Newbie: I still need help, please!

If you go to your local library and check out a couple of books on sewing and maybe a sewing video, it will probably tell you most of the answers to your sewing questions. If not, go to a dept store---Wal Mart if you are in the US, and back in the crafts dept there will be a general sewing book that will answer your questions. Cost is about $15 or less. Best bet is to ask if a co worker knows anything about sewing and if that person will help you one afternoon.

Look for a machine that does a blind hem stitch. There's a tutorial about doing blind hems on my web site - look here:

You'll see a stitch diagram. Look for a machine with that symbol on it. You'll be looking for a machine made from the late 60's onwards.

Being male makes no odds. Being willing to learn does! You have shown the second characteristic, which is excellent.

If you want to hem things like jeans, or replace tent zips (I've just started some heavy duty zip replacement!), you'll need more than a small light machine! Little machines do not have the power in the motor to punch through tough fabrics. The Sewing Genie might put a needle through light shirt fabric, but won't cope with anything more than that. The sewing Genie works on 4 AA batteries: for denim hems I like a 90 watt motor! Try running one of those on 4 AA batteries!

Stay away from Singers made between 1964 and 2004! Most were badged junk, and you don't have 30 lifetimes to look through them all to find the elusive gem...

Used Berninas, Elnas, Necchi, and Frister & Rossman should all be worth looking at, as will Viscounts made up to about 1995, Husqvarna Vikings (rather like lesser spotted rockinghorse droppings, those!), and Toyotas.

I tend to avoid Brother (they have a reputation for being very innovative, and cramming a lot into a cheap machine, but their reliability is dubious in my experience - I've seen way too many in the back shop at my dealers). Avoid the newer Silvers made in the Middle East - reliability sucks. Try before you buy: take samples of the fabrics you want to sew with you and test the stitches you most want to use.

If you MUST have a new machine, and want to sew anything tougher than medium weight wool suiting, you are looking at £500+. For light weight sewing and a good range of stitching, ease of operating, and light in weight, I was very pleased with the Singer 117 Featherweight II I recently bought my mum - a 75 YO granny with rheumaticky thumbs, and nowhere to leave the machine out if she needs her desk for office stuff (she'd secretary of her housing complex management committee). Stitch quality was excellent, penetration on 4 layers of cotton twill trousering was good, and the blind hem and buttonholes were excellent. It was under £200. My mum is unlikely to make/hem/repair jeans, tents, curtains, or upholstery, or to make patchwork quilts. If she was into any of those, I would not have bought her this machine!

If you really want a little machine, I like the Frister & Rossman Cub series (made in the 70's and early 80's), and I adore the Elna Lotus. For price, look for the F&R - Elna Lotuses are going for silly prices! Especially those with more than the basic zigzag, and you really want that blind hem stitch.

You are very welcome. If you need more, just ask.

Here's a 'so you want to buy a sewing machine' FAQ that I found on Google:

This FAQ applies to new and used machines:=20

Here is a compilation of a lot of what others have already about buying=20 a first machine, plus a couple of other comments. This FAQ also=20 applies to those who are in the market for a new machine, having used=20 one particular model for a few(?) years. Many thanks to Salley Holmes=20 and Lee Hinton for helping me get this together.=20

=46irst, if you're considering buying a machine as a gift for someone=20 else, the consensus is that you should give, perhaps, a card or a spool=20 of thread as a token of your willingness help to enable the recipient=20 to choose the machine that suits him/her best. By all means do some=20 homework to help him/her to narrow the choice down, but a sewing=20 machine is a personal item that should be chosen by the person who's=20 going to use it. Here are some questions to ask yourself before you=20 shop:=20

- How and what do you sew? Are you interested in sewing clothes, home=20 decor items (slipcovers, curtains, etc.), sports costumes like skating,=20 etc.=20

- Do you want an embroidery machine? IS IT SOMETHING YOU WOULD USE OR=20

JUST SOMETHING YOU WANT? This is an important distinction to make.=20

- What feature(s) would you use and need? (Why pay money for=20 things you don't need and don't want?) If you do mostly quilting, then=20 maybe you only need a few stitches rather than a whole array of=20 stitches.=20

- How easy it is for you to learn programming (a must in some machines)?

