how to cut a pattern on the bias

When I cut my jersey sports bra out of bias-cut linen, it fit properly the first time.

When I tried making matching briefs from a pattern that works with the same jersey, it took three betas to make it fit. The first one, I tried it on before sewing the side seams, measured the gap, then inserted a piece of three-inch bias tape. Added an inch and a half at the sides of the pattern; this one was too loose, but wearable. Trimmed a bit and the third was just right -- or as close as I thought possible.

Then I put the perfected pattern away, because I don't honestly *want* linen underpants. But I'm still wearing linen bras.

Looked at the pattern and love the pattern - but it says FOR KNIT and they're not kidding. You could probably create the garment by cutting a woven on the bias but I'm not so sure you could get into it - or move about if you did. Polly

That center front seam may become an issue, sewing bias seams can be ... squiggly. And I doubt bias would give you the ease you need getting in and out of it. As well, a bias-cut garment droops lengthwise and draws in side-to-side when worn, and you really have to build in some extra width to accommodate that.

I would probably look for either another pattern or a knit.

I'd be hesitant to use good woven fabric on that experiment... especially view A. If I were going to, I'd probably go up a size for the woven, and make sure the bias is cut so that it will balance and not pull the seams spirally. If you imagine cutting it from a striped fabric, you want to cut so the stripes would form chevrons at the seamlines -- sort of like this:

The drape is also going to change on view D... the side seams will be nearly straight of grain, which will mean the fullness will hang center front and back.

Kay

My thanks to 'Polly', Joy, Beverly & Kay for their help and observations. I'll take their advice and stick with the jersey. I had such a pleasing result first time around without any hassle, so I don't want to fight with the fabric to get a decent fit! Keep life simple.....

thanks again best Anne H. - who's off to shop for fabric tomorrow.