crepe backed satin

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I'm using crepe backed satin for the first time. I've never sewn with a
shiney fabric like this before. Is there anything I should be wary
about before I start?

Thanks` :)


Re: crepe backed satin
snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

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Everything!  ;)

If it's the poly stuff, it'll creep, stretch, pucker, fall on the floor,
wrinkle so you cannot press it properly, and snag on the tiniest thing!
  The up side is that it's as tough as old boots and washable!  :)

I have sewn MASSES of this stuff!  I'm good at it - but even I have
problems at times!  Just be careful and follow my golden rules:

Use VERY FINE new pins!  Pretend it's expensive silk!

Use a fine new needle: a 60 or 70.  Use good quality poly thread to go
with it!

Baste anything that has any bias to it!

Stay-stitch all necklines, armholes, sleeve heads, and the facings that
go with them!

Use a pressing cloth!  Press, don't iron!

Fusible interfacing WILL stick - eventually!  You'll need to use a
slightly cooler iron, more steam, and press for a longer period, but it
will eventually stick.

It responds better to serged seams than straight stitched ones,
especially on flared/bias pieces.

Concealed zips look waaaaaay better than any other sort!

Hems will need to be done by hand if you can't roll them on the serger.

There are a few projects I've done in this stuff on my web site: the
Ladies in Red in the Wedding Gallery (they don't show to great advantage
on the stand), the Bias Cut Disaster stuff in The Learning Zone (made
matte side out), and a gown in the costume gallery that has a full
circle skirt.  This is the tip of the iceberg for me!  I've also made
capes, kimonos, and a host of other stuff over the years.  Oh, and
there's an example of it not at all shown to advantage in the Hysterical
Costuming section: look at What The Dickens.  That dress needs to be
made of taffeta, but the customer had already panic bough 16m of this
stuff...

If you run into any problems, shout!

--
Kate  XXXXXX  R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
Re: crepe backed satin
I'd just like to say that i LOVE your site. It's beyond helpful!

I just had a quick question about your post though. What do you mean by
"Baste anything that has any bias to it!"? The skirt part of my dress
is biased cut, so I wanna make sure I do it right!


Re: crepe backed satin
snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

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Thank you.  :)
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Baste it by hand, using EITHER fine silk thread OR machine embroidery
thread (great for this and buttonholes!), and sew with a smallish stitch
on a very narrow zigzag, like those seams I did/replaced in the bias cut
disasters.  This will prevent a lot of tears and swearing as it will
minimize creep as you sew.  And the silk/embroidery thread won't leave
big holes if you have to alter the seams, and will slide out much more
easily than basting thread - which is often rough old stuff!  Try it on
before you sew those seams, too!  Also, if you have one, try either a
roller foot (has little rollers or wheels in) or a walking/even feed
foot (gives you feed teeth on top) for sewing the seams.  They also help
a lot.  If this is for a posh and important occasion, the expense is
worth it and you'll use them again!  :)

Then hang it up or (preferably!) put it on a dress dummy and let it hang
for a week before you do the hem!  :)

--
Kate  XXXXXX  R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
Re: crepe backed satin
thank you. that's awesome advice! i totally wouldn't have thought to do
that-baste and then zigzag.. i'm so used to using a straight stitch!.


Re: crepe backed satin
snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

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The thing about bias (or seams with any amount of bias even if it isn't
a full 45 degrees) is that it's stretchy, and it wants to drop.  You
need to let it drop a bit to avoid popped seams, so I find with soft
drapy stuff like this the best thing is to treat it almost like a
stretch knit.  :)  The other thing you *can* do (if you don't have
zigzag available) it stretch the seam a bit as you sew.  The danger here
is distorting it too much, so it won't go back when you press it, or you
get rippled seam allowances showing through as bumps on the outside.

Oh - when basting, don't dangle the fabric from the needle in your lap!
  Go sit at the table, keep the weight of the fabric ON the table in
front of you, as flat as possible, and work like a couture pro!

This poly satin nightmare from hell fabric* just LOOOOVES to do all this
tricksy stuff in spades!  Don't let it put you off: you have brain cells
and it doesn't!  ;)  You can deal with it.  May take a bit of practice,
but one day soon you'll be an old hand at it, like me!  And it looks
sooooh good when you get it right.  :)

*There *are* worse - believe me, there ARE worse fabrics!  Just you
wait!  :D  :D  :D  I'd rather use nice 54 a metre hand printed silk,
but what the customer wants...

--
Kate  XXXXXX  R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
Re: crepe backed satin
Hello,

I kind of missed something.  Did you decide to go with the New Look
6348 pattern?  Kate is a terrific resource to give the pointer to
before you start.  She can save you tons of heartache with advice.
(Kate: I looked at the pattern instructions and they give *no* extra
seam allowance or special instructions for the bias skirt.  It has a
center back zipper that goes from a straight grain bodice to the bias
skirt.)

One of my favorite ways to work with slinky fabrics is to use the
Totally Stable fusible paper.  You can stitch right through it and peel
it off easily afterwards.  Would be useful for that narrow rolled  hem
on the bias skirt.  (Don't iron all the way to the edge, so it can roll
freely.)

What color did you choose for your crepe back satin?  I love that
fabric to wear.  It will be really pretty!!!


Pora

Pora


Re: crepe backed satin
yup, i went with the new look one. have you sewn this before? any
pointers if you have? :)

"Kate: I looked at the pattern instructions and they give *no* extra
seam allowance or special instructions for the bias skirt.  It has a
center back zipper that goes from a straight grain bodice to the bias
skirt."

^ is there somethng that's not in the pattern insturctions that i
should do? or look out for?

