I would like to use your answers for a beginner serging class I will be teaching this spring. Thanks!
Straight stitch at 1/4 inch for quilts. I don't use the others with the exception of satin stitch.
two lessons and I have videos.
I have videos that were produced by an expert serger plus those that come from Bernina
I use the basic foot, and usually only one needle. Granted, I'm usually sewing knits or finishing seams/hem allowances, so I don't need the strength of two needle threads.
(I've got a basic serger, that does 3/4 thread stitches, and can be adjusted for wide or narrow seam, rolled hem is by changing foot and needle plate.)
I don't remember....I've had it for 15 years now. I think it took about 10 hours of just using it to be comfortable with it and all that it did.
Never took a class -- the shop never scheduled one when I could take it (not their fault...my work schedule kept changing, so that when they were offering day classes I was working days; when they offered evening classes, I was working second shift), until I'd had it for 6 months, by which point I'd figured it out (*).
jenn
(*)I got the serger to work on my wedding dress, and by the time I'd had it for 6 months, I'd finished the dress....
-- Jenn Ridley snipped-for-privacy@chartermi.net
I use the basic 4 thread stitch for finishing edges and sewing seams at the same time. I have a basic serger ( simplicity frontier 390) so it doesn't have too many special features. I bought it to finish edges and to speed up sewing, and that is exactly how I use it. I thought when I bought it that it would be a good beginners machine and that down the road I could upgrade, but since I don't even use the extra feet it came with I see no need to upgrade to a machine that has more feet available or more stitches. A coverstitch might be nice someday, but I did the math and it really doesn't pay to make t-shirts, so I don't think it would be a sound investment on my part.
A few days. I had to make lots of little samples on different fabrics and play with tensions and figure out how to switch to 2 or 3 thread modes etc. Every time I try a new fabric though it is a learning experience, but I keep a notebook with swatches and notes on the settings used so I don't have to teach myself the same thing twice.
No class was available. I watched the video, studied the manual and bought a bunch of used books on eBay . I also asked a lot of questions on the internet of people who already had sergers.
Rebecca
Rolled hem! NOT the one I use most - that's the 4 thread seam - but the one that gives me that 'Oooh, nice!' feeling when I do it! It takes about half a minute to convert from 4 thread serged seam to rolled hem on my machine. I use it for edging/hemming all sorts of light weight stuff, from fancy thread edges on cotton skirts (great for circular skirts!), to silk chiffon (take a look at some of my bridal projects on the web site).
About 10 minutes! But remember, I was already a very experienced sewer, used to using fast machines. It took a little longer to get used to the
4 threads and the faster pace of the new machine when I bought it.Years ago, when I got the first one, yes... I could use a refresher/more advanced course.
Best of luck! I love teaching sewing stuff.
Ditto, ditto, ditto! I have the same serger. I *would* be using the 4 thread, but I lost the little screw that holds the second needle in (darnit!). I even use mine for semi-commercial work, in my sewing business, and I love how it can handle really thick layers of fabric (I often do 3 layers of sherpa and polarfleece). I use the three thread overlock stitch for everything (but on pants, I always have to go back and reinforce the crotch seam with a straight stitch on my regular sewing machine).
It took me about three days to get it all figured out, though I still haven't used the rolled hem (I've had it for a little over a year), or the two thread function (didn't even know it did that!). I've got it really well figured out for what I use it for, though ;o) I don't see a need to upgrade in the future, as this one has had heavy use, and it has never even needed serviced :o)
My FAV is the rolled hem. I just love what it can do to a project. It is so much my favourite that I purchased a second back up serger so I could leave on the rolled hem permanently. FOOT -- my FAV is the piping foot. I just love what corded piping/welting can do for a garment.
Oh my, The very first serger I purchased was a Brother 5-thread w/coverstitch. Believe it or not but the coverstitch threading was *much* easier than the regular. I never really got comfortable with that serger - but that was the fault of the serger - it was a lemon! I have since taken classes on the Hus/Viking 5 thread w/coverstitch and it is a DREAM machine!!(On my wish list) After I purchased a serger that worked correctly it took me about 2-3 hours to really feel comfortable with the machine. I worked for a while in a garment factory so tend to sew at breakneck speed and the ZOOM of the serger speed was nice for me.
Yes, when I could not get the Brother to work right for me I took a class and that is when I found out the Brother was faulty BUT I also learned during that class many of the things a serger can do for you. I have since purchased every issue of the Serger newsletter that I can find on eBay - they are a BIG part of my reference library.