- How large a machine do you want (will you be taking it places), does=20 it pack up easily if you need to take it someplace?=20

- What kind of classes are given?=20

- Does it have a freearm and do you need one, what kind of extra feet=20 are available that you need, etc.=20

- Do I need a machine that can be updated with new cards, attachments,=20 programs, etc.?=20

- Warranty=20

Now, which machine is the best one?=20

There's no such thing as the one best machine just as there's no such=20 thing as the one best car. This FAQ can only give general advice because there are so many sewing machine manufacturers and models out there.=20 Once you've narrowed your choices down you may be able to get advice on=20 specific models or even dealers from the alt.sewing,=20 rec.crafts.textiles.sewing, alt.sewing.mach-embroider (if you are=20 looking at embroidery machines) or uk.rec.crafts.sewing newsgroups.=20

Having said that, nearly every maker makes wonderful machines ... but=20 they all have had periods where they have made junk. You might want to=20 read your national consumer magazine to see if they have recently=20 reported on sewing machines - this would be a good place to at least=20 start. Sewing magazines occasionally run such features, too, so check=20 them. Remember, though, that no survey can cover all the available=20 machines, and that a sewing machine is a very personal item. What suits=20 a reviewer may not suit you. And talk to friends who sew to get their=20 opinion on which makes are reliable. After that, the person who is=20 going to use the machine should be the person to pick out what they=20 want, within the constraints of your budget, of course.=20

Your budget may limit your choices, but especially if you are new to=20 sewing, I would suggest going for an all purpose reliable machine with=20 fewer stitches rather than a machine with lots of stitches, but also=20 turns out to be picky about the type of thread you use, won't sew on=20 thick or thin fabrics, and sulks and chews the fabric up if you dare to=20 LOOK at it wrong. You need to know that your machine will be reliable=20 or learning to use it will be a very frustrating experience. Whilst=20 it's a waste of money to buy features you won't use, it's also false=20 economy to buy a machine that you'll "grow out of" if you can afford=20 one with more features.=20

Unless you get a fabulous bargain in a private sale, one thing to also=20 consider is the dealer from whom you buy. A good, honest, reliable=20 dealer can help make your sewing experience wonderful, and help you=20 pick the right machine for YOU. Some dealers offer a trade-in/trade-up=20 policy where if you decide after a few months that you'd like a fancier=20 machine, the dealer will credit all or a large part of the cost of your=20 initial purchase to a better machine. Don't be taken in by the claims=20 that all-metal interiors are better than plastic: there's cheap=20 plastic, which may crack and warp, and there's nylon, which is lighter=20 than and as hard-wearing as metal and doesn't need lubricating.=20

The most basic machines are straight-stitch only, and old ones can be=20 picked up very cheaply from sale rooms, some sewing machine dealers, and garage/car boot sales. The next step up is a machine that does zigzag=20 stitching. The basic zigzag machines usually do some sort of blind hem=20 stitch and maybe a couple of decorative stitches. Even if they don't=20 have a built-in buttonhole you can do a manual buttonhole with a basic=20 zig zag machine, but it's no fun after the first few. If you are=20 planning to sew a lot of clothes, buying a machine that has an easy=20 buttonhole maker may make good sense.=20

After that, the number of stitches increases (along with the price) and=20 you are in the realm of medium to high end sewing machines. Electronic=20 machines give the same penetrating power at all speeds and usually a=20 needle stop up/down option. Right at the top end, for several thousand=20 pounds/dollars you can buy a machine that will connect to your computer=20 and embroider images that you've designed on the PC.=20

However much you're planning to spend, you'll get more for your money if you buy second-hand. People often trade in their old machine when they=20 buy a new one. A trade-in will be much cheaper than the same machine=20 when new, and if it's been serviced by the dealer and has a dealer's=20 guarantee it should be fine. There isn't much to go wrong with sewing=20 machines. Unless one has really been hammered - used non-stop - parts=20 don't seem to wear. Check the finish of the paint: if it's worn or has=20 lots of nicks from pins, it's probably been used a lot.=20

When you go to test-drive machines, take along samples of the type of=20 fabrics you'll be sewing. Dealers often use a stiffened felt-type fabric for demonstrating their machines: almost anything will sew well on it.=20 Take samples of light-weight fabric such as fine sheeting or voile, and=20 some heavy-weight such as upholstery or denim. If you have a pair of old jeans, cut off the leg and try sewing over the bulky seam. Also try out=20 the sort of things you'll be sewing - do you use a lot of zippers?=20 You'll need to test the zipper foot. Buttons mean checking the=20 buttonhole facility. Make sure that YOU do the sewing - don't just=20 watch the dealer demonstrating. If the dealer won't let you sew on the=20 machine, leave the shop.=20

