Fitting Summer Top Pattern

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I need some help getting the fit right on a summer top I'm working on.
It's New Look #6483, View B, (sleeveless, round neck) except that I've
lowered the neckline to about 3" below the base of the throat.  I've
also eliminated the back opening.

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http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/patterns/sewingpatterns.pl?patternid=862

I made one about a year ago in slightly stretchy fabric and thought I
was happy with it, even though it's not designed for stretch.  Now I'm
trying to make in in non-stretch shirting, and just can't seem to get it
right. I made several test samples and finally got the right size.  I've
lenghtened and lowered the bust darts a bit, and now it's almost right.
  Trouble is, I still have a diagonal wrinkle from just under the bust
down to the waist on both sides.  I think it's a dart issue, but what do
I do about it?

Does anyone know of a website that shows this type of problem and its
solution?  I've tried googling, but came up with so many hits that had
nothing to do with sewing or altering patterns.  Thanks for any help you
can give.

Donna G.
Michigan's Upper Peninsula

Re: Fitting Summer Top Pattern
Dear Donna,

It is a dart problem.  You will need to make a dart, or try pinning
out the side seams.  But that might make it necessary to put in a side
zipper so you can get it on.

  The other thing you can do is find a dartless pattern--they're
drafted differently.

Teri


Re: Fitting Summer Top Pattern
Donna Gennick wrote:
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This gives a lot of information on reading wrinkles:

http://www.cahe.nmsu.edu/pubs/_c/c-228.html

--
Every job is a self-portrait of the person who does it.  Autograph your
work with excellence.

Re: Fitting Summer Top Pattern
Thank you, Melinda.  That site gives a lot of useful information and I
will save it for future reference.  I didn't find my particular problem
there, though.  Thank you for posting it.

Donna G.
Michigan's Upper Peninsula



Melinda Meahan - take out TRASH to reply wrote:

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Re: Fitting Summer Top Pattern
Donna Gennick wrote:
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Yes, it's there -- what I suspect you might have (and you can check
measurements and see) is a fuller bust (diagonal wrinkles) and/or wider
hips than the pattern called for.

--
Every job is a self-portrait of the person who does it.  Autograph your
work with excellence.

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