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Hemming hints needed please

Wondering if I could pick the brains of the more experienced "formal wear" sewists here.

My brother's family was visiting with us last week (they live in DC) and my DSIL picked up a drop-dead gorgeous dress for her daughter at the 2nd hand store. It's a lovely acetate (75%) & rayon (25%) blend in a deep fuschia color, with a delightful beaded bodice. It has spaghetti straps. I have already taken it in a bit on one side (it stuck out where it shouldn't, looked like they hiccuped when doing the seam) and it now fits the neices' figure like a glove. It has a unusual front; there is extra fabric on each side that comes together in the front of the dress when standing still but, when she walks it 'flares out' to either side. It's quite lovely.

Anyway, It needs to be hemmed 1-1/4" all the way around, and the spaghetti straps need to be taken in a bit.

Like the loving aunt I am, I have volunteered to do the alteration. (Which I pray I will not regret.) She wants to wear it to her junior prom in October, so I have some time to tackle this.=20

Now, I've hemmed and altered many, many garments before and even made my own prom dresses back in the dark ages....but never an acetate rayon.

The hem is narrow, and looks like it would be prone to shifting while sewing (resulting in a wavy hem) if I am not careful - it is a narrow hem (I am guessing a 2mm).

Does any one have pointers or hints on narrow hemming of acetate/rayon?

Also, can I safely iron acetate/rayon?=20

-Irene

Reply to
IMS
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Dear Irene,

Acetate is a thermoplastic fiber. (It melts with heat.) It also changes color with heat, and sometimes doesn't return to the original color. It needs to be carefully handled. If I were doing the hemming, I would cut off all but 1/4 inch and roll-hem the edge. And I'd do it by hand. With a cool iron, press the 1/4 inch to the wrong side. Then, using a single thread, fold over the hem so that the finished hem will be 1/8 inch. You can finger press as you sew to turn it under. Pick up one thread of the skirt with each stitch, and keep the stitches 1/8 inch apart. The resultant hem won't show, and will look very professional.

When all of the sewing is done, either steam it yourself, or send it to the dry cleaners for steaming. Don't try to iron it. Good luck! She'll look gorgeous!

Teri

Reply to
gjones2938

Terry,

Thank you so much for your response and for the ironing warning. The hemming sounds very doable and I don't feel quite so anxious about it now :)

-Irene

Reply to
IMS

Irene wrote: ...

...

With narrow straps, I would consider threading some elastic through them. Wearing ease, helps them do their job, and ideally won't look too crinkly/gathered.

HTH

--Karen D.

Reply to
Veloise

I'll 2nd the elastic in the spg. straps. I use elastic thread ... 2 or 3 lines. You can't see it and you don't put enough in there to cause gathers. Maybe it's just my shoulders, I find spg. straps slide around a bit no matter how much I shorten them. Putting the elastic in the straps keeps them from sliding off.

Reply to
Knit Chic

You do not *have* to replicate the original narrow hem. You could turn up a 1.25" hem, clean finish the edge and use a hand blind stitch to sew the hem in place. If you really feel the need to replicate the narrow hem, I would suggest a hand-rolled hem:

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think machine-stitched narrow hems are for quick-and-dirty finishes. Beverly

Reply to
BEI Design

Dear Beverly,

A true hand-rolled hem on this fabric would be next to impossible. It would end up in shreds from her thumb. My description, done by hand, not machine, is the next best and resembles a hand-rolled hem when done.

The weight on the hem would make a 1-1/4-inch hem show and pucker.

Teri

Reply to
gjones2938

Inspecting the fabric last night and rolling it with my thumb/forefinger, it ideed looked as though it would indeed ravel away pretty easily. Not to mention the need for a good size magnifying glass to see what I am doing :)

I truly appreciate the hints I have gotten so far; having never hemmed this type of fabric and it is great to have a resource such as this group to look to!

-Irene

Reply to
IMS

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