How difficult does this pattern look?

I'm I don't know, somewhere inbw a beginner and an intermediate sewer. I have an upcoming wedding to go to and I'd like to make this dress for it.

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How difficult doesit look? Also does anyone have any experience with New Look? Do theirpatterns run large? Easy to make? etc.Thanks a bunch! :)

Reply to
ena86
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You might not want to make the view with the neckline slit. IMHO the dress doesn't need it and the slot might be tough to carry off (due to jewelry, neckline height, other factors). THIS IS JUST MY OPINION!!!!

[sorry, got carried away by the uncouth reply in the ugly wedding dress thread]

My favorite trick is to make dresses out of big bold distinctive prints. That way anyone who sees it is looking at the flowers rather than the topstitching.

HTH

--Karen D.

Reply to
Veloise

yup that's the one i was thinking of!

Reply to
ena86

Hi! It looks like the construction would not be difficult but that's pretty form fitting, so I suggest making a mock-up in some inexpensive muslin or an old sheet first to see how it fits and where you might have to make adjustments. =20

-Irene

-------------- You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.=20

--Mae West=20

--------------

Reply to
IMS

It's hard to tell from the drawing, but it looks like the neckline of that style is composed of two overlapping pieces. (What's that called again?) That's easier to execute and more sturdy than a slot in a continuous piece. It would be good to tack it closed to prevent gapping when you bend. Also, on the model the dot print rotates 45 degrees between the top and the skirt, so it may have a bias-cut skirt. Have you done one of those? It's good to inform yourself ahead of time what to expect, since they can be rather fussy. They're not for the easily frustrated, but not super advanced either. Choosing the right fabric can help that work out well. [Actually, have you worn one of them before? They hug the body more closely than a regular grain skirt of equivalent shape. Shows off slender figures, or every bulge if you're self-conscious.] The cap sleeves don't meet all the way under the arm (what's *that* called again?). That's marginally more complicated to do than a regular sleeve, but sure does look cute. The armhole edge might be finished with a facing, or possibly a bias strip. Just wanted to call your attention to that.

It's super pretty.

Pora

Reply to
wurstergirl

I made up a New Look pattern last year for a wedding. It went together well - all the pieces were the right size and fitted each other. I found the instructions OK to follow -there was only one place I didn't do what they said to do.

As to how easy your pattern is - I don't know - check the back of the packet and/or instructions to see if that bodice is lined - and how, and what other interesting constuction quirks there are.

A test dress in cheap fabric could be the way to go!

Sarah

Reply to
Sarah Dale

Actually, I think that it's the *bodice* that's cut on an angle, so that the neckline edge is on-grain. I don't think that it's a bias cut skirt.

This is a place where pulling the pattern instruction sheet out of the envelope before you buy it would be useful. Then you'd know how the armhole edges are finished, and how the bodice is cut.

jenn

-- Jenn Ridley : snipped-for-privacy@chartermi.net

Reply to
Jenn Ridley

Views A, D & E are the ones with the surplice bodice. I'd not suggest those unless you were more sure of your skills. B or C would go together pretty easily I think. I have never had a problem with New Look patterns. They have always fit me well and the whole pattern has worked well.

Sharon

Reply to
Sharon Hays

I'm actually thinking of doing view E-- why would that bodice be more difficult? Also, the bodice is lined-- will that pose a problem?

Reply to
ena86

I've done a bias cut skirt before, so that shouldn't be a problem. I am a little worried about the sleeves... If it's a "half" cap, will that pose more of a problem? If it's more complicated than I can handle, I might just do the version of the dress without the sleeves... but you're they, they're super cute!

Reply to
ena86

Because you have 2 front pieces to deal with. Not only do you have to line up the bust darts (or in this case gathers) properly but you have to get the pieces lapped correctly. It's tricky. And you wind up with 8 layers of fabric at the "waistline" in front, some of that gathered. You will have to be sure to remove as much bulk from the seam allowances as possible.

