Making Neckties

The shirts look marvelous, Serge. Very nice work! Good luck with the ties. That's one thing I've never attempted, so I have no advice for you. It's been discussed here a few times over the years so I know there are folks here that know how to make them well. ;) Just be a little patient for your answer. I think quite a few folks are staying off the group awhile and waiting for the trolls to go back to school or at least away from here. :(

Sharon

Dear Serge,

Neckties was one of the first projects my accessories students made in class. We used old ties that were dirty, had holes, but were the type and shape that the individual student wanted. We took them apart, saved the the wool fleece from the inside because we are in a rural area and cannot find this type of fleece. You probably won't have the same problem, but if you do, the wool fleece in the ties is just the right size. Observe how the tie is put together--that's just how you should do it. Carefully press the facings at the ends of the tie, and press the tie out flat. When you place it on your new fabric, make sure that the grain is exactly the same as the sacrificed tie. The facings can be cut from rayon or silk lining fabric. I prefer silk. Or if they're in good condition, you can use the facings you removed. Sew the facings to the tie ends. Do not sew the sides of the facings. Do not trim, but miter the ends, just as the original tie was mitered. Turn the facings right side out and carefully press. Next, with the right side facing your ironing board (or other padded surface), place the fleece on the wrong side, just as it was in the original. Press in 3/8 inch on one long side of the tie. Fold over the other side the entire length of the tie, including the faced ends. At this point, you want to make sure that the ends are perfect points before you press. When you're satisfied, press down the unfinished edge the full length, then fold the other end over it and press it. The finished (pressed under) edge should be centered on the wrong under side of the tie. You can pin now, along the center of the under side of the tie. As you can see, this is more a pressing operation than it is a sewing operation. It will take you less than an hour to complete the tie. Now, hand sew with a slip stitch this center seam, occasionally catching the fleece to hold it in place. You're done. My students used all sorts of fabrics for their ties, not just tie fabric, which is impossible to find anywhere around here. Have fun!!

The correct interfacing's going to be the tough part. I haven't seen any of the nice lambswool for years.

Here's Kathleen Fasanella's post on tie making, by sewing machine:

Dear Kay,

I've had expert sewists give up after trying to make a tie with a machine. I think it has something to do with working with bias, and having to get perfect points to have a quality tie. Good ties are still made the way I described above. They are even made with a chain stitch machine so that if a favorite (very expensive) tie is soiled, it can be taken apart and cleaned. The lamb's wool is a problem-- that's why I had my students re-use the interfacing from the old tie. If it can't be found, there is a thin poly fleece that can be used, and holds up just as well as the wool.

Teri

Fools rush in, etc., etc.... I made ties from an old commercial pattern in the 70s, most of the work done on the machine (an ancient White straight stitcher), with only the back of the tie sewn by hand.

Found one of them a couple of years ago -- construction was pretty decent. Major problem was the fabric, which had deteriorated badly -- acetate, I suspect.

I think you're right... you really do have to have a light touch working with bias, and I suspect there's no hope if the machine doesn't have adjustable presser foot pressure.

Kay

this thread reminded me of a salesman who used to visit an office where I worked in the 70s. He wore ties that matched his shirts. When I asked him where he purchased them, he told me that his wife made them......shirt and tie.

Both items were meticulously made.

I made a dark gray wool suit for my DH, and lined it with a gorgeous red paisley silk. I made him a tie and pocket-hankie from the lining fabric. Later, I did the same thing for my DSIL, but his suit was dark blue wool, and the lining was navy blue and cream silk jacquard.

Beverly

What did you use for the interfacing? I emailed Coffin and he gave me this link:

but I'm not sure I want to go thru the shipping/customs hassol for 2yards of it. And there's nothing like it that I can find in thestates...

These were 30 and 25 years ago respectively, I honestly don't remember what I used. It was a Vogue pattern, so I suppose I used whatever it called for. I do not recall that it was anything extraordinary, so...???

Both men used those ties many tmes over the next several years.

Beverly

Dear Serge,

The fleece I mentioned earlier can be used as a replacement for the interfacing. And you don't want tailor's canvas. That's used for interfacing in men's jackets, not ties. If you can find it, you want lamb's wool fleece. If you can't, find the polyester fleece. It looks somewhat like felt, but just a little thicker, but not heavy. And it stands up to being twisted and knotted.

Teri