When you've decided which machine is for you, there's the price. You=20 wouldn't buy a car at the price on the windscreen, would you? Well, a=20 sewing machine is just the same. Haggle (nicely). It isn't rude: it's=20 good business practice. Every pound/dollar you get knocked off the=20 price is another spool of thread to use on your new machine. Ask "Will=20 you take =A3xxx (or $xxx) for cash?" "Will you throw in the xxx foot for=20 that price?" Say "That's more than my husband/wife/anyone else who=20 isn't there wants me to spend - can you knock something off?" "I like=20 this, but machine xxx at dealer yyy is nice too, and it's less". Don't=20 push too hard, though: you need after-sales support.=20

If you want extra feet, the quilting kit, or lessons, now is the time to negotiate for them. You may be able to get them thrown in or at least=20 reduced in price.=20

If you're buying a lower-end machine, a good bargaining tool is to make=20 it clear to the dealer that you'll come back to him/her when you're=20 ready to upgrade to a fancier model. You don't have to tell him that it=20 may not be within this lifetime.=20

There's a frequent debate in sewing newsgroups about buying on-line. You may be able to save a lot of money, but it will be at the expense of=20 local support. A machine bought on-line may not have a valid warranty.=20 You have to decide whether the money you'll save is worth the support=20 and warranty.=20

Once you've got your new machine home, take care of it. Clean it out at=20 the end of every project, and give it a nice new needle after every 6=20 hours of sewing. Protect your investment by using good-quality thread=20 and needles. Oil it if the manual tells you to, and do bring it in to=20 be serviced if you notice something is wrong.=20

Most of all, tho, enjoy your new hobby!=20

----- Some other sites to look at:

-------------- You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.=20

--Mae West=20

--------------

You might want to take a look at this site, entitled "What sewing machine should I buy?

Mary in New Orleans.

Reverse stitching is done at end and sometimes beginning of seams to finish/close them off. Keeps the seam from becoming undone.

Models to stay away from? Modern Singer machines (though some do love them), and those cheap Asian "mending" machines like the "Genie" in your post. The latter are simply cheap plastic both inside and out and will rarely give decent service.

You say "easy stuff" but putting a hem in jeans is quite different than hemming wool pants. Suppose you want to make some simple slip covers out of a bolt of canvas you picked up at a good price. Mending, darning, and perhaps even tackling a simple garment or two. In short while you may not wish a $2000 electronic/computerised sewing machine with 500 stitches, you should have one that is well built, sturdy and does at least the following:

Zig Zag Three Step Zig Zag (for mending) Blind hem Straight Stitch

First and foremost you want to sit yourself down and see if the machine you are considering can sew a good straight stitch. Most sewing stores will be happy to let you "play" with their machines both trade ins and new, so do not be shy. Bring along some scraps of material you most likely will be working with at first to see how various machines handle it.

Go to any good bookstore like Barnes and Nobel and read or purchase a good sewing book. My two personal recommendations are the ones by Singer and Reader's Digest. Vogue puts out a decent one as well, but leans a bit too much towards fancy dressmaking IMHO.

Regarding size, there are tons of vintage portable sewing machines from the 1960's and 1970's that are small and quite compact. Remember those were the eras when quite a few girls/women sewed and many took their machines with them to school/college, or some other trip away from home. One famous example of these units are the vintage Singer Featherweight machines. As many others posted, in a vintage machine you'll find the small size and portability you seek, and have a machine that will last the duration. Such machines easily outlast many of their computerised/electronic younger cousins, and certainly will out perform/last the "Genie" models you are considering.

"Genie" type machines are basically throw away items. When something goes wrong, and it will; they are not usually repairable.

If you purchase a machine from a sewing store/repair shop, most will give you some free lessons on how to use your new purchase. It does help to purchase a vintage unit that is complete with manual and accessories so you will have every thing you need at the ready.

Believe it or not , basic sewing on a good machine seems more daunting than it really is. Once you have mastered your machine's bobbin winding/threading and learned about tension setting, the rest is pretty easy. Well sewing straight seams that is! *LOL* It is sort of like driving a car, just aim the steering wheel steady, apply a bit of power, and the car will take care much of the rest.

Candide

One thing you might want to consider. Many brands use generic attachments. Some (Bernina, Pfaff, etc) use only specialist attachments - and they can cost!

If you want to stick to simple sewing and the basic feet are with the machine you won't have any problems. If you are offered a "bargain" that is missing basic attachments and it is one of the brands that uses only "genuine" feet/attachments, you could be up for some hidden costs.

Do you have a friend who sews who could go with you to check out possible buys and advise? If so, don't insist that they make the decision for you. Listen to their advice and thank them, and then think and decide what suits you. I am always happy to ADVISE but would never choose a machine for someone else.

One last thing - don't be put off by the weight of a machine. The heavier models (even with old portables) means they probably have at least internal metal parts, possibly even metal casings. That is a GOOD thing, not a disadvantage. Many modern portables are so light (marketed as an advantage!?!) that they bounce around on the table when you sew and they don't wear well.