Have fun with the class - I wish I had an **advanced** serger class available to me. The only dealership in this town that has an advanced class is the Bernina dealer and they will only let you come if you have a Bernina serger.
I would like to say that I do not see what the "big problem" is with threading. Once I learned how to thread (not pull through) I found that it goes rather fast. PLEASE teach your students to thread the serger because if they are ever doing the pull-through and one thread breaks they will need to do "manual" threading. I find that if you take off the plate so you can really see into the works - threading the lower looper is not that big a deal. I use tweezers and a magnifying glass. The lady who taught my serger class (and who KNEW my Brother was a lemon) first had us open the sergers completely so we could see the "WORKS". When one of the students pulled too hard on her project -- thus causing her lower looper to malfunction -- this teacher opened the machine and GENTLY bent the lower looper back into position and that student was able to complete the class. She did advise the student to take her serger in to let the repair man take a look see. Next class that lady said her repairman told her the teacher's repair was in good form and he did not need to do anymore.
There is also as generic Serger Repair Manual available on the market - It will not be helpful for the newer computerized models or many of the TOL sergers -- but for the normal 2/3/4 thread sergers it is a wonderful tool.
Sun
Actually now that I've purchased a Viking 2-5 thread serger my old Sears 3-4 thread and I are awfully cozy.
the new machine I've forgotten how to do it by the time I get home. I have to work these things out by myself when I'm very calm and won't get too frustrated!
Have you tried calling simplicity or sending them an e-mail? You should be able to replace the screw.
Please tell me how you do this? I was trying to work with 2 layers of Malden mills shearling polar fleece ( its faux fur on one side of the fabric and regular fleece on the other side ) and it was a nightmare. It was so thick I had a nearly impossible time getting the machine adjusted for it, and I am not happy with the results. :o(
I do that too. I sew that area on the regular machine but then use a 4 thread stitch on the edges, and do the side seams by serger only.
I got it going on some gauze, but its tricky.
You use that little wire bit in the plastic vial. The instruction for switching it to 2 thread in the manual aren't clear though. If you ever decide to try it and have a problem, e-mail me off list and I'll try to help. I found a picture in another book that helped me figure it out. I can scan it and send it to you.
Rebecca
Hehehe...I know what MM shearling is! I have a ROLL of it in my son's closest right now ;o) I've serged two layers of it with no problem. I just make sure the stitch width is as wide as it goes, and use a 3-thread stitch. Only use the needle in the left position, to get the widest stitch possible (stitch width should be proportionate to fabric thickness-wider for thicker, narrower for thinner :o).
I know I can probably find a replacement screw, but we're POOR right now, LOL, and I haven't even begun to try.
NYC-FMS scribbled on a scrap of paper:
Ron of A1 Sewing Machines, a poster here has parts, you should contact him.
Penny
Kyla scribbled on a scrap of paper:
I bet you could buy a screw from Rom for some change off the floor of your car and a postage stamp.
Penny
Hi everyone! Your answers have been very enlightning! At the end of the month, I will post a compilation in either MSExcel or AcrobatPDF format that you can download of these results. Thanks for your input, this will be a helpful tool for my beginner serging students. ShereeSews in M!ch!gan
You think? It's an itty bitty thing, with a point on the end, and a hole on the other for the allen wrench to go in. I didn't think they would have anything like that at a hardware store, but I will look.
Funny thing about this little screw is, I lost it once before. It's only about 3/16" long, and it was gone for about 7 months. Then, one day, I FOUND it. So bizarre; never thought I would be able to find something that small! It was under my sewing cabinet, held hostage by a dust bunny ;o) Then, I put it safely on my grabbit, because I could not find my allen wrench (it was in my sewing machine box, rather than my serger box *grr*). went back a day later, when I found the wrench, and the little screw had escaped again :o(
If it's a steel screw, try one of those strong magnet wands. I have two kinds - one that looks sort of like a hairbrush, and another that is like a car radio antenna. Both are useful.
If all else fails, you might have a better chance of finding a replacement at an auto parts store. Try Ron first - it's always good to keep it as simple as possible.
Pogonip scribbled on a scrap of paper:
yes let's do give Ron a plug:
And he keeps odd bits for older machines, too - like bobbins and stitch plates for an 1888 Singer!
Please keep answers brief and to the point! Many Thanks! ShereeSews in Michigan
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