1. Home
  2. Sewing Discussions
  3. Bust alterations in vertical princess seams?

Bust alterations in vertical princess seams?

Hi,

I'm going to make this nightgown and was wondering if you guys can advise on altering the pattern for larger cup size.

formatting link

The times I've done such alterations were on bust seams that ended at the armhole instead of straight up. Should I add 1/4" per cup size at the *bust point* on both the side bodice and the center bodice? Or at the bust point only on the side bodice and then extend the center bodice in *length*? The second way is the one I've done before but I'm concerned it will end up being rather uniboob. On the other hand, will the first way end up looking torpedo?

In fact I'm wondering whether there is any advantage to putting in a dart from the side seam in addition to the princess alterations, since there are several cup sizes to go up. I could even consider distributing the additional fabric between princess seam, dart, and gathers at the empire line. Obviously my head is buzzing with the options. Any advice very appreciated!

Thanks, Pora

Reply to
wurstergirl
Loading thread data ...

formatting link

It is hard to tell from the pattern picture exactly what shape the bodice pieces are to start with. This should be easier to make fit properly than if it had a high neckline.

I would probably take the center pieces and slash diagonally from the neckline a bit above the cf to the bust point, opening it toward the bust point so that the neckline doesn't gap and you don't get the uniboob. Depending on just how many sizes you are going up, you may also want to add some length in the center.

Usually I would add more of the needed additional width to the side pieces than the center pieces.

With the separate pieces at the bust, I don't think you need to put in a side dart, just slash from the side to the bust point and open as necessary.

The gathers at the empire line could be a nice option too.

--Betsy

Reply to
Betsy

formatting link

Have you tried the standard full bust alteration for this?

Your pattern pieces need to expand slightly in WIDTH at the bustline, as well as in length down that seam. I'd try slash and pivot for lengthening the seam, and then a slight addition to the width of the bust pieces by doing another slash and pivot to spread them horizontally but keep the empire line the same lngth... I can picture what I'd try, but I can't describe it well!

Reply to
Kate XXXXXX

Thanks Kate and Betsy. I'll see how I can incorporate your advice. (Kinda putting this on temporary hold b/c I found another pattern I like a lot better.)

Pora

Reply to
wurstergirl

InspirePoint website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.