Lutterloh system

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After many years I came across the German system my mother had in the
60's, I was surprised to find it still exists. So I had to buy it and
have begun sewing with it again, really fun. But I can't seem to
figure out if you use both bust and hip measurement for making skirts.
I made one skirt where I used just the hip measurement, but if
following the video instructions strictly, you would think that the
waist dots should be made according to your bust measurement. Anyone
know definitively what you're supposed to do when drafting a skirt.

Re: Lutterloh system
Dear Deek,

You use the hip measurement.  The waist is made smaller by your waist
measurement--it has nothing to do with the bust measurement.


Re: Lutterloh system
Thanks, Teri, that takes care of a nagging question. Do you have any
experience with working with pleats? Some of the patterns have actual
drafted pleat pieces and then others give approximations.

Re: Lutterloh system
I recall one of my students using precious lace to make a pleated
skirt.  She didn't ask before cutting, and couldn't figure out why the
pleats splayed over the hips.  She used the waist measurement.  Your
pleats should hang flat over the hips, so start with the hip
measurement, determine how much is needed for each pleat and how many
pleats.  Remember to add extra for the closure.  I usually allow an
extra pleat's worth, so that the last pleat will have a fold-back, and
the first pleat will meet the edge of the fold-back for an invisible


Re: Lutterloh system

Quoted text here. Click to load it

I pleat the paper and draw the pattern on it.  

When I don't just pleat a rectangle onto the band. bodice, or

Or, my nightshirt:  I folded the fabric in half, put the pattern
against the selvages, nipped off the corner according to the shape of
the armhole, and pleated the full width of the flannel (minus what was
cut away for the armhole) onto the yoke.  

The sleeves for the nightshirt:  I put the pattern at one edge of half
the fabric, with the corner on the selvage and the top tangent to a
line about an inch from the torn edge, marked one side of the arch at
the top, blended it into the torn edge, moved the pattern to the other
edge and repeated, cut on the marked line (which left a great deal of
torn edge in the middle), then pleated the sleeve into the armhole
instead of easing it in.  I've done the same thing, but gathered
instead of pleated, to make a short, very wide summer-shift sleeve.  

You have to follow the original pattern outside the notches to make it
fit under the arm, but there is a great deal of leeway in the pleated
part in the middle.  But it does need a bit more cap height to balance
the fullness.

Joy Beeson
joy beeson at comcast dot net -- sewing
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
Re: Lutterloh system
That's a big help, thanks. I have a dress I want to make for my
daughter's wedding that has pleats around the base of the dress and
just was not sure about how to get it pleated perfectly for the skirt
circumference. The pattern only shows the pleat widths and an
approximation for the total size of the pattern piece. Pleating the
paper first to fit will do the trick. Thanks so much.


Re: Lutterloh system

Here's another trick for a pleated ruffle:  

Mark the hem into as many parts as you want pleats.  

Put the same number of marks on the ruffle, spacing them farther
apart.   You can use how full you want the ruffle to be to decide how
far apart to make the marks, or you can divide all the ruffle you've
got into as many parts as you have marks.  (This is *much* easier if
the number is a power of two, so that you can mark by repeatedly
folding in half.)  

Pin together at the marks, with pins at right angles to the edges.  

Fold at each pin.  Smooth the folds and stick a pin near the edge, and
one well away to make the fold stay folded.  

Add seam-line pins as required and pull out pins that cross the seam
line.  Stitch.

Joy Beeson
joy beeson at comcast dot net -- sewing
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.

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