Someone gave me a massive kiln. It stands about 4' high and is about 4' square. It has a kiln-sitter control. The outside is metal with a hinged lid mechanism. I have no idea how to use it. Please direct me to a website or something for instructions. I thought about selling it and buying a new, smaller one but have no idea of it's worth. A few of the fire bricks inside are cracked but it looks as though it could easily be repaired. Any advice? I make wheel-thrown pieces but I'm wondering if it wouldn't take me a long time to get enough pieces to be worth firing the thing up. Before I call an electrician to put in the required amperage, I'm wondering if I can ever figure out how to use it. Thanks.
Is there a manufacturer's name and model number on it? Is there a label that indicates the voltage needed and amperage? It's very possible that it will require 208 volts which is something you likely can't provide at a residence.
[While most circuits in a house (in the USA) will be 110 volts, most electrical services come in to the main panel (where the circuit-breakers are) at 220 volts. One just needs an electrician to set up a 220v circuit, with breaker, and furnish a receptacle in the place the kiln will be used, that can handle (usually) 220v at 50 amps. (If the kiln says 208v don't worry, it will just be a little hotter at 220v.) Your house may have a 220v dryer circuit that will work - ask your electrician if there's any doubt. The plug style should match that on the kiln. Wire must be used that is heavy enough to handle the load. It's not that big a deal, really.
Operating the kiln isn't too hard either. Start it with all the switches set to low, and run it that way for a few hours (or more depending on the thickness of the pieces inside) with the lid propped open a crack. After a while, close the lid and turn the dials to medium. Run it that way for a few more hours, then put the plugs into the peepholes and turn it up to high. Let it run until it shuts off, keeping an eye on a pack of guard cones set so as to be visible through the peephole (and don't get your eye too close to it). If the guard cones are bent over, shut it down manually.
The kiln-sitter is a simple mechanical device that releases a weighted arm that when released will swing down and push the "off" button outside the kiln when the cone inside melts. Typically, it has three pins, which should be regularly coated with kiln-wash to avoid sticking to the cone. A small pyrometric cone of the desired heat range is placed so as to rest on the two outside pins; the weighted arm is kept in position by a claw attached to the middle pin, which is held up by the cone. It should be adjusted so that if the cone melts a little, the claw holding up the arm will let it go. Watch your guard conepack (which uses the larger type of cones for visibility) the first few times you run it, to make sure it's working correctly.]
Andrew's post cover everything nicely, but if you want more about the kiln sitter, go to
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to download instructions for use and maintenance. Also my site,
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has some information about firing kilns which may also help.
If the bricks inside the kiln are only cracked and no pieces are missing, don't worry about it - all kiln bricks crack, and the cracks will close up when hot.
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