Ok, I've decided to get this pattern (its a chef's coat with a mandarin collar) to try to make a casual jacket with. I'll have to change it from a big block to something more to my shape. Just wondering how to line it, as I'm sure it doesn't have a lining.
its got two-piece sleeves. What is that going to do to me? I've only sewn shirt sleeves.
You can create a lining by using the basic pattern pieces, remove about 1/2" from the *hem* of all pieces, add a 1-1/2 in tuck (for ease) in center back at the top, tapering to nothing at the hem (tack at the waist), and altering the front by overlaying the front facing, tracing the *seam* line and adding seam allowances to the front edge. If you look at the instruction sheet (and the illustration of the pattern pieces) of a pattern for a lined jacket you'll get a good idea of what I mean.
I really love two-piece sleeves for jackets of any kind, they fit and fall so much better. Just mark the notches well, you should not have a problem, and the lining pieces really only need to be a bit shorter.
Good luck!
Beverly
I found this site with fairly good illustrations and instructions:
Chefs need freedome of movement. The closer to the arm shape the sleeve is, the better the freedom of movement.
You'll see that the pattern pieces are more curved than a shirt sleeve: this gives you greater freedom of movement and a better fit with the stiffer fabrics, the same way it would in a tailored suit.
Actually, I was wondering if it was going to give me fits sewing it to the shell.
Thanks.
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Have you done a set in sleeve before? You said shirt sleeves, but you may have done flat construction on those. Difference: Flat construction you sew the sleevehead to the side of the shirt matching the center of the sleevehead to the shoulder seam, then sew the underarm and side seams all at once; set in sleeves you sew the shoulder seam, sew the side seam and sew the underarm seam separately, then gather the sleeve head to match the armscye (opening where your arm goes into the sleeve) and stitch around to join the sleeve to the shirt.
It's really not hard to do a set in sleeve, but you do want to sew carefully. Use all the notches and circles on the pattern tissue on the fabric for both the shirt body and the sleeve. That will help you line everything up correctly. Also, gather the sleevehead before you sew the underarm seam (or both the seams on the sleeve in this case.) It's easier to get those gathering stitches in there while the sleeve piece is flat. Do run 2 lines of gathering stitches (without letting them overlap each other.) That way when you pull the bobbin thread, if one breaks you still have the other. :) I also like to do the actual joining of the sleeve and the body with the sleeve against the feed dogs of my machine. When you need to join two pieces with one larger than the other, try to work with the larger piece against the feed dogs. That will help ease it all together. Last tip, when you go to line things up before you sew, line up the Stitching lines on both pieces.
Once you have the two pieces of the sleeve assembled, it's not any different to put in from any other kind of sleeve. So don't be skeert of it. ;)
Sharon
Yeah, I've only done the flat comstruction of sleeves until now.
Just an additional recommendation: this is one construction step where basting would be a very good idea. Basting may be an anathema to many sewists, but I'm not embarrassed to admit that I often baste sleeves in before stitching, and I've been sewing 60 years.
Doreen in Alabama
It's not a bad idea at all. :) Thanks for remembering it for me. I don't baste every sleeve I put in, but if it's contrary fabric, like something slippery, basting is a wonderful thing!!
Sharon
I often baste them: much easier to rip out at a fitting if I need to adjust the fit. :)
Yup, I do that on sleeves often. Mostly pinning now, but have basted.
Well, looks like I lucked out this time. Though its a two piece sleeve, its being done like that for formation of a notch in the cuff, it looks like. Doesn't look like there's a curve to the sleeve, but then again, its showing everything flat. Could still be a curve. It's not an inset sleeve. Its a flat construction sleeve, like I know how to do.
For various interpretations of "lucked out". I think making a tailored jacket with flat construction method for the sleeve insertion is a Very Bad Thing®! I really think you would be well served finding a more tailored *jacket* pattern and altering the collar.
Beverly
Easy for you to say! ;-)
I'm not necessarily looking for a "tailored" jacket. I want a casual jacket. Maybe its the same thing, I don't know.
Adapting a shirt pattern I can do with confidence at this point. Adapting a pattern for something I've never constructed before....a bit daunting.
Ok, taking your advice, I happened upon this:
Except that it ends at the waist, and there are just *no* details about lining, type of sleeve, etc.. Hard to tell about any details from that sketch.
IIRC, you are trying to make something like:
Beverly
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