basic sewing supplies for beginner?

I am very new to machine sewing. Just got a used machine a couple weeks ago. I have done repairs by hand, so I so have some threads, regular needles, tape measure, pins, that kind of thing.

I would like to put together a kit for what I should have for upcoming projects. I will be doing repairs, hemming, modifying some clothes to fit better, and some projects such as costumes, Christmas stockings, etc.

My sister used to sew a lot, but quit a long time ago. I figured she would be upset that I am starting up one of her former hobbies. This has happened in the past with photography and horseback riding. She seemed irritated at first and then very friendly as she examined my machine. She is going to get her portable machine out and come over to help teach me. I don't know if she is honestly happy, or looking to compete. She is naturally better at this kind of thing than I am, but I tend to study and catch up.

We went to the store the other day, and she recommended a seam ripper, a wrist holder for pins, and a fabric pencil/eraser kit. I asked about cheap fabric remnants and a couple other things, and she said she would give them to me free and not to buy them. I thought we were going to get together today, but I haven't heard from her, so I guess I need to go ahead and get these myself.

On the way to the store, I said I wanted to get some needles as it came with one in it and one spare in a package. She said I should be fine with 2 needles. No need for new ones. The book I am reading said a needle is only good for a few projects, and that bad stitches are often a result of an old needle. I have no idea how much the current needle has been used, so I figured I would use it to practice a little and then change it. Most of my material will be lightweight stuff like pillow cases, t-shirts, etc. I would like to work with some light denim shirts and hem some heavier denim jeans.

At the store, there was a clearance sale on machine needles. 4 and 5 packs for 25 cents each. The two needle sizes are 90/14 and 75/11. I asked which she would recommend and what they are for, and she told me she didn't know anything about needles, just used the same ones all the time.

So, I have somebody who wants to teach me, but I am very doubtful about the information. She admits she quit because my dad asked her to hem his jeans. This was over 10 years ago. I know she made some nice things back when she was in high school. She made a prom dress that I loved. And my favorite pair of jeans was a pair she made. I don't want to question her or make her feel like I am doubting her, but I would feel a whole better getting advice from people who actually do a lot of sewing currently and actually know the equipment well.

Can you give me suggestions for what kinds of things you find yourself needing a lot?

Which types of thread you prefer, which needles are most useful?

I did pick up a magnet for dropped pins.

Do you need oil for the sewing machine? Is it a special kind?

Thanks for helping out a beginner :)

Meghan & the Zoo Crew

Reply to
friesian
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Pop over to my web site and look in The Learning Zone: there you will find MY list of essential sewing stuff. :) I sew professionally, and I teach sewing to total beginners, so the list is fairly well refined. URL in my sig at the bottom of this missive...

Ignore her attitude, whichever it is. Accept the friendly stuff, blow a gentle breeze on the rest. My older sister (VERY bright academically!) took up sewing later than I did (I was seven, she was in her early 30's before she really got the bug!). I was delighted, and she still comes to me for 'lessons' and advice some 20 years later. She was once also a teacher. She says @yes, Miss' in dutiful tones when I tell her sewing stuff. We have a giggle. :)

I hate those wrist holders! I just park a few magnetic pin holders about the sewing room...

GET THOSE NEEDLES! One 'every few projects' is way too few! New needle after 5 to 8 hours sewing is MUCH better, and yes, different needles for different fabrics/processes...

Silly woman! The 90/14's are thicker, and will be better for thicker fabrics, the 75/11 are for finer fabrics. Standard 'Universal 80's are the bog standard does most things needle for woven fabrics.

See my list! Others here will have their favourite things...

I use cotton thread for cotton and wool stuff, polyester for artificial fibres and mixtures of wool/cotton and polyester, and silk for silk fabrics. You'll need good quality threads: Mettler, Guttermann, and YLI are names to look out for. Here in the UK I like Empress Mills as well, and Sylco for cotton thread, but I hate Drima with a passion!

