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Elasticized Waistband - RTW Technique

Love the waistbands in the RTW twill and tencel slacks I buy. Have yet to find a pattern design that uses the technique. Do any of you expert sewists know how it's done? I wish someone would write a procedure, as the company that makes my slacks continues to lower the quality of the navy and stone twill they use.

Instead of elasticizing the entire back waistband, beginning at the side seam they make an 8 inch strip insert, attach a 3 or 4 inch piece of elastic to it, then continue with the rest of the back waistband. Of course there has to be sufficient extra fabric in the design of the back quarter to match evenly with the 8 inch insert. Yes, there is a hip dart as well. The waistband is interfaced in all the places where there is no elastic.

These are enormously comfortable, as one's waistline (at my age) tends to expand through the day. I've also had RTW skirts with this feature. Have I given a good description? I would do a biopsy of these except that I don't want to give up a good pair of slacks or a skirt.

What do you think? Is anyone willing to set forth written instructions for doing this or know where one can be had? It should be copyrighted, once done.

Sharon

Reply to
Seeker
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Dear Sharon

Are you saying that the entire back is elasticized, or just the sides? I can describe both methods, but I want to make sure I give the right ones.

Teri

Reply to
gjones2938

I hoped you would tackle this, Teri. Thanks for jumping in. I suspected you would know how to deal with this. The insert's only on either side (both sides), just behind the side seam. It ends at the back darts, where a regular, non-elasticized waisband application is stitched it the center between the darts. When stretched out, the waistband insert is approximately 8 inches long (may differ by size, I don't know). The brand of chino slacks I buy at J.C.Penneys have it. I have several lovely crepe/tencel skirts that have it. My husband has several pairs of chino slacks that have it. I'm guessing that the entire back panel of the slacks (both sides) has to be adjusted by putting a lengthwise slit parallel to the grainline and expanding it by how ever much is added to get the insert.

Where I get stuck is trying to figure how to elasticize the insert with a piece of elastic and still be able to stitch the waistband to the top of the slacks after all the side seams, zipper placket, and center back seam are all stitched together to make the waist circle. Hope I am being understandale and clear.

It will be great to read your guide, but tomorrow I'll be going up country to DFIL's with DH to central Pennsylvania to help trim all the shrubs on DFIL's property and do a fall cleanup. While there we're going to fit in birthday celebrations for two GDs. What fun!

It will be a treat when we get back on Monday eve to check out alt.sewing and see what you've come up with. That is, if you've had the time. Yip yip yahoo!!! Have a lovely fall weekend, everyone!

Sharon

Reply to
Seeker

Dear Sharon,

First, when you cut out your pants, do not curve in the waist--cut straight up from the hip. This will give you the room needed for the elastic. The elastic should be the finished width of the waistband, and the length of the side seam to the back dart, less 1/3, plus two seam allowances. You will have to make the waistband pattern longer. (In fact, I never use the waistband patterns--they're always too short. I measure around my own waist (loosely) and add about four inches.

When constructing the side seams, leave about 1-1/2 inches unsewn at the tops. This simply makes it easier to put on the two-piece waistband.

Sew the front waistbands to the pants, but don't do the second stitching. Press all layers up into the waistband, and don't trim the seams. With right sides together, sew the ends of the back waistband to the front waistbands., and at the same time, complete the side seams where you stopped to work on the waistband. Insert the elastic, so that it's inside the fold at the side seam, then topstitch the ends of the elastic in place from the outside. Sew the waistband to the back waistline. Stretch out the elastic, and topstitch it where you want it to reach on the back. Finally, turn down the inside of the waistband, and stitch in the ditch along the entire length.

Don't hesitate to ask more questions if my instructions aren't clear.

Teri

Reply to
gjones2938

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