Height of Tables

I am setting up a separate cutting table. I've been using a cutting board spread out on my bed, but the more I sew the more it bothers my back. What are your opinions about the ideal height and width for a cutting table? I am 5'11" tall, and I cut about half with a rotary cutter and half with scissors. Xena

Reply to
La Vida Xena
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The comfortablr height for me is about 2 inches below the top of the hip bones. I hesitate to give a fixed height because with the variations in peoples height it can vary considerably. Mike in Wisconsin

Reply to
Mike Behrent

A standard counter top/table height is 36" and it works good for me, and most people I guess. But I am only 5' 7"!

Reply to
Warrior_13

No wonder your back hurts, Xena!

Mike's rule of thumb of 2" below the hipbones is good; naturally, this will vary with your height, and since you are somewhat taller than most the typical

36" counter height might be a tad short for you.

Some of the office supply stores sell adjustable height tables, and this might be your best solution. Look for one that adjusts up to 40" tall; I'm betting that, depending on how much of your height is in your legs, you'll need somewhere in the neighborhood of 37-39" of table height.

But even a 36" height will be more comfortable than leaning over the bed! And if you don't want the expense of buying a separate table, look for those rubbery bed risers to slip under your table's legs. They raise a regular dining-height table to just about 36".

Hope this helps! Karen Maslowski in Cincinnati

Reply to
SewStorm

A book I have on building ergonomic furniture says that a kitchen counter height is measured by holding your elbows tucked close to your sides, your fore arms straight out to the front ( you have now formed a right angle) and relaxing your hands ( another right angle in the opposite direction). The distance from your dangling finger tips to the floor is the right height for your kitchen counters. A work table (and also baby changing tables) used while standing, as your cutting table would be, is measured the same way except you hold your hands straight out forward (not dangling) and measure from the finger to the floor. This will give you a height that will save your back from strain.

Val

Reply to
Valkyrie

In one of the sew magazines I once read that a good measurement is----hold your elbows to your bodyside extend the lower arm part out .Measure 6 to 8 inches below your extended arm..That is the height the cutters keep the tabnles...I am 5ft 9 in. and it worked for me . I bought one of the office folding tables(mine is 6 ft long) with four legs then put height lifters under the four legs...It works like a charm and is inexpensive...Hope the info helps and isn't too confusing

-----as I am hold> I am setting up a separate cutting table. I've been using a cutting board

Reply to
Jeanette

Mike's 2" below the hip bones makes my ideal table height to be 40" Val's finger-dangle method takes it down to about 38" Pretty durn close! Cool! I started using a cutting board spread out on the bed because it gave me lots of room, and, unlike working on the diningroom table (29") I could close the door on the cats and I also was more likely to pick up everything when I was done. I'd thought that working on the dining room table hurt because of bending over it's width, but actually that was probably a height problem, too.

I'm going to take my own advice from posts a few weeks back and look for two book cases I can put on wheels and use as the ends of my table. There are inexpensive 36" tall melamine bookcases at Walmart that might be just the right height, after adding wheels and the thickness of the table top. I'll use a hollow core door for the top. The door will get decorated with something artistic, durable, and smooth so it will look at home hanging over the couch. When I get this done my back will hurt less and I'll have floor space more of the time. Ooo baby! VBG

Thanks everyone!

Xena

Reply to
La Vida Xena

Now that I've seen this, I am sure you won't mind if I "borrow" your idea :-) ?

Reply to
Poohma

I've been using a fold away table I picked up at Staples this past spring. It's great for working space when I'm sitting, but it's not very good for laying out and cutting - too short. So when Joanne's put their cutting table on sale this weekend, I bought one. 35"inches tall, and the ends fold down, legs move in, so it stores a lot easier. 'Course, now I can't just wheel around to the table, I'll have to actually stand up and walk over to it :>)

Sharon

Reply to
Sharon & Jack

I like Valkyrie's ergonomic idea. Another way to change the heigth (if you have short legs) is to add plastic plumbing pipes to the legs such as a folding table (plastic plumbing pipes are cheap and easy to cut). Width of table? Probably a couple of inches wider than the cloth when folded - that is if your cutting on the folded cloth. Length of table? About a couple inches longer than your cloth - for somebody bigger you can add an extenion (maybe like a dinning table). If too long for storage? Cut it in half and add 2 hinges and put a coulpe of slots for big long dowls or 2X4's to hold it straight for tipping up and added strength (this way you can slide it under a bed or behind a chest of draws or wall hanging).

Reply to
A

The reason I recommend 2 inches below the top of the hipbones is it's high enough to be comfortable but lets you bend over the table at the waist to reach across. That hieght works great for my back. I get very few backaches from it :) Mike in Wisconsin

Reply to
Mike Behrent

Your idea sounds good - probably better. Certainly do need to be able to reach out for cutting and bending is required. What ideas do you have for a pattern drafting table?

Reply to
A

lol poohma I am "borrowing" it from Martha Stuart, via a friend who saw it on tv. Said friend just happens to have a door leftover from her mini-remodel. She's been keen to see me get organized, and I am starting to catch on.

Hey Martha! MY hung up door will be the artistically upgraded version, because I am going to beautify the surface. I haven't decided exactly what will go on the door. I'd thought of stretching a canvas that's just big enough to slip over the door, or perhaps putting something poster-like directly onto it.

I'm also clearing out my livingroom closet. I have one of those wiretech shelf systems on wheels that fits nicely into the closet. It will hold the bins with my notions, pattern boxes and whatever on the shelves. I HOPE and plan that everything will be both easy to put away and easily accessible. When I start on a new project, I'll just roll out the top-o-the stash, pull down the table, and have at it. I want to have the whole thing come together by the end of the month. I can hardly believe I am really going to do it. My natural state while being creative has become downright nestlike. I used to love having everything at arm's reach, right where I expected it to be, and I look forward to the freedom that offers-- much less time and frustration sucked into looking for the bits and pieces.

Xena

Reply to
La Vida Xena

I hadn't thought of this, but by using a hollow core door I am choosing a length that will make a full length garment for anyone who can walk through doors. Nifty keen, guys.

Xena

Reply to
La Vida Xena

A drafting table is a drafting table. Making someting with a tilting top would be best. Not a very complicated project, piano hinge and supports on a framework. Height would depend on what you find comfortable. I find a flat table is uncomfortable for drawing. Mike in Wisconsin

direction).

Reply to
Mike Behrent

I cut mainly at my dining table, which is about this height, but I've also found a smallish cutting mat on top of my wide ironing table very useful. I adjust this in height, according to whether I want to exert pressure or not.

:) Trish

Reply to
Trishty

I go the other way around. 2 inches ABOVE the hip.:-)

Reply to
David Dawes

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