I buy needles in packs of 100! The ones I buy most of are Universal (mean they are for WOVEN fabrics, not knits) 70's, 80's and 90's. You may not need to buy bulk packs. I do sew for others, after all, and have several machines set up and running at any one time. Later on when you get to sewing knit fabrics, you'll need needles designed for those fabrics. If you are going to sew jeans or heavier fabrics, I suggest getting jeans needles, which are designed for the heavy, tight weave of denim.

Good move! :)

Yes - sewing machine oil! The local sewing machine shop will have it. Check in the machine manual for oiling points and frequency. Some modern machines don't get oiled by the user, but will need an annual service where certain points get oiled by the service engineer.

You are very welcome! :)

Who's in the zoo? I only have two cats at the moment. Right now they are snuggled up together in a pile of quilts...

Reply to
Kate Dicey

Thanks! I see I need to get more than one pair of scissors. And probably something to keep my things in so that they don't disappear or get mistaken for regular scissors.

I bought some small pins, but I was told to get small ones, so I will get some longer ones too.

What is a point turner?

I have one of the tomato things, but she said she really liked the wrist thingy. I may just leave them on the magnetic wand or in the plastic tub. I guess I will see what I find works best for me.

I have Thursday off, so I will go back and pick up some more supplies. I bought 4 packages of the 70 and 2 packages of the 90. They had a bunch more. I was looking at the other needles there, and I had no idea what to buy. I should have asked here before we went, but I assumed she would know. (I know, never assume)

What is the difference between machine needles and ballpoint needles?

Thanks. I definitely need to get thread. My mom's sewing machine is packed away, who knows where. My sister said she would give me some, but I don't know when that will be.

My personal crew is a dog and 2 1/2 cats.

Jenny - 13 year old sheltie Kira - 12 year old Balinese Jay Jay - 3ish Ragdoll

and the half - Chase - 6 year old Siamese mix. He belongs to my nephew, but he thinks he is mine. And I get the feeding and kitty litter duties. So, I count him as half mine :)

You can see a photo here of the whole crew. I rent the basement, so my mom has a sheltie and a Siamese cat as well as 7 turtles. So, I consider them as part of the household crew.

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is the angel. He died in May of 2005 (10 days before his 19thbirthday), and this was my Christmas card from last year. He fit wellas the angel. The orange cat is my sister's. They live next door, and Ihad an empty shelf to fill, so I borrowed him for the shot. My sheltieis the one on the right. Thanks again for your advice. I hope to pick up more goodies on Thursday.

Reply to
friesian

I'm a pin freak! I have many different sorts, but the ones I use most and which are good for most purposes are the Prym extra long, extra fine sort. Good quality, long enough to stay in thick fabrics and fine enough not to leave big holes in fine fabrics. I buy them in boxes of

250g! But then I do give lots away when teaching...

A pokey thing for helping to turn the points/corners of garments (bits like collars) out with a nice sharp point. Mine is a polished piece of cow bone: very hard and smooth. This bamboo one is nice, too:

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I have one of the tomato things, but she said she really liked the> wrist thingy. I may just leave them on the magnetic wand or in the> plastic tub. I guess I will see what I find works best for me. Good move! :)

Something labelled 'machine needles' usually means Universal point needles. Ballpoint, Jersey, and Stretch needles are all for knit fabrics rather than woven fabrics. Stretch are for Lycra/elastane enhanced fabrics like swimsuit fabric, and sewing elastic.

Use new thread if you don't know the age of the old stuff: thread goes brittle with age.

Oh, they're lovely! :) Mine are on my web site. They have their own gallery in the Resources section, but also turn up in other places... Notably in the middle of a pile of sewing! Keeping their little furry hackles of the customer stuff can be interesting...

Happy shopping!

