in the *** unless you are using them continuously.

Unless you have a large amount of clay to pug - either you are processing your own local clay, or you have lots of clay to recycle - you WILL spend a lot of time cleaning the pugmill of old dried clay so you can use it again. Either that, or you will be calling the service man to do it for you. I have been there.

Most commercially supplied clay doesn't normally need to be re-pugged before use.

Cheers

Dave

Dave, Clay drying out in pugmill? Tip.... try putting a plastic bag over the extrusion end and a wet rag with another plastic bag, over the top to contain moisture, into the plunger section. This should keep the clay moist for a good 6 months before any signs of drying out!

JM

Dave wrote: From my experience in servicing pottery equipment, all types of pugmill are a giant pain in the *** unless you are using them continuously.

Unless you have a large amount of clay to pug - either you are processing your own local clay, or you have lots of clay to recycle - you WILL spend a lot of time cleaning the pugmill of old dried clay so you can use it again.

Either that, or you will be calling the service man to do it for you. I have been there.

Most commercially supplied clay doesn't normally need to be re-pugged before use.

I agree with Marco's premise, however... when you do buy the equipment, I would buy the best you can afford.

Steve in Tampa, FL