hem on wedding dress

Can someone tell me how much extra to cut (for hemming) on a satin wedding dress, and what would be the best stitch to use please?

Would the lining be cut the same length or shorter?

Thank you Katherine

Reply to
jones
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Is this for the Simplicity New Look 6468 you have written about recently? If so, as I recall, you are making it "longer". That pattern probably calls for a "narrow turned up twice and machine stitched hem". I would not do that for a wedding dress. Since it has a flared hemline, I'd suggest no more than 1"-1.5" hem allowance, and let the dress hang for a couple of days before someone helps you mark the hem. Then cut the hem allowance to the same depth all around, ease in the fullness, clean finish, and hem by hand, using a blind stitch.

The lining should be at least a half inch shorter, and it can probably be machine sewn, although a well done hand stitch would be nicer.

All of this depends a little on what the fabric is, too. If the fashion fabric is chiffon, I would do a hand rolled narrow hem.

Beverly

Reply to
BEI Design

Thanks for the reply Beverly, you have a good memory.

Yes it is that pattern, and the lining is sort of taffeta, but more lightweight that the old fashioned thicker one.

Yes you are right, if I was making a day dress I would just hem it normally. I would like to do this dress hand stitched hem. I don't mind doing that.

I will look up how to blind stitch. Thanks for the suggestion. Also I have decided to try and make spaghetti straps (as I would hate the dress to drop down to her waist:-) ) and found some transparent snaps, so she can decide if she will attach them or not.

She is now in another State and makes it hard for the fitting. I will take the dress to her a few days before the wedding, and hope and pray it all fits :-)

Thanks again Katherine

Reply to
jones

There are several very good instruction in my library of sewing books:

Roberta C. Carr "Couture the Art of Fine Sewing" p. 64

"The Vogue Sewing Book" c.1975 pages 337-339

Susan Khalje "Bridal Couture" pages 82-83

Susan E. Andriks "Bridal Gowns - How to Make the Wedding Dress of Your Dreams" pages 133-135

Adele P. Margolis "Fashion Sewing for Everyone" p. 60-62

Claire B. Shaeffer "Couture Sewing Techniques" pages 61-72

Reader's Digest "Complete Guide to Sewing" c.1995 p. 304 and for the lining p. 309

If you have room or budget for only one sewing book, I highly recommend the Reader's Digest "Complete Guide...".

Good illustrations and instructions on the bottom of this page:

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Reply to
BEI Design

Aaaaccckkk! Just read that again. If you are making a strapless dress, surely you have boned the bodice? If properly boned, the bodice would not droop.

Transparent snaps will *not* be strong enough to keep straps in place, you should be prepared to hand sew them in place if the bride decides they are necessary. Worst possible outcome would be if the bride reaches to hug someone and the snaps pop....

Also, that pattern does not appear to show yardage for a lining, so I assume you are adding one. Are you making it separate, so that it hangs free at the hem, or are you sewing the lining pieces all-in-one with the fashion fabric?

Beverly

Reply to
BEI Design

Now I remember what blind stitch is - thanks.

I didn't even feel confident in the first place making this dress, but my son told her I can sew, and she has no one else, and they are struggling financially (but I know they are sensible with money) - and well I find saying No and meaning it quite hard :-(

Lining - yes I will line it. Have the lining material already. That was my next question. Do I line it all in one, or attach it in strategic places only? Which would be the easiest to do.

The Burda pattern (where I took the bolero from), isn't very clear in the instructions for lining either.

At least I am weeding out pattern companies that aren't that good with their instructions.

When my wedding dress was made (by my auntie), it was almost neck to ankle :-) and puff long sleeves. I wish my DIL picked something with a bodice that won't have a chance to fall off :-)

ok I will forget the idea of straps and transp snaps :-)

Thanks again for all your help Beverly. Very much appreciated. I usually only just sew for myself.

Katherine

Reply to
jones

I would also find it hard to say no to a future DIL. You will do fine, and she'll love the dress. I bet she tells everyone at the wedding, "My mother-in-law made my gown!" :-)

For that dress, I would create a separate lining, then join the fashion fabric and lining at the top before you sew on the band. Leave the lining open for the zipper, and hand tack it after the zipper is sew in. And in that case, the lining will be free of the fashion fabric at the hem, so each will be hemmed separately, with the lining about 1/2" shorter than the outer fabric. You might want to make loose French tacks at each seam of the hem between the lining and the fashion fabric, so that the lining stays in place. Scroll about half way down this page for a description of loose French bar tacks:

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222.

If she really wants strapless, and you don't feel confident in boning the bodice, another option would be to sew the dress to the (hopefully well fitted) foundation she is going to wear. A few well placed stitches at the front, securing the dress to her strapless bra, would probably work fine, have her try both on, and use tiny safety pins to secure the anchor spots until you stitch it. Those stitches should be at the seam allowances, either in the lining only, or in the double fabric of the band seam allowance. This could be done well before the wedding, provided that she can still get hooked into the bra, or just do it while it's on her the day of the wedding. You'll do well to make up a "Day-of-the-Wedding Sewing Repair Kit", with some needles, tiny silver safety pins, buttons, spot remover, etc., and she'll love you for it.

You are very welcome, Good Luck! This is a wonderful opportunity to cement a loving relationship with your future DIL, I admire you for taking it on.

Beverly

Reply to
BEI Design

Beverly,

You are such a motivator. Thank you for the added boost of confidence.

Will keep you informed, and thanks a million for all the tips.

Looks like I will be by HER side on the day of the wedding, and not my son's.:-)

She is a sweet young thing, only 5ft tall with corkscrew curls and a beautiful smile. Inside she is nice too :-)

Katherine

"BEI Design" <

Reply to
jones

Thanks Bev,

That url is soooo interesting.

Katherine

You might want to make loose

Reply to
jones

I'm sure she thinks you're very nice, too, for stepping in and doing this for her. Sounds like you each found a lovely new in-law. ;-)

Beverly

Reply to
BEI Design

You're welcome, Kath.

BevERLY

Reply to
BEI Design

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