Reply to
Kate Dicey

Do you have any books? The readers digest Complete Guide to Sewing is very good. The older editions can be picked up fairly cheap 2nd hand and have lots of info. Singer also do A Beginners Guide to Sewing and Sewing Essentials which I believe are very good. (I don't have these 2 books, but do have some other Singer books which are great) You could try your local library first and see what they have available or can order in from another library.

this site has lots of links to sewing related stuff

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halfway down the page are some links to info about needles and basic machine sewing.

Get to know your machine. Read the manual, clean the machine thoroughly, oil it if needed and learn the stitches it can do. A good machine, looked after, can be your friend for a very long time :-) Change your needle frequently and make sure you use an appropriate needle for the fabric. Don't skimp on thread. Buy good quality and be very wary of using old thread. It deteriorates over time.

come back when you need help and to let us know how you are going

chris :-)

Reply to
chris

Hi Meghan. Welcome aboard. You've already got some good advice, but I'll add a few things. First, buy thread as you need it, i.e. buy matching thread when you buy fabric. Pins: I like either glass head ones in various lengths or flower head ones for open knits or lace. Do NOT pin your pattern to your fabric - it distorts it. I have a few sets of ceramic pattern weights, but you can use whatever you have around - tuna cans, heavy cutlery, candlesticks (unlit!!!), heavy washers from the hardware store - whatever will hold the pattern in place while you cut it out.

Machine needles. What you have already bought should keep you going for a while, and, again, buy specialty ones when you buy the fabric. You need ballpoints for knit fabrics, and special ones for elastics. Remember, when "they" say to change needles every 8 hours, that means every 8 hours the machine is actually running. I find I spend much more time laying out, cutting, pinning, pressing etc. than I do actually running the machine. In fact, that takes less time than any other sewing process for me. Mind you, people like Kate may sometimes spend two or three hours at a stretch running the machine with pedal to the metal, but it is unlikely for those who only sew for ourselves.

You mentioned you tend to study up on things, so you should go to your local free public library and look at ALL of the various sewing books. Some of them will "speak" to you, and others won't. Buy the one that is written in YOUR mode.

Buying some remnants to practice on might be an idea, but the ones I have seen lately are a shocking price for leftovers. You might want to stop by a thrift store and see what they have, I have often found lovely silk or top quality wool skirts or dresses with lots of fabric in them, just right for playing with and very cheap. Also, ask around. You and your family and friends might have discarded but still good clothes, and if you have any friends who used to sew they might be happy to pass on fabric leftovers.

Good luck, and keep coming back to tell us how you are doing.

Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.

Reply to
Olwyn Mary

The most common "cure" for sewing machine trouhles is to replace the current needle with a nice new one of the right size and type. Works many, many, many times. Much better than wanting to throw the machine across the room.

You've got a couple of issues with buying needles:

1) Is it the right type for the machine? Most manufactured since the 1950s take a "needle system" called 130/705 H Some Singer machines require a slightly different, Singer brand needle to work correctly. Schmetz and Organ and Klasse are good brands for most machines. Some of the needles that are blister packed under names like Dritz or such are not wonderful at times. 2) Needle size: sizes run from about 8 through 16 in one sizing system and 60 through 120 in another. Needles are typically sold with both designations, like your 90/14 and 75/11. In both designations, smaller numbers are skinnier needles, and used on lighter weight fabrics. I'd use the 75s you've got on anything up to lightweight pants fabric, and the 90's on everything heavier than medium weight twill. 3) Needle points. If your sister hasn't sewn for many, many years, she may come from an era when there was only one needle point commonly available, the "sharp", meant for wovens. With the introduction of double knits in the late 1960's, the "ball point" became available for sewing knits -- it has a slightly rounded tip, and slides between the yarns instead of piercing them like a sharp will. The Universal needles are sort of a cross between the two, and will work on most fabrics -- though if you're having trouble with a needle that should be the right size for the job, try another point style. Microtex needles in particular (very sharp points) tend to be problem solvers for me, as I sew a lot of lightweight closely woven fabrics that want to pucker.

