Wood fired kiln approaching reality

Last weekend I acquired some 200 firebricks - the ones displayed here:

formatting link
They were going to be used in a fire-place but never made it, soI asked the uncle who had them whether he would mind parting withthem.

My original plan was to make a kiln along the lines of the one on this site:

formatting link
I have been here before asking for help and have been helpedconsiderably by those who have answered. Now - the bricks I have got are not shaped like common housebricks... they are shaped like 22x11x4cm or 8.7x4.3x1.6 inches.If I build the Brisbane 250 with these, I'll get a fire chaberand firebox of about 8 cm height or 3.2 inches high - not sogood.

If I switch height and width, apart from stability problems (trying to balance 25 courses on 1.6 inches base...) I figure I'll have problems with how thin the walls of the kiln will be.

Whatever happens, I don't have enough bricks to do anything right at the moment.

One idea is to stand the bricks up on their thin side, and then have another layer of bricks outside them to insulate. If I cannot get other bricks, does anyone know a reason why I should not use the stones which are sitting around in the garden? These are big limestone blocks, some of which are squared and have been used in the past as masonry. I don't think we'll be approaching lime-kiln hot (but I don't actually know how hot lime kilns get, although a first google search show 2,000F). Hmm answered my own question there probably.

OK - so buy more bricks is the way to go. If I run out of the fire bricks, does anyone have an idea where they should be put and where it is not 100% necessary - I realise the whole kiln can be made without firebricks, but since I have them, I would rather they be used where there is high temperature.

I have not tried anything like this ever, I have not got a very acute sense of planning in 3D (to the extent that following the detailed plan course by course on the above mentioned web site would have been a challenge), and I am not even sure whether I can find suitable blocks with which to make a model and see what I can do to maximise the benefit of the fire-brick gift.

I am willing to learn.

What would you all suggest?

Stelios

Reply to
Stelios Zacharias
Loading thread data ...

The bricks are a little wet in the photo. They were purchased to be used in building a fireplace. They are heavier duty than red house brick.

Thanks for your info, I have had a look through all the links you give in your sig, and am signing up to the woodkiln list.

Cheers, Stelios

Reply to
Stelios Zacharias

On 3/2/05 10:34 AM, Stelios Zacharias wrote: ...

Respond to wood.fire at somdahl.com Thank you Gene Somdahl

Reply to
E.R.Somdahl

i'd start by saying my local city kiln permit required 15 feet from chimney to nearest combustable item (a pine tree branch) but i also felt that was still too close so the nearby tree was trimmed quite far.

obviously nothing should be above the chimney but i think i'd feel more comfortable with the tree no closer then 25 feet in my case.

from photos i've seen a roaring woodfire has flames coming out the flew so a screen there might do very little.

also from my old camping-backpacking days be aware that some fires start from campfires over combustable materials. fires can start below ground, travel a ways underground and pop up & burn. i'd excavate the firebox area & make sure this area is truely fireproof. fill the area back up with rocks, dirt, sand. then bricklay the firebox.

have several garden hoses nearby when firing. maybe let some trickle around the area while firing.

see ya

steve

E.R.Somdahl wrote:

formatting link
> and I have been here before asking for help and have been helped> > considerably by those who have answered.> >> I plan to build a small kiln like the one above or the one at> in which to do wood and> salt/soda firings. The location will be in an area that is quite wooded.> How much clearance will I need to prevent fire problems? Would a mesh > screen at the top of the flue be sufficient to stop fly ash? Would it > help to put under a metal roof?>

Reply to
slgraber

I agree with Steve on all points, though I have to say that a fine stainless steel mesh cone on top of the chimney is a good idea as a spark arrester.

Steve Bath UK

In article , steve snipped-for-privacy@aol.com writes

Reply to
Steve Mills

You can see the little kiln I built to bisque work while I was doing my apprenticeship here:

formatting link
It is in action, bisquing. You can see that some of thebricks are still green with moss on them.

Lee In Mashiko, Japan

Reply to
Lee In Mashiko, Japan

InspirePoint website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.