Fabric: Aaarrgghhh!

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I bought several yards of this:
http://www.fabricfabric.net/images/swatches/23303.600x600_thumb.gif

Intending to make a top to go with a teal linen jacket, and perhaps  
if the fabric was light enough, line the jacket with the plaid.  It  
arrived, gorgeous colors, interesting print!  However, I  
straightened the ends, and lost better than 6" each end.  Not an  
issue, I thought, I bought lots.   BUT, it is PRINTED off-grain.  
The black stripes wander up/downhill six inches from side-to-side.  
That is not going to work for a blouse, I refuse to cut that far off  
grain.  I might fudge a little on a poorly printed fabric, but not  
six inches.  <sigh>

So I'm thinking, since I cannot cut the blouse on the  
straight-of-grain (the stripes would wander up/downhill), and I'm  
not about to cut it off-grain, maybe bias would work.  Looking at:
http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v9771-products-2376.php?page_id=866
I know it says, "Unsuitable for obvious diagonals, plaids or  
stripes." but since the only other choice is to toss the whole  
piece...

Or suppose I could just cut a plain jewel-neck top on the bias, but  
I'm leery about how much to add side-to-side to adjust for the  
verticle "grow".

What do you folks think???

--  
Beverly




Re: Fabric: Aaarrgghhh!
HMmmmm.   I love the fabric.  I would do it on the bias.  Not quite  
understanding what you mean about 'vertical grow' but guess it's sort of  
like hanging a circular skirt for a few days to see what happens before  
attempting a level hem.  ??   Polly  


Re: Fabric: Aaarrgghhh!
Polly Esther wrote:
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I loved the fabric too!

When the bias sags (vertically), it also narrows the piece down  
horizontally.  I am not sure how to alter non-bias pattern to allow  
for the extra width needed to accommodate the reduction when the  
bias sags.  I did read a good article here:
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3745/bias-101

It recommends adding 1.5" seam allowances **in addition** to 1 to  
1.5 inches of extra ease.  I'm thinking if I mark (on the bias) the  
width I need for a bodice, then hang the fabric for a couple of days  
to allow the vertical stretch and measure how much the horizontal  
measurement decreased, I might just be able to guesstimate an  
alteration.

Or, I'll buy a bias-cut pattern...  :-}


Re: Fabric: Aaarrgghhh!
I'm thinking you're on the right track.  I'd mark and hang.  Polly

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Re: Fabric: Aaarrgghhh!
On 7/12/2013 4:07 PM, BEI Design wrote:
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I think I hate this kind of dilemma.  I've had many like it myself.  
That's why I've got so many tablecloths and placemats and pillow covers  
made of pretty fabric that had some quirk.
--  
Joanne
stitches @ singerlady.reno.nv.us.earth.milky-way.com
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
Re: Fabric: Aaarrgghhh!
Pogonip wrote:
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Yeah, this is way too nice for any of those uses.  :-}  I'm making  
some alterations to an old (I knew there was a reason I never throw  
patterns away) Vogue pattern:  
http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v8536-products-9211.php?page_id=866&search_control=display&list=search
I'm thinking View A but with elbow sleeves, facing for the neck  
edge, and cut on the bias.  No attempt to match the print pattern on  
this one.

However that is drafted for knit, so maybe this Butterick:
http://butterick.mccall.com/b3383-products-3580.php?page_id=875
would be sized a little better for woven.

Hmmm....



Re: Fabric: Aaarrgghhh!
On 7/13/2013 12:18 AM, BEI Design wrote:
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What?  You don't have enough of a headache as it is?  Now you're going  
to try to use a pattern for knit fabric for your woven fabric?  Have you  
had this martyr complex long?  :-P
--  
Joanne
stitches @ singerlady.reno.nv.us.earth.milky-way.com
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
Re: Fabric: Aaarrgghhh!
Pogonip wrote:
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<snip>
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About 70 years, give or take...

And I found a better pattern option for woven:
http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m6355-products-14410.php?page_id=96

Closer fit, and no off-the-shoulder armscye which I loath.  Not  
sure, but I think TSWLTH is having a $ .99 pattern sale right now.



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