:)


Re: crepe backed satin
I think Kate was trying to explain about working with bias.  Basically,
in the vertical and horizontal directions woven fabrics don't stretch.
But if you pull diagonally most of them will stretch.  As the fabric
expands in the diagonal (bias direction), the vertical and horizontal
directions react by shortening.  In a bias cut skirt, gravity is
providing the pull downward in the bias direction.  The skirt will
actually lengthen in areas around the hemline (but unevenly).  In
compensation, the distance around your body will shorten (also
unevenly).  This makes the lovely clinginess of a bias skirt.  But the
net effect is that if you don't give extra seam allowances, it will be
too tight to wear!   (And the waist may drop to rest on your hips.)

Most fabrics will reach maximum distortion after hanging in the bias
direction for a few days.  So a common way of handling this issue is to
have you baste the skirt together either with thread or pins, let it
hang and stretch out completely for a day or two, then try it on and
adjust the side seams to fit you again.  The fit can shrink
drastically, so having extra seam allowance is pretty important.  (One
skirt I made had 4 inch allowances, so a total of 13 extra inches
around to play with!)   One difficulty is that every time you adjust
the fit it gives the fabric another chance to re-distort.  One can
repeat the hanging and refitting ad infinitum and never feel it's
perfect.   And, the hemline changes every time you do it, so don't trim
it straight until you've decided to stop refitting!

Anyway, I was struck by the fact that the New Look pattern didn't
mention to hang overnight or provide extra seam allowances.  Like I
said in the earlier thread, the wearing ease is 6 1/2 inches, which is
pretty generous.  That might be their way of automatically compensating
for the "shrinkage."   I'm not trying to discourage you from making
this, because it will be lovely when done.  Just want to prevent
disasters!

Kate: are there other home-sewing techniques you know for doing bias
skirts?

Pora


Re: crepe backed satin
wurstergirl wrote:

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No, I think between us we've covered just about everything.  I always
let a true bias garment, anything with a greater than half circle skirt,
and anything multi-panel and/or very soft fabric rest on a dress stand
for as long as possible: up to a week.

--
Kate  XXXXXX  R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
Re: crepe backed satin
hey kate... may i please ask one more question :)

so on the pattern, instead of bust darts, there are gathers under the
busts instead. now, i'm having some trouble getting them to look nice.
the pattern doesn't specify where to place the basting for the gathers
ie, at the seam line? or a little below? etc. also the bodice is lined,
so should i baste and gather through the lining as well or just the
crepe backed satin? and would you suggest larger stitches for the baste
or smaller ones?

thank you so much!!


Re: crepe backed satin
snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

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of course!  :)
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Gather both the lining and the fashion fabric.  There *should* be a
couple of dotd on the seam line to tell you where to gather between.

Use a slightly larger machine stitch than you'll use to sew the seam.
and do two lines of stitching about 1/8th of an inch apart, just a tad
inside the seam line.
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You're welcome.  :)

--
Kate  XXXXXX  R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
Re: crepe backed satin
snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

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The classic way to cut bias garments is with a wider seam allowance to
make room for extra drop on some fabrics...  Floppier ones tend to drop
more.  Just add a bit before you cut, but mark where the seam SHOULD be,
and sew on that line.  I usually allow an inch seam allowance on soft
tight weaves, and more on open weaves as they drop more.

--
Kate  XXXXXX  R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
Re: crepe backed satin
wurstergirl wrote:
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SH**T!  (Fill in as you see fit!)

Best thing will be a concealed zip*: put the dress on, AFTER it's hung a
few days, and them MEASURE down the dress WITH THE ZIP to see where the
end lands...  When you take the dress off, lay it out so that you can
squish the skirt into this measurement.  You'll see how on the bias
disaster page.  Look at how I did this on those dresses, and do the same
for the skirt section of the zip.  Any confusion or problems, shout.
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* Remember, with a concealed zip, buy a couple of inches longer than
needed: you can't sew to the end of it!  Keep this in mind when you do
the measuring.

The classic way with a concealed zip is to put it in BEFORE sewing the
seam.  This *is* best, but you can usually manage by just ending the
seam 2-3 inches below where you want the zip to end, and joining the
dots...  :)

--
Kate  XXXXXX  R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
Re: crepe backed satin
Re: !@#$%
Yes, I thought the zipper issue was kind of difficult.  The
professional seamstress who made the bias dress I wore to my sister's
wedding never got that zipper right, though she tried 3 times.  Her
poor slave helper had to keep ripping it out.  Eventually we just ran
out of time and I had to wear it with the little end pointing out of my
butt.  Pretty awful for $300 worth of 4-ply silk.

Oy, what time is it?

Pora


Re: crepe backed satin
wurstergirl wrote:
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After 2 pm here and I've got a client coming at 4:30 and I'm just
starting on her bodice toile...

There's time - it's only a boned wedding dress bodice toile, after all!

--
Kate  XXXXXX  R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
Re: crepe backed satin
Kate Dicey wrote:

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DONE!  I think the sewing machine has melted!

Cut and sewn: just need to take some pix and pop the boning in the
channels...

--
Kate  XXXXXX  R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
Re: crepe backed satin
"DONE! "

^^ YAY!!!!! :)


Re: crepe backed satin
quick question, kate or wurstergirl :) The pattern instructions say to
use lightweight interfacing (for the neck) but the woman at the fabric
store told me to use medium weight instead. Otherwise, the edges of the
neck will begin to flop out. Now I bought light and medium weight
interacing just in case, and I was wondering which one you'd suggest
using... (I see her point about the neck flopping out, but at the same
time I don't want the neckline to look stiffer than the rest of the
garment)


Re: crepe backed satin
snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

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Use the light weight and understitch.  If it still rolls to the outside,
weight it down with a second hidden layer basted to the inside of the
loose edge of the facing.

--
Kate  XXXXXX  R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.

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