lengthening Butterick 5423

You can do it, Anne. Add in whatever length you need right at where the button/buttonhole happens. This would be a good time to do what our Kate calls 'make a muslin' - that is, test the alteration with some fabric that you can afford to waste. The muslin will let you know how your addition looks. Go for it. Polly

OK. Are you lengthening for fit or for style? I have to shorten almost every thing between the shoulder and the bust line. That fits my short torso the best. So are you lengthening to accommodate a fitting issue? If so, that will determine where you need to add length.

If it's just style, then I would cut horizontally across the pattern and add what a want at these places: A or B, below the "lapels;" C at about the waistline; and D below that lower button. Just use that middle portion of the front piece, where the curve isn't narrowing or widening, and extend that the length of what you add. Then just "reattach" the original bottom.

The only "rules" I know about this thing are add/remove where you need the fit or where it looks like it will make sense. Remember if you lengthen it past the hips, you will had to add fullness to the body of the jacket. But that doesn't mean you have to add fullness to the treatment on the front where the curved part is. Make sense?

Sharon

I can understand why you want to lengthen this pattern.. The drawings show it mid-hip length, but click the picture of the garment on real people, it is barely below waist level.

Patterns often have a "shorten or lengthen here" line printed on the pattern pieces, I take it this one does not?

I would draw a horizontal line across *all* the front pieces (body, facings, linings, vertical front band) about waist level, or whereever there is the least amount of shaping curves, cut each one across, and spread the pattern pieces the desired amount. Re-join the pieces using scraps of pattern paper or light weight non-woven interfacing (my choice for pattern alterations) You may have to re-draw a slightly different curve to connect the cutting lines vertically in their new position.

At that point you might want to make the entire coat up in inexpensive fabric to be sure you get the look you want, as it would not be possible to shorten the finished garment.

This site has useful pattern alteration instructions:

Split it in the place(s) you need more length. Splice in the extra tissue. Redraw the front curve smoothly. If the bust shaping (not that there's much of it) is in the right place for you, I'd add the length just below the bust, where the curve is relatively straight right now anyhow.

Cut a quick fitter in newspaper or something cheap and check the fit.

Kay

Yes, you're right ... I just need to go for it! When looking at the pattern pieces all I see are the problems of trying to retain a proper curve and making appropriate matches on both pattern pieces. Thanks for the 'muslin' route idea - I've good some real awful fabric that I'd be happy to sacrifice.

best Anne H.

It's for style really. The hem would cut across my beam so to speak - I'd prefer it to be hip length.

Initially I'm aiming at D, although I like the other views. And yes, I was concerned about the rejoining so that the curve would stay a uniform width. Your suggestion of placement helps solve my dilemma.

Indeedy.... many thanks

best Anne H.

Exactly!

This pattern has shorten & lengthen lines on the sleeves but not on front, front side or back.

The marked waist line falls in the area of the lower front band so I need to get above that to retain an equal width curve. There is a vertical grain line marked on both front pattern pieces, so that should help me get a horizontal line.

Yes, I'm now convinced that that's the way forward for me..... I'd never end up with anything wearable any other way!

I'd bookmarked that site when it was mentioned here once before - perhaps by you?

Beverly - many thanks for your help, much appreciated.

best Anne H.

Yes, it's finding the straightest part of the curve so that I retain an even width... plus the curves on both pattern pieces (when laid flat) do not, of course, exactly mirror each other. I'll finagle it.

I'll be doing the 'muslin' thing and hopefully, will end up with a jacket I can wear.

Many thanks for your help best Anne H.