altering a folkwear pattern

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This is more of a long ramble than an actual question.
I am going to make the Vietnamese Ao Dai pattern from Folkwear.
It is a close fitting top with raglan sleeves. The sleeve head is shaped
with a long dart running down the length of the sleeve from the neck to
just over the shoulder point.
As usual with most patterns, I am going to have to increase the diameter
of the close-fitting sleeve to fit my large arms. The sleeve pattern
measures 14.5 inches and I need it to be at least 16 inches.
Has anyone out there made up this pattern? I wish I had the ability to
post a sketch of the sleeve pattern! It would make this question much
What I believe will work is to split the sleeve along the grain line in
two places, on either side of the centerline of the sleeve. This will
have the effect of increasing the diameter of the sleeve, lengthening
the dart in the sleeve, but not changing the length of the edge that
attaches to the body of the garment. It will also not affect the size of
the neck opening.
I think it will work, of course I'll make a muslin to check the fit.

liz young

Re: altering a folkwear pattern
On Sat, 02 Aug 2003 05:12:56 GMT, Elizabeth Young wrote:

Quoted text here. Click to load it

Looking at the pattern, I wonder if you might like more depth in the
armhole anyway. Vietnamese women are usually small-busted, with thin arms,
and this style is designed for that shape - you don't want it ending up too
tight across the bust. When I draft a sleeve, I usually go for 4 inches of
ease around the bicep, BTW.

Re this and your other question, have you seen Connie Amaden Crawford's
patterns? Someone - Stefanie I think - pointed me in their direction
because they're based on draping, in which Crawford is very skilled. Kay
Lancaster told me that they're properly graded for larger-size women, to
keep all the shoulder seams, etc, in just the right place - ie they treat a
heavier body as a body with more flesh on it, not a body whose bones are
growing exponentially.

You can see them at and don't let the pictures put
you off.

:) Trish

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