Need directions on how to square a big block.

How big is big??? VBG There are 16.5 in. and 24.5 in. square rulers that can be used- those are the largest square rulers that I am aware of. You line up the square ruler with the outside edges and the diagonal lines of the block and then trim.... *if* that's the size your block is supposed to finish to. With any luck, your block size is close enough to accurate that you only need to "sliver trim". I've been known to re-design blocks so that their size is the same size as my square rulers so that the squaring up process is easier! I have square rulers in the two sizes mentioned plus 12.5, 9.5, 6.5, 4.5 and

2.5. It's VERY handy having all those rulers, but then I am known to be lazy!

If your block is not the same size as your square ruler- use a 12.5 in. square ruler and a 8.5 in. block as an example- then set the 0/0 corner (where the measurements begin on two sides of the ruler and 1 in. is the first inch measurement on those two sides of the ruler) in one corner of the block, the other opposite diagonal corner will be approximately at the 8.5 in. measurement marks depending on how accurate you've sewn the block, adjust the fabric block within the measurements on the ruler and trim the two sides of the block from that 0/0 corner of the ruler. Then put the 0/0 corner in the opposite diagonal corner, the 8.5 in. measurement on the already trimed corner and trim the other two sides.

You can line the block up on your cutting mat using the marked grid and trim with a regular 4X24 in. or whatever ruler you would use for cutting strips. You can make a full sized mock up of your block from freezer paper and lay it on top of the completed fabric block and trim around the edges with your long ruler.

Some things you need to be aware of when squaring up a block... you need to have a minimum of 1/8 in. at the tips of points like triangles to allow for the seam allowance; and if you have any diagonal seams going into the center of the corners, you need to trim to keep the seam exactly in the center of that corner; and you need to trim evenly- ie: if your block is 1/2 in. too wide, trim 1/4 in. from each side rather than 1/2 in. off one side.

Some blocks are much easier to square up then others- a log cabin with it's straight seams is easier than a feathered star with all it's points and seams running every which-a-way. An applique block needs to have the motif centered and any diagonals kept diagonal (a wreath or a leaf pattern may make a diagonal within the block, or a Celtic knot may have obvious diagonals in it). If all your bloclks are a bit large (or small) then you're better off to just work with them... cut your sachings and borders to fit the block rather than try to force the blocks to fit.

Good luck!

Leslie & The Furbabies in MO.

Help us answer you, Debra. How big is your big block? Is there something that must remain dead center? Are there points that just must not be cut off? Measure the sides of the block as it is now. No side can be any longer than the shortest one. Well, you knew that but you do have to keep it in mind. Every corner needs to measure 90°. You don't really need any high level measures to do the 90°. A sheet of paper or most rotary rulers can do that for you. Has your block become wobbly from pieces stretching? Do you have a border to attach that demands a specific measurement? We could give you a better answer if we knew where you are with the block and where you need to go. Help us help you. If all else fails, we'll go wake up our Pat on her hill. Polly

18 inches, and my biggest square-up ruler is 12.5. No points to worry about, and the only diagonal is an oddball one that isn't 45 degrees. I've decided to try the "line it up on the cutting mat" method. I made a mistake trimming the first one so I'll have to trim it again. I used painter's tape to mark each corner so I won't lop off too much on any side by accident again, and marked where the diagonal seam should end on both sides of the square. The blocks should have been 18.5 inches, but my mat only has lines every inch and my accident means I'll have to lose a little on all the blocks to match up again. Lucky for me the simplicity of the block allows me to just trim them down without having to make a new block.

Thanks for the tips, and I didn't know there were such big square up rulers out there. I'll be on the look out for the big ones. I knew there was a reason I was using the 6.5 and 12.5 to cut all my applique backgrounds.

Thanks again. Debra in VA See my quilts at

I'm guessing it's a block bigger than your square up ruler??? I usually find a straight line that I want straight to use that will work from either direction. Or a center point....

Jan RCTQ Coffee Diva

I'm guessing it's a block bigger than your square up ruler??? I usually find a straight line that I want straight to use that will work from either direction. Or a center point....

Jan RCTQ Coffee Diva

18 inches, and my biggest square-up ruler is 12.5. No points to worry about, and the only diagonal is an oddball one that isn't centered or 45 degrees.

I decided to try the "line it up on the cutting mat" method. Then I made a mistake trimming the first one so I'll have to trim it again. Lucky for me the simplicity of the block allows me to just trim them down without having to make a new block. I've put painter's tape on the mat to mark each corner so I won't lop off too much on any side by accident again, and marked where the diagonal seam should end on both sides of the square so they will be trimmed all the same way. The blocks should have been 18.5 inches, but my mat only has lines every inch, and my accident means I'll have to lose a little on all the blocks to match up again anyway. The four blocks I have get joined into one mega block.