Generally, you want the smallest needle (smallest hole!) that will sew your fabric. More info here:

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Buy good thread -- not fuzzy or slubby thread. The three spools for a buck brands are generally useful only for hand basting, or for taking all the thread off and giving the empty spool to the cat as a toy. See:
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brand and type choices get to be almost religious. I, for instance,can't stand the cotton-wrapped polyester threads like Dual Duty, considering them the worst of both the cotton and poly thread world.You'll find folks that will only sew with cotton thread. You'll findfolks who sew almost everything with polyester. You'll find folkswho love silk thread for machine stitching (oh my aching wallet!),you'll find folks who use serger thread (which tends to be slubbierand more prone to breaking than sewing machine thread). You'll findfolks who try to use hand quilting thread in machines (it gums upthe tensions) or rayon embroidery thread for seams (it's prettyweak) or heavy duty nylon upholstery thread types in home machines(it's too heavy for most home machines) or... or...My suggestion is that you try either a good quality cotton ora good quality spun polyester sewing machine thread first, and thengo on from there.) The "all purpose" sizes (not lingerie or topstitchingor buttonhole sizes) are the usual choices for homemachine work, and work pretty well for almost everything.Be sure to read this article:
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are three notions I'd add to your supply, as a beginner:1) a small pair of scissors or a thread clipper, to keep at the machine Doesn't have to be great quality, but it does have to clip a single thread nicely.2) a good iron that gets hot (the little travel jobbies are rarely good for sewing projects) If you have to buy new, the Black and Decker Classic, at about $25, is not a bad choice.3) a roll of Wash-a-way Wonder Tape:
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-- Collins product, findable at most fabric stores; make sure it says wash away. When you get into sewing in a big way, you'll probably want a really good pair of scissors for fabric cutting, and/or a rotary cutter and mat. My choice for the first among the budget brands is Fiskars, though for a few bucks more you can have Kai, my favorite among all the brands I've tried, including some very expensive ones. You want the longest bladed bent trimmers/dressmakers you can comfortably work with. Mine are the N5250s:
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rotary cutters, I prefer the Martelli brand. FWIW. Enjoy!

Kay

Reply to
Kay Lancaster

I believe I read here once buying cotton sheets at a thrift store gives lots of fabric to practice your sewing skills and I started doing that. I use old ones for muslins, a trial run to see if the pattern is suitable for me. Those outfits are always good for housecleaning, even if I'd never wear that pattern out in public. I also make up a muslin for my almost 8YO DGD, send it to her; she lives in SC and I'm in Houston. Her Mom tries it on her, then tells me any adjustments needed, and she loves "the sheet dress" for playtime. Last month, I sent a great niece her first sewing machine, along with the Sewing for Dummies book, and a few others I picked up at a used book store. I also sent her Kate's site for necessary supplies(hope you didn't mind, Kate) and helpful info. Her husband is returning to Iraq soon and they have

3 children, so she said she'll find many projects to sew to keep occupied while DH is gone. Emily
Reply to
CypSew

The single, most important thing I learned about sewing was: Change needles often! Change your needle for every significant project or every other small project. I use Schmetz needles for garment construction. 80/12 is the most common size so I buy 80 sharps by the

100. I also keep some universals and ballpoints as well. Find yourself a good needle/thread/fabric chart on the web and make a copy for yourself if you don't have one already in a book. For silkies, you'll need 65-70 sharps, broadcloth 75-80s, twill wt 90-14s, jeans/denim 16-18. etc.

The second most important thing I ever learned about sewing is that, while a tad more expensive, sewing with natural fibers (cotton, silk, wool, linen, ramie) is not only more comfortable but vastly easier to sew and achieve a top notch outcome.

And the third thing is to use excellent thread. For some good thread lessons, read here at the Superior Thread website:

Avoid threads like Coats & Clark... the kinds of thread you would normally buy at JoAnns or Hancock. Bad thread will waste your time and sour your sewing experience. And it can really mess up a good sewing machine. Gutterman is sometimes OK but not always. What I've seen lately is terribly linty. Mettler, Superior, Robison-Anton, Aurifil are all high quality threads. Thread from China is unreliable--- little quality control.

