Pot lids that end up not fitting :-(

Hi everyone, and Happy New Year!!!

I have been off the computer since before Christmas (it was sitting on the dining room table!), and am glad to be back!

My problem is this:

I make globe-shapes that I fashion into "something" (eg. an onion) and then cut around the top to separate the bottom and lid. I work my little fingers off during the whole drying process in order to make sure the lid stays the same as the bottom and they will fit nicely together. I dry very slowly, in plastic, just opening for a little while each day to refresh the air, if you see what I mean.

The pot is then fired with the lid on, and most times, there is then little change in the fit, though there usually is a little bit that I then sandpaper to correct.

BUT... when I have glazed it all, I want the area where the lid and pot meets to be glazed as well (since it often shows a bit as the edges are a bit rounded). That means pot and lid have to be glaze-fired separately. And there's my problem... the lid often then warps and I end up with a sucky lid to what would have been a great pot!!!

Is there any way to avoid this other than not glazing the meeting surfaces and firing the lid on the pot? Maybe the whole bisque pot could be fired to stoneware before glazing, and then refired after fully glazed, even the meeting areas? Can the lid be fired on the pot, if there is glaze on the inside??? (the onion pot might be ok, as it has airing holes both in pot bottom and lid, but most pots I make have only the lid as a possible air out/inlet.

Random thoughts, hope somebody out there has a great sollution :-)

Marianne

Reply to
Bubbles
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Hi Bubbles, I think you have answered your own question "Maybe the whole bisque pot could be fired to stoneware before glazing, and then refired after fully glazed". Two thoughts occur though: You wouldn't be able to glaze the "meeting areas" as even if lid and pot were fired separately the thickness of glaze would cause a bad fit between the two. Also, unless you use brush on glazes, you might have to alter the way that you apply the glaze. This is similar to what happens in industry, they bisque high and glaze lower. I suggest that you might try warming the pots before glazing or adding some gum arabic to just the amount of glaze you need (adding gum arabic to a large batch of glaze can cause problems, the mix has a short longevity and can flocculate the glaze, making it thick and difficult to use) and then use it as a brush on (three or more coats). As the clay has already reached its maturing temperature it shouldn't be at such a risk of warping.

Reply to
plodder

Hi Marianne, I think that you have answered your own question "Maybe the whole bisque pot could be fired to stoneware before glazing, and then refired after fully glazed". If you fire the pots to the clays maturing temperature , with the lids in place, any possibility of warping should be reduced; the problem then becomes one of glaze application. If you glaze the edges that touch (lid to pot) they will no longer fit because of the glaze thickness. However, if you leave them clear and fire them separately they shouldn't warp any further. Glaze application is a bit tricky,as the pots are no longer porous, but you could try either warming the pots before glazing or you could add some gum arabic to just enough glaze (adding gum arabic can somtimes ruin a glaze, it flocculates and becomes thick and unmanagable so try a small amount first). Use it as a brush on and give the pot about three coats. hope this helps, Andy.

Reply to
plodder

Hi Marianne! Another option would be to glaze the entire pot and the entire lid. Then wipe off three small areas on the lid-seat, and do the same with the lid, making sure these small, glaze free spots all line up. Then make some small 'cookies' or wads of special clay (I prefer kaolin mixed with sand). Place a cookie on each of the three glaze free spots on the lid seat, and gently lay the lid on top, making sure the cookies are only touching the glaze free spots. Since the lid will be raised up off of the pot, it may still warp some, though I would guess not nearly as much as if it was fired completely on its own. Good luck!

Reply to
anna

Apologies for the double entry answer, when replying my posts were not showing at all! Andy

Reply to
plodder

Hi Andrew

I do brush on all my glazes - control-freak that I am! Hehe!

For now, I am just not glazing the join areas and firing with the lids in place. I also had a tip to fire the lids on a pile of sand, but then I would have to leave the whole inside of the lid unglazed.

Now that I have my own oven, I can experiment with firing high without glaze first and then refiring with glaze later. Trouble would be getting the glaze to "stick", but I have read that warming the piece up might solve that problem.

Marianne

Reply to
Bubbles

Hi Anna

That's a great idea! Thin little cookies. Will give that a try! Thanks!

Marianne

Reply to
Bubbles

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