hemming question

their is usually an edegstitched opening on one of the the sleeve linings; open this and make all your alterations from insdie the jacket by pulling it inside out through this gap. Make careful note of hem alowances and places where the cuff is stitched, interfaced etc. and copy all this on to your shortened sleve hem. you may ned to adjust eam allowances to cater for the fact that the end of your sleeve will now be wider. Liz.

hemming question

Liz posted a good, basic answer. I have seen _at least_ 50 methods of sleeve construction, and copying what you are altering is the best way to proceed, as fabrics are cut and shaped in odd ways at times. If the sleeve end has a bias trim insertion, then the inner cuff allowance is probably a separate piece, with the bias tape inserted between the pieces? If so, you may have to re-use this cuff allowance, unless you are shortening the sleeve end enough to turn in an allowance--usually 2 to 2 & 1/2 inches. General info: If the allowance is narrower than the sleeve it is being turned up into, simply open the raw end of the allowances before replacing the wigan (interfacing). Do be sure to use/replace interfacing or wigan, usually cut on the bias for flexibility. Sew the wigan to the raw end of the fabric seam allowance, not to the actual fold of the jacket fabric itself. Never sew the turned in allowance, just tack the seam allowance at underarm seam to hold the hem in place, Tacking, combined with the shorter lining, holds the hem in place, Lining usually has a small fold allowed, just above where it is joined to the turned-in sleeve hem, for the sleeve to flex during arm movement. This fold keeps the sleeve from riding up uncomfortably. It shouldn't be so deep a fold that it hangs below the finished sleeve end. HTH. Cea