Take lessons at a really good shop. I'm not talking about "project" lessons like making a pillow case or a thingy you can hang on the wall. I'm talking about technique lessons like beginning, advanced and master sewing lessons, tailoring, mastering the different feet, etc. Ask around. The shops that sell the best machines are usually the ones that give the most professional lessons. Have fun!!

Phae

Reply to
Phaedrine

Hi Meghan,

I'm thinking that maybe your sister isn't the ideal instructor for you. Mastering a new craft is tough enough without dealing with a bunch of emotional baggage as well. Take a couple of lessons from someone whose skills are up-to-date and take your sister's comments with a grain of salt.

Like the others have said, needles, needles, needles! Novices are prone to blaming themselves when things start to go wrong, but you really need to look to your equipment first. Change the needle, re-thread the machine.

You've received some really good advice on basic equipment so far. I would suggest getting yourself a pair of thread snips - little bitty scissors mean for trimming the thread at the end of a seam. Also, a roll of water soluble basting tape (WonderTape). This stuff makes installing zippers a breeze.

Let's see, what else... Oh! A comfy chair. What works best for me is having my hips higher than my knees, so look for a used office chair with adjustable height and tilt.

Kathleen

Reply to
Kathleen

Here's what I recalled of the first lesson I had, long before I knew that sewing machines existed:

"Man pin mouth naughty"

Reply to
cycjec

You've gotten such great answers. I just wanted to reiterate a couple things. ;) And add one more.

The reiterate stuff: Wash Away Wonder Tape. This stuff is Marvelous. When my summer student "graduated" sewing class and went off to design school, I sent her with a new package of it. It is great for "basting" zippers, patch pockets, lace trim, etc. I am always finding new uses for it. Again, make sure it says Wash Away, there are some fusible craft tapes out there (that you iron on) that look similar and some other tapes that are just made for taping things together. This stuff you can sew through and it won't gum up your needle or machine.

Glass head pins. I LOVE glass head pins. Know why? An iron won't melt glass. It will melt plastic. And there are many times when it's handy to pin the project pieces together and press.

Black & Decker irons. No matter which model you choose. I have been very, very pleased with this brand. Like most other brands, you can spend as much or as little as you like. My current one was around $40 at a discount store. Love it to pieces. And you will need a really good iron. (BTW, haven't seen this mentioned... Remember in sewing that you will Press not iron. Pressing means just that. You position the iron and press down. No sliding around side to side. That's ironing. Ironing is what you do when your clothes get wrinkled. Pressing is teaching the fabric how you want it to lie in the garment.)

New thing: A really good seam ripper. You will make mistakes. I've sewn since I was a teenager, and that was a coupla decades ago. ;) I still make mistakes. Sometimes those are the most valuable lessons you will have. Remember, as long as it is a fabric that you can close the needle holes on, you can remove a seam and redo it the right way. (If you are sewing something like vinyl or leather, you only get one whack, those needle holes won't close up. But you won't be diving right into that stuff for a while! lol) There are all kinds of seam rippers available. (that says a lot about how many seams get opened up huh?? lol) I prefer plain old razor blades. Cheap, and sharp. I get them at the hardware store. A box of 100 is about $3 or $5. (I sent a big baggy of these with my student too. She was tickled with both graduation presents. lol) The only trick with these is to hold the seam so you only cut the stitches, and don't cut yourself. ;) There are plenty of other types out there if those are intimidating.

Here's a few:

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(this one is my other favorite.it's a scalpel. You can change the blades when they get dull. The handlehas a great weight. And with the curve on the blade, it's very easy to getinto a seam. I use this on really delicate fabrics. I can cut one stitchat a time with this.) And remember to Have Fun with this!!! We will always be here to help too, so don't be shy about posting questions. We love newbies around here! ;)

Sharon

Reply to
Sharon Hays

And on the topic of "off-label" use of medical supplies, I find locking hemostats to be very helpful with heavy projects. The cheap ones are not impossible to break, though, so keep your face back if you're clipping about 6 layers of heavy stuff, and trying to use a hammer in close proximity to drive in a zipper stop.

