1. Home
  2. Sewing Discussions
  3. Adjusting pattern sizing

Adjusting pattern sizing

I am a reasonably good dressmaker, but have some difficulties in sorting out patterns for myself. I am 5 ft tall and weigh 9 stone. I have a 36" bust ( and I am high-busted and short-waisted) and my waist measurement is NOW only about one inch less than my hips! Are you getting a picture? I call my shape a busty tube! More or less straight up and down. I have good thighs and legs though and a small seat.

I find that because of my largish bust size relative to my height and shape, I usually have to use about 2 sizes less for the back and I need 2-3 sizes less for pants (except for the waist). I don't have too much problem with pants because I simply take the measurement straight up from the widest hip point and then either dart or elasticize the waist - and sometimes a bit of both.

Some years ago I had a foundation pattern made to fit me. I have a dummy that is roughly my shape (give or take larger seat and a slightly lower bust) and I can manage most things with it. My basic foundation blocks comprise a foundation top front and top back, foundation sleeves and pants. It is still more or less accurate. I simply need some help or advice as to how to deal with this problem of a much larger front measurement than the back for tops, jackets, dresses. I don't always find what I want in a multi-size pattern.

There is a book I have seen advertised by Taunton Press (publishers of Threads) by Sandra Betzina which purports to cover the problems I seem to be having. Can anyone in this group analyse/recommend or whatever? this book?

I'd appreciate feedback - because I am now onto my third toile for a top and don't feel I'm making much progress here.

TigsNona

Reply to
Tigsnona
Loading thread data ...

Well, I solved the problem by buying pattern drafting software

formatting link
NAYY), because it was SOOOOOO difficult to keep altering patterns, so I am not going to be of much assistance if your efforts to manually draft a pattern, but if you want a basic bodice re-drafted, you can get customized directions here:

formatting link
(follow the instructions on the dialogue window -- a thoughtful addition by the web site owner to protect the privacy of people's dimensions -- to get into the site)

Reply to
Melinda Meahan - take out TRAS

I have that book, and it's very goo. Hit the URL in my sig and look at my book list. there are a couple reviewed there (I don't sell the, just pass on my thoughts).

Reply to
Kate Dicey

Reply to
Jeanette

I have Sandra's book which is very good.I also sent for -Fitting Finesse by Nancy Zieman.Try nancysnotions.com-do a search for-Fitting Finesse book - click to page 2-19.98 is the price(invaluable ) it has every problem you can think of and how to handle it.. There is a video at the same price but I did not think it necessary,that would be up to you...You will use the book often. Hope it helps...Happy sewing

Tigsn> I am a reasonably good dressmaker, but have some difficulties in

Reply to
Jeanette

Thank you for your help. I could not access

formatting link
because it seems to be an American ISP of some sort. If you have the bodice instructions on a separate file, perhaps you could send it to my email address as an attachment please? My email is: snipped-for-privacy@emailaccount.com

Thank you very much TigsNona

Reply to
Tigsnona

Sorry; it's a web site where you plunk in your measurements and it gives you the instructions.

Reply to
Melinda Meahan - take out TRAS

InspirePoint website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.