Hello All:
Well the wife's skirt is finished and didn't come out too bad. There is one part that bugs me a bit though. There is a zipper in the middle of the skirt (on the back) and at the end of the zipper the skirt tends to "pop out" a bit.
Is this due to the zipper being new and stiff? Might this go away after being worn for a while or did I do something wrong.
Thanks!
When I put a zipper in I sew down one side, then across the bottom usually at least twice before I sew up the other sice of the zipper. I don't think I have ever had your problem. HTH Barbara in Florida
Did you sew down one side and up the other? Not a good idea... Also, if this is a standard zip, it's usually best to baste the opening closed up the seam line and apply the zip to the back. That way you know there's continuity between the zip opening and the seam.
Concealed zips are a bit more difficult as you put the zip in before sewing the seam, but it's still much better to sew down both sides in the same direction.
If you are sewing a lapped zipper, it works best to sew the underlying side first, then the upper side. Sew both side THE SAME DIRECTION. Usually a pucker at the bottom is created as the fabric is pushed ahead of the foot, so I like to sew zippers from bottom to top. I also either pin-baste or hand baste *very* carefully. I found that holding the fabric-zipper sandwich over my left hand as I baste provides just a slight ease to the fabric and the zipper fits better.
Pretty much the same applies to a centered zipper. I never use the "machine baste the opening and apply the zipper with the seam basted closed" method, I have never had a good result doing that.
If it's an invisible zipper, DO NOT sew the seam "to within an inch of the bottom of the opening" which is how the instructions usually tell you to do it. Instead, insert the zipper in both sides, THEN hand stitch the first inch of the seam below the zipper with tiny back stitches starting at the bottom of the zipper, and finish on the machine, starting at those hand stitches and sew the seam to the bottom of the bodice/skirt/whatever, using a zipper foot. A zipper foot, because even though you are going to be mostly sewing a flat seam the bit just below the bottom of the zipper still wants to squirm as you start. I have a few pictures here:
HTH,
You know, Beverly and Kate, as long as I've been sewing, I have never had any luck sewing in invisible zippers. I usually just throw the project in the back of a drawer somewhere because they just don't look right.
But with your instructions, I plan to dig two dresses out this afternoon and play with them. After all, it is raining now and we're suppose to have our
3rd snowfall this winter, so it is not a good time to be outside.Thanks for the instructions.
-- Emily
You are very welcome. I think buttonholes and zippers are the two most often cited problems which turn folks off of sewing. Good luck with getting your UFOs finished.
Did you interface the zipper inset area? My guess is it got a bit stretched from overhandling during construction.
Some really good zipper tutorials:
You have to modify seam allowances in the zipper area with these methods, and it helps to use a lightweight fusible interfacing in the insets.
Make up the patterns and templates and then just pin the new extensions to the commercial pattern for cutting.
Kay
If you want a copy of the leaflet I got years ago about putting these things in, buzz me an email. I have it scanned in.
That would be wonderful, Kate. You are so helpful and I do appreciate the offer. Thank you.
Emily
On its way... :)
Thanks for all the tips everyone.
I machine basted (term always reminds me of Turkey on Thanksgiving day) the seam closed. Hand basted the zipper in place then went down one side, across the bottom and then up the other side.
It would appear that the general consensus is not to do this.
Next is brown wool then on to gray wool - just in time for summer for her :)
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