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Full bust adjustment? (x-posted)

Hi everyone,

I'm in need of your superb advice yet again! I'm a C cup (34 inches) and have come to the point where I'm no longer terrified of altering patterns and would like to fix up some that gape at the neckline, and sag under the bust. I'm told I need to do a full bust adjustment, and I found the instructions here

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but I'm a little unsure of a couple of things. First of all, how do I know how much to adjust by? And what if the top I am altering has no darts at the sides, i.e. a knit top? I've just made Butterick 3385 and while it's a lovely top, the neckline gapes and it's empire line with no darts at the sides, so I'm confused as to what to do there as well. Thanks so much again,

Katy M

Reply to
Miss-G-
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"Miss-G-" snipped-for-privacy@NOSPAMcyberchiq.com wrote

Do the alteration the same as in the diagram there, but instead of slashing from the bust point to the bust dart, slash from bust point to the stitching line of the armhole and swing the armhole around to accomodate the extra length. Generally a toile is used to determine the amount of spread needed across the bust but 1.5 - 2cm is generally adequate. You can leave the slash spread at the waist if you need the extra ease around that area or you can join it back together there. Don't forget to match the back of the pattern to the new front length.

If you have a large bust and a small waist you might find it worthwhile to look into curved darts, I find they are much more flattering than straight ones.

To get rid of the neckline gape, determine how much extra length there is on the neckline, and pinch this amount out of the line for the neck, smoothing the paper back towards the armhole or whatever edge is closest. If you don't get this explanation it's called a "gape dart" for reference.

HTH :)

-emma

Reply to
Mother Superior

Thankyou so much - that's exactly what I was looking for. I do have a large bust and a small waist so I will also look into curved darts. Thanks again!

Katy M

Reply to
Miss-G-

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