When I found a vendor selling a box of the things at a flea market I bought a dozen of them, which got me a pretty weird look from the guy selling them. I felt like telling him, "Dude, they're only roach clips if that's what you use them for".

Kathleen

Reply to
Kathleen

I got a bunch at a yard sale being held by an E.R. nurse. They come in the packs they open for patients that include a lot of things that never get used at all, but can't be reused. (Which partially explains high hospital bills.) They are very useful around the house, especially with sewing and crafts. I vaguely remember another use from my wild and crazy youth......

Reply to
Pogonip

Pogonip wrote in news:45287c15$ snipped-for-privacy@news.bnb-lp.com:

yup, Boo fell on the icy hill last winter & split his eyebrow. he had eight stitches (and the ER doctor did such a fantastic job that there is no visible scar. she must do cosmetic surgery). when i took him back into ER to have the stitches out (because his pediatrician's office refused to do it) they gave me the sissors & tweezer pack instead of tossing it. the nurses really hate the waste. lee

Reply to
enigma

The disposable scalpels they use are the best seam rippers, too. Cheaper than buying them in a sewing store.

Reply to
Pogonip

In the U.S., at least, the best cotton sewing threads are still only three ply. The spool will be marked 50/3, which means that it's three "yarns" twisted together, and the yarns are fifty hanks to the pound. (Could be fifty "skeins", rather than "hanks". It's been a long time since I looked this up, and all I remember is that skeins and hanks are not the same; I have the vague impression that one is a fraction of the other, like pints and gallons.)

For durable sewing, you need 100/6 cotton: six yarns that are each half as thick as the three yarns in 50/3. The only well-spun 100/6 left on the market is a crochet/lacemaking thread called DMC Cordonnet Special: I buy it by mail order from lacemaker's supply vendors such as Snowgoose

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and Holly van Sciver
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Since it's meant for lacemaking, it comes in a ball that has to bere-wound onto a spool; luckily I have a collection of old woodenspools that are big enough to take an entire ball, and a hand-crankeddrill that makes the job reasonable. Cordonnet comes only in white and ecru, so there are times when I have to resort to weaker thread. When this happens I take a swatch to a particular clerk at the only fabric shop in town, and she walks straight to a spool I'd never have gotten around to considering. And she is authorized to unwind a spool to lay a thread across the swatch and make sure it really matches.

(Pity they don't have fabric that I want: I have a vested interest in seeing these guys *prosper*. Luckily, the area appears to have an ample supply of patchwork makers (who for some reason call themselves "quilters"), who spend extravagantly on cotton prints. But (pout) "quilters" never use silk thread; even the well-informed clerk thought I wanted *rayon*!)

There are times when a weaker thread is more durable than a stronger thread. For example, after patching a nightshirt, I sewed the pocket back on with two-ply basting thread: if he catches this pocket on a doorknob again, the pocket will rip off without tearing the nightshirt.

Joy Beeson

Reply to
Joy Beeson

I buy YLI and Aurifil cotton threads, which are readily available in the US, and frequently used by quilters for both piecing and quilting. They come in a full range of colours and are fine and very strong, being long staple cottons. I use them without trouble for dressmaking, and, indeed, prefer them over polyester for silk fabrics when I cannot get a good match in silk thread.

50's count cotton threads are tad clumsy for fine dressmaking, but excellent for hard wearing construction and top stitching. I usually go for 50's count silk threads as 100's very fine and not quite strong enough for some applications,. It makes wonderful embroidery thread and is fantastic for fine buttonholes.
Reply to
Kate Dicey

Rotary cutters are *fantastic*

I finally got one. Cutting is much less of a strain.

Reply to
cycjec

rotary cutters are great

Reply to
Victoria

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