Wimpy SM?

My Bernina 1008, which I've only used for about 2 weeks (bought 3 years ago) seems to get the needle out of line really easily; consequently I'm breaking needles at a record rate. She'll just stop sometimes at 4 layers of cotton (not even denim); when I coax her through, the needle is out of line, bumps against the strike plate and then of course, eventually breaks. Same thing happens if the needle nudges a pin while sewing. If I don't get the reverse lever up ALL the way she gets grumpy, too. My Bernie 1000 isn't nearly so temperamental but she's out of line at the moment too (wonder if there's a connection? they do have one thing in common: me! ;-(

Does this sound typical? Should I trade her in for a tougher machine? Life is too short to have to get a hanky every time my delicate machine thinks about sniffling. I reread the recent thread about SM's, and Pfaffs seemed to win the workhorse award, but are there others y'all recommend? I'm not looking for anything fancy--just something that will easily sew buttonholes and MQ big, sometimes heavy, quilts.

TIA

Dogmom

Reply to
dogmom
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Are you sure that your needle is screwed in tight? If not, it will go wonking on you.

DM

Reply to
Echo's

If your Bernie halts at a multiple thickness, maybe you can ease up on the presser foot pressure. I keep mine set pretty tight but that's because I frequently sew fabrics like batiste and silk. I'm thinking you SM is probably not 'out-of-line' but perhaps the needle is bent or blunt. Try needles that are very sharp and also strong. FWIW, it seems like Bernina does not recommend stitching over pins. Mine certainly don't appreciate it. Is it at all possible for you to pay a visit *with* your SM to a Bernina dealer? I would call ahead and see when was a good time for them to give you some real help. And, finally, yes. You just might be happier with a different SM. It seems like our Kate D sews at full speed and over pins - but she is a Viking person. I mentioned recently that I'd like to have a Pfaff 130 - which will sew Anything - but that would put me as an easy target for hemming everybody's jeans. Not a job I willingly would take on. HTH. Polly

Reply to
Polly Esther

Thanks, Polly--I didn't even realize I could adjust the presser foot pressure! I'll try that. I have been changing needles regularly, using Schmetz universal. I do plan a trip to the SM store, and thanks for the tip about Vikings. As for hemming others' pants--if they're willing to come over, I'll teach them how to do it themselves! So far, no takers ;-)

Reply to
dogmom

Double check the needle for correct placement (is it all the way in and straight) and the needle screw for tightness. If it is loose or installed not quite right the needle will go wonky and look like it is totally out of line. Debra in VA See my quilts at

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Reply to
Debra

Uh-oh! You said the magic word - 'universal'. If you are going through woven fabrics to any depth, you might really need a sharp needle. I use sharp needles (often very fine jeans needles ) because their strength and sharpness offers little or no resistance. Universal needles have a slightly rounded tip, so that they do not snag on knit fabrics - universal = can sew woven and knit fabrics. They are really not best for any stage of P&Q. . In message , dogmom writes

Reply to
Patti

Then, there's this. The problem may be the operator. I have a dear friend who sews with me often and she breaks needles about 50 to my one or none, whether she's brought her own fine new Viking here or is using one of my Berninas. She stitches like the hounds of Hell are nipping at her heels. I hope one day that she will realize that she can get more done if she eases up some instead of breaking needles and having to replace them and clean up whatever mess that has caused. You may have noticed that I can stand on either side of just about any question; it's the Libra in me. =) Polly

Reply to
Polly Esther

None of the Elna's that I have had over the last 40 years have balked at tough stuff. If you do decide to change brands, you might consider Elna.

Julia > My Bernina 1008, which I've only used for about 2 weeks (bought 3 years ago)

Reply to
Julia in MN

A couple of points,

  1. If you have hit a pin, or the throat plate hard you may have damaged the needle bar and/or the timing. Either of which could cause problems. (And one of the major reasons for not sewing over pins. )

  1. If the needle is screwed in *too* tightly, it is out of line. The needle should be in straight, when you over tighten the screw it pushes the needle off straight and can cause the problems you mention.

  2. Patti already mentioned using sharp as opposed to universal needles. This may help on some machines.

  1. You don't say, but is this mostly a problem at seams? If so, you may need a "hump jumper", a gadget that helps keep the pressure foot level. When you approach a seam, especially a heavy one, there is a change in the angle of the pressure foot. If the toe (or heel) of the foot is too high it can cause problems with the way the fabric feeds through the machine. If the needle catches the top layer of fabric before the end of the "move" forward then the needle can bend/break because of that.

  2. There may also be a problem of some sort with the needle bar assembly. I had a similar problem that was easily fixed. And one that entailed a complete replacement of the needle bar assembly prompting the comment that "You sew too much" from the tech.

A trip to the service center, and serious questions to the tech might help.

Pati, in Phx

dogmom wrote:

Reply to
Pati Cook

Whereas, I on the other hand ... ... >gg< . In message , Polly Esther writes

Reply to
Patti

If you truly want to trade-in your machine, then I'd suggest the Janome line- which is moderately priced compared to some of the other 'big name' sewing machines. There are two models that have the larger throat area which makes it sooooooo much easier to get a large quilt under it for MQing. I believe the model number for a fairly basic machine with the larger space is the 1600- around $1,000+. I have the 6600 (around $1600+) which is fancier with a LOT of options for the quilter- knee lift, built-in walking foot, great thread holder, drop feed-dogs, and much more that I can't even think of right now. (I haven't been sewing due to my hip surgery, so I forget all the reasons I love it so much!) It truly is specifically made with the quilter in mind! You would not believe what a difference those extra inches in the throat area make! It is WONDERFUL! My small town only has one sm dealer and that's Janome, so that's what I've sewn with for the past 19 years. I have no desire to change brands- I'm perfectly happy with them. Good luck with whatever you do- having a temperamental sm is no fun!