It's not a terribly difficult dress to make. But since you asked would this be an easy pattern, the answer is B or C would be the easiest. View A would be something of a challenge because you would have the surplice bodice to deal with as well as the Mandarin collar. View D would be a pain with the bias binding around the neckline. View E also has the half cap sleeves. The sleeve piece will not go all the way around the armhole opening. You will need to be VERY careful about making sure you mark all the alignment points on that. Also, that kind of cap sleeve can be unflattering if you don't have Jada Pinkett-Smith arms. It hugs closer to the upper arm than a normal t-shirt sleeve. It also really points directly to any tricep flab you may have. The flutter sleeve on C is a lot more attractive (much softer!) Also, easier to do. Again, you would need to be extremely careful about marking alignment points as the sleeve doesn't go all the way around. And the only other challenge to a flutter sleeve like that is the very narrow hem it will need. But it looks a whole lot better on the body.

As far as the lined bodice.... It's not a problem. It will raise the difficulty level some. I would suggest self lining it, in other words, line it with the same fabric from which you are making the dress. I would also suggest, regardless of what the pattern says, that you understitch the lining. That will make it turn in so much nicer. That's what I did on my DD's spring formal (which had a very similar style bodice.) You may be able to understitch the whole neckline on the machine with this one. If the bodice were unlined, it would not look nearly as nice.

Sharon

Reply to
Sharon Hays

I'm going to look at the pattern instructions right now. Get back to you on the specifics.

Pora

Reply to
wurstergirl

Ok. so the math brain is slow today... That should be 4 layers of bodice plus the skirt layer at the front waistline. Still need to reduce as much of the bulk as you can. lol

Sharon

Reply to
Sharon Hays

Sharon, if it's fully lined you were correct: eight layers of bodice and lining (for the surplice front, counting the fashion fabric [2] + lining [2] X 2 [seam allowance] PLUS at least one layer of skirt (assuming it's unlined). And the neckline edge seam increases it another 2 layers at that point.

Even if not fully lined, the facing at the neck edge would give the same number of layers of fabric....

HTH ;-)

Beverly

Reply to
BEI Design

Okay, I've looked at the instructions. It turns out that the skirt is bias cut and the bodice is straight grain. It's been a long time since I did a surplice (that's the word!) bodice and Sharon's points about aligning the front are good.

My biggest concern is that the pattern gives little provision for dealing with the skirt. It says the total skirt wearing ease is 6

1/2", which must be some attempt at compensating. The last time I did a bias skirt the pattern gave 4" seam allowances everywhere and I was glad. This dress also has a center back zipper, which will go from straight grain to bias. Does anyone else think this is challenging for a beginner-intermediate sewist? Definitely a good learning experience, but one should be warned to have a lot of patience. The pattern also doesn't mention the importance of pinning the skirt and letting it hang overnight and then readjusting the pins the next day. It's good to wear the dress and have a friend redo the pins.

It might help to tell us your skills and what you've made before.

As an aside regarding sleeve styles, my own body kind of does the opposite of Sharon's description. Because of a heavy bust and sloping shoulders, flutter sleeves add volume and make me look heavy and slouchy. Cap sleeves bring the lines higher like a gentle shoulder pad and keep things looking trim. Flutter sleeves can enhance lean figures by adding volume and movement.

Pora

Reply to
wurstergirl

sorry for the multiple questions... you're all so helpful! :)

What's understitching? and why would it be important to do on this garment?

It doesn't seem as easy I thought it would be, but I'm always up for a challenge. I picked up some crepe backed satin, so I hope that was a good choice.

Reply to
ena86

If you look on my site, you'll see a full explanation plus pictures. Look in The Learning Zone. :) URL below.

Safe site - I'm not selling anything!

Reply to
Kate Dicey

Don't apologize for asking questions. It's the smart thing to do when you don't know!

And if you haven't done understitching before, it would be a very good idea to practice doing it on the trial garment that several posters have encouraged you to make. A 'muslin', as it is often called, will let you know how the pattern fits you, and any adjustments that might need to be made, before you cut into your more expensive fabric; and learning the valuable technique of understitching will definitely be easier on cotton fabric than on crepe backed satin.

Best of luck with your dress. The pattern you've chosen is very attractive.

Doreen in Alabama

Reply to
Doreen

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