1. Home
  2. Sewing Discussions
  3. convert standard crotch pattern to gusseted crotch ?

convert standard crotch pattern to gusseted crotch ?

Hello, Looking for a link / resource / instructions for converting (modifying) a sewing pattern with a standard curved crotch construction to a gusseted crotch ?

I have found online instructions for adding a crotch to existing clothes. however ...

I want to eliminate the back center seam of a "jumper pajama" sewing pattern by converting the curved crotch to a gusset so that i can cut the rear panel out as one flat piece. Then the gusset will provide the needed crotch ?space?

I experimented with straight edge following the back seam line at the allowance line straight down to the leg and then fashion a gusset out of the curved bit that was removed but my mod does something odd to the length and crotch height. It becomes obvious when the arms are raised up 8}

thanks for any helpful ideas, robb

Reply to
robb
Loading thread data ...

Sorry, I cannot help (nor can I imagine why such an alteration is desirable/necessary), but my search lead me to this site:

formatting link
I could not resist posting that link. ;->

Reply to
BEI Design

Here ya go, Robb. These are the best crotches I've seen yet:

formatting link

Reply to
RedDog

It shouldn't... at least not if you did what I think you did. But I bet you didn't add extra torso length beyond what a pants and shirt would give you. You get a permanent wedgie if you don't.

formatting link
Take a look at the patterns above... if you look at the middle pattern in the first row, the McCalls, you can sort of see the straight skirt in the pattern. Drop a straight line down from the full hip at side seams, and straight down from the waistline at the crotch intersections and you can see the straight skirt in the pants pattern.

The gusset can be shaped by cutting off the front and back crotch extensions and joining the two along the inseams... result is a long diamond. But you need all of the original width and length. The back seam of pants (good ones at least -- those McCall pants are terrible, but easy to see the skirt basis), is typically angled in at center back seam, resulting in what is in effect a long dart at center back. You've got to put that extra fabric for the dart back in when you're doing what you propose, putting the center back seam back on vertical, and then take that back out in darting or dart equivalent at the waist.

The only time I've done this (for someone who used a wheelchair and was having pressure problems from seams), I started with a custom draft and did not cant what would be the center back seam ... so I had the advantage of not needing to guess how much the patternmaker had taken out.

Kay

Reply to
Kay Lancaster

Thanks Kay, for the helpful description of the problem and how to solve.

I have a purchased kwik sew pattern 2704 with a seam in the center back that i want to remove.

I must have either cut the *new center back fold* too deep or did not account for a seam allowance for the gusset when i used the straight edge to follow a line parallel to the original seamed center back pattern line.

I will try again with your information handy.

Thanks again, robb

Reply to
robb

for the consideration. robb

Reply to
robb

InspirePoint website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.