Leslie & The Furbabies in MO.

Reply to
Leslie & The Furbabies in MO.

Golly, Leslie. You got so busy with the charms of the Janome that you didn't mention how they feel about stitching over pins; a Bernina will - but you need to be rather sneaky about it. Polly

Reply to
Polly Esther

Shoot, I'm the one who doesn't get it why people work so hard to pin everything exactly in place and then pull out the pins before they sew the matched up area??? I sew slowly over pins or even turn the hand wheel- ALWAYS. (I have been known to baste over tricky areas, check my matches and then re-sew if every thing looks okay.) And- knock on wood- I have been lucky so far... when I manage to hit a pin, I turn off the sm and turn it back on again. So far it has always 'reset' itself - or something???- but it's been okay. YMMV--- I will NOT recommend this to anyone else! I'm lazy- I want to do things right the first time..... VBG

Leslie & The Furbabies in MO.

Reply to
Leslie & The Furbabies in MO.

On Jul 19, 9:37 am, "Polly Esther" wrote:

I have a Bernina 1008 that I use for everything. Thick and thin sandwiches of fabric of mostly cotton. Some quite thick and I have never had that happen. If you have set the needle with the flat side to the rear and it is a sharp needle of appropriate size for the fabric, and it is screwed in so that it holds the needle firmly and it still does what you state, then I think it is time to take it in and have it serviced. If it is a new machine, and it is under warranty, it should not cost you anything other than the inconvenience. It is a mechanical machine and there are few things that could go wrong if everything is set up according to specs. I think it would be helpful if you could demonstrate to the service people exactly what you mean and duplicate the problem. Then they would know exactly what to look for. It is kind of like taking your car to the repair shop and saying it makes a funny noise, rather than taking the mechanic out for a drive and demonstrating what you mean by funny noise. That will save them having to spend a lot of time trying to reproduce the funny noise, or bent needle in your case. As to trading for a fancier machine. The feet for the 1008 that you have are only used on that and other older design machines. If you have acquired a large selection of accessory feet they will not work on the newer computerized machines. If you only have the snap on feet that came with the machine originally, then it doesn't make any difference as those feet are not as good as the accessory feet that are available for that model, and you would be getting the newer style of feet with the newer machine of computerized design. The next full size machine is the 430 Aurora and it is the same size as the one you have. They make a machine line called Activa but it doesn't have as large an opening for you to feed the fabric through while sewing so it limits the size of quilt you can comfortably work with. If you are sewing clothes then it will work fine as you don't try to fit large amounts of fabric through the harp opening, like you do with bed sized quilts. If you only do small wall hangings then that line might work for you. The only thing that might make a difference is the cost of the Aurora is considerably more than the 1008 but it has a lot more bells and whistles and is capable of using an embroidery unit and, I think it takes the BSR stitch regulator for free motion quilting. I think, personally, that I would try to find out what is going on with the 1008 as I concider mine more than fine enough for most quilting that I have to do and I have a more costly computerized Bernina that I seldom use as I like the simplicity of the 1008. Other people love their computerized machines so I think it all depends on the persons viewpoint.

Good luck,

John

Reply to
John

Well, for once I read through the messages before replying. I also jumped at the "universal" comment. I don't even own any universal needles anymore. I use denim needles, or microtex for most of my quilting ventures.

Reply to
KJ

Maybe I just read right over if someone else mentioned this, but did you check the size needle you are using? If you are sewing a lot of layers, maybe you should use a bigger needle---maybe one for jeans, or at least a size 14.. HTH Barbara in SC but now in FL

"dogmom" ..

Reply to
Bobbie Sews More

Try a sharp tip... microtex, jeans, quilting, topstitch, embroidery... better for wovens than universals, which are "light ball" points.

Reply to
Kay Lancaster

You might also be pulling on the fabric as you're working on getting the needle through (or the weight is pulling on the fabric) -- forcing the needle a bit sideways and then breaking it. If you're sewing on a portable machine on a table, try building up a surface around your machine with books or such, and then putting a vinyl tablecloth over it to help reduce friction between fabric and table.

Reply to
Kay Lancaster

I also sew hammer down/full speed ahead over pins. I have Viking machines but I'm not sure it's the Viking. I took a sewing class at my dealer's and was zooming along pinned seams and heard the sharp intake of breath sucking through the teeth of my instructor. "OMG!! NO, NO, NO!!" Well, I've been sewing like that since I started sewing on a 1950 straight stitch Singer. I've sewn like that on other machines as well. I don't have time to stop or slow down to remove the pins...VARRRRRRRROOM! I watched others in that class try sewing up a seam with pins and they dinged the pins and broke needles. I never seem to hit them. I think it's the "no fear factor" or maybe how you hold your mouth when you're zooming along. Maybe it's the speed you sew. Who knows.

Warning: This particular technique does *NOT* work when using a serger :(

Val

Reply to
Val

Good point, Debra. The few times I've had trouble with a needle breaking was when I hadn't pushed it up all the way or if the screw wasn't tightened down firmly to hold it. Since I am now developing my grandmother's hands with arthritis; pinching to hold the needle to push it up and hold it there while I tighten the screw it more difficult. I have a little needle holder thing I can set the needle in and then hold that to set the needle properly to screw it down. That pinching motion in my left hand (between thumb and finger) just doesn't work so well anymore....and it's painful.

If you have a habit of pulling or tugging the fabric as it goes along instead of letting your machine do that work you can pull the needle out of whack so it bends and breaks, too. If you have to pull or tug on the fabric to get it moving it could be the presser foot needs some adjustment.

Val

Reply to
Val

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