Once you get a machine I think you will be agreeably surprised at how quickly you will pick up on the basics.

Do you know the name of that vogue book? I would definitley like to have it since I already have the readers digest book. I also saw that readers digest put out a new edition.....but everyone probably knows that lol!

TIA!

Michelle Giordano

P.S. To the original poster:

Definitley get a good sturdy used machine. Don't be scared. A sewing machine is complicated, yes........but so is a car, and would you think twice about driving your car? You will love it! If you have a Value Village nearby check that out too, they usually have them where I live (assuming you are in canada) or try the equivalent second hand for charity store in your area.

Hope you find a good one!

The one I have is: " The Vogue Sewing Book"copyright 1975,

6th printing 1979, ISBN 0-88421-019-7"

There is one listed here"

love it!

Michelle, Yes, Reader's Digest published a new edition of their beloved(to me, anyway) guide to sewing, but there is no comparison to the old one, IMOPO. Keep the old one! and purchase the Vogue book, too. Emily

IIRC the title was simply "Vogue Sewing", same as previous editions, just the most recent issue. If I go up B&N way this week will check. Don't get me wrong, the Vogue sewing book is great, but again it tends to focus more on dressmaking and fancy sewing skills than the basic nuts and bolts a beginner needs to get started.

Candide

Thats ok, I am not a beginner anymore, but I have this group and my readers digest to thank for my fast advancement! (And my DH who didn't complain too much when I wasn't ready to go back to work after maternity (now working again though) ) I love anything to do with sewing for weddings, or heirloom type things like christening gowns..... so I think that book would be an awesome investment!

Thanks!

Michelle Giordano

Thanks Beverly! I will be watching out for that one locally, and if that fails I will order it!

Michelle Giordano

I flipped through the pages of the new one in the bookstore.......I would rather have my old one!

I will be getting the vogue book!

Michelle Giordano

You really need to invest in Claire Shaeffer's books.

My favorite of hers is "Couture Sewing Techniques"

also have and like Claire's "High Fashion Sewing Secrets" but I would buy every one of her books if I could.

complain too

What passes for maternity leave these days is a crime, much like "labour and delivery". In the old days one was whisked into hospital soon as one's signals came and stayed for days after delivery. Now you stay home almost until the child's head is popping out and are sent home less than 24 hours after delivering.

investment!

YW, no problem at all.

IIRC Martha Pullen has a series of heirloom/vintage sewing books to die for. Saw a few on fleaBay but bidding went into $$$ so quickly lost interest! *LOL*

Speaking of eBay, you might wish to check there for a Vogue sewing book as both vintage and new turn up there from time to time. Don't know how much the current edition varies from one from the 1970's though.

Think I will pick up a copy when a few clients (shortened some pillow cases and did mending) pony up. Only really glanced at the book but IIRC it really went into detail on how to custom fit/adjust patterns, "couture" sewing tips and techniques, etc. When I graduate to making fitted suits or wedding gowns, it may come in handy! *LOL*x2. Have seen vintage copies of VS from the 50's and 60's and they went into detail on making those beautiful full "cotillion" frocks and full skirts.

Candide

I wanted to mention this. The sewing machine my grandmother always used at my house, growing up, is still there, where she always sat and sewed. My dad has a beautiful lace dollie (?) atop it and pics of my grandmother and some nice vases. I have not looked at that machine in years.

It is about the size of a small desk and is enclosed inside. You open the lid and it lays to the side, you pull out the heavy machine and then put the brace underneath it and allow it to sit in position. Damn, it must be 50 years old! In fact, the way it is powered, the pedal at the bottom is about 15 x 15 or so, I could be wrong. You set both feet on it and push it back and forth (I hope I am explaining this right). I have not thought of that machine in years even though I pass it all the time.

I sure miss my Granny.

Mark Ferrante Click here eveyday to feed a rescued animal:

"M. FERRANTE"

It is a treadle, I have one. If you want a strong machine that you can't break you should get one. My great grandpa used to make all the kids clothes and clothes for granny and himself. My baba thinks he was reincarnated in me lol! As for granny sewing.....well........didn't happen.....lol!

My treadle was made in 1948 and it sat for years without being used. A bit of oil and figuring out how to insert the needle and thread it and it was as good as new! Mine only does a straight stitch.

Michelle Giordano

P.s. Do you mean Doilie?

That machine may be older than 50 years. Maybe your Dad would allow you to come over and use your Granny's machine for a while? And if there are drawers in the cabinet, you will most likely find some extra bobbins, maybe needles and possibly the manual. The needles