Is 35 inches square big enough for a baby quilt? Or should I add a border?

Debra in VA See my quilts at

Polly and other posted good tips. You could also fold the block in quarters, measure what 1/4 size is supposed to be, and square up the edges.

Someone on some list once wrote that she went to the hardware store and had plexiglass cut to specific sizes (such as 18"). That would work if you consistently make blocks of a certain size.

Nann

Debra, I really like to make baby quilts a little larger than 35" square. Yes. Do add a border or two or three. Unless you're in the mood, the borders don't have to be intricate productions - simply straight strips will do just fine. If you can, cut them on the straight of the fabric along the selvedge edge. That will give you an outside edge that will behave. And try to hold your total square measurement under about 43". Then you won't have to piece the backing. IMHO, of course. Polly

"Debra" Is 35 inches square big enough for a baby quilt? Or should I add a

Hmm. I think that will require some piecing as I have very little of the turtles or the dots on blue prints. Makes me glad I cut the fabric with as little waste as possible so I have decent chunks left. I'll have to ponder the borders a bit before cutting though. Debra in VA See my quilts at

I like the idea of plexiglass! I used leftover vinyl flooring once, and drew the cutting lines on the back with a ballpoint pen after measuring with yard sticks and making sure of corners with a t- square.

Debra, if you decide to invest in something to square up future blocks or quilts, you might want to think about getting a laser level square. It's a *wonderful* invention! Men think it's for them, but we know different. LOL! Anyway, it "shoots" two lines (at 90?) from itself so you can see where your block/quilt is "off" and fix it by lining up your ruler and cutting. I love mine -- I'm thinking it was Kathy A. who mentioned it on this list? Whoever it was, thanks again!

can you not just use your long ruler, you'd have to position it 4 times to do a full side and the width of the ruler, but with an uncomplicated block which doesn't cause positioning issues, that should work ok.

Anne

One expert I saw on Simply Quilts a while ago said that if you measured, cut, and sewed carefully then you shouldn't trim off anything but the dog ears and dangly threads. If the finished quilt is not the same measurements it should be then you should block it.

#1 Find a place big enough and flat enough and empty enough to spread out the quilt.

#2 Lay out a clean surface- like a plastic tablecloth if you can get one big enough, or a big sheet. Tape that down smooth & secure, then mark the size & shape the quilt SHOULD be- marking the center of each side and end also(using permanent Guaranteed not to run marker-then still test it first), pencil, or painters tape-the easy release blue stuff-Outside the lines for your edges Not Inside. Don't rely on the sheet or tablecloth to be straight, many aren't.

#3 spread out your quilt- quilt top- or block- and match corners to the drawn corners and midpoints to the marked midpoints. Mist the whole thing with water and gently stretch or ease in the quilt to match the marked outline. Work until the center is flat, too. Steam may be needed.

#4 Let dry overnight or longer until totally dry before unpinning.

The expert said she does this at least twice with her quilts, once before putting any borders on, and again after it's quilted, when she allows some shrinkage due to the quilting but still wants the shape to be true with square corners and no ripples at the edges. If the quilt won't do that she adds quilting to areas that are too big to draw it up more, or adds quilting that runs in a different direction,

No, I have never done this, I can't get past #1 in my house.

Jane in NE Ohio

Outside of a dog, a book is (wo)man's best friend. Inside of a dog, it's too dark to read.

In a perfect world, this would be wonderful- having to trim just dog ears and threads! Alas, it doesn't turn out that way very often- we (the average and the majority of quilters) need to get creative with our blocks to make it all work out and the assembly to proceed as smoothly and easily and painlessly as possible. So, we "un-experts" have to learn to work with what we have produced. Blocking each block is a lovely idea in theory, but who of us has the floor space, time, patience or inclination? I think more of a person who can help us work with what we made than any expert who says we should do things that are beyond what a "normal" everyday quilter has the ability to produce. When I can sell one of my quilts for five figures and more, then I will happily block every step of the way. Until then..... phooey! VBG

Leslie & The Furbabies > One expert I saw on Simply Quilts a while ago said that if you measured,

messagenews: snipped-for-privacy@64g2000cwx.googlegroups.com...

Love that last line, Jane. I doubt I'd get past #1 for a whole quilt too. That expert is way too much a perfectionist for the type of quilts I make. Perhaps someone who makes heirlooms or show quilts would go that far, but not I.

I did put painter's tape on my cutting mat to help me trim the blocks straight. It worked like a charm. Joining the four trimmed blocks into a top was a marvel. I will be making my quilt sandwich this evening. Debra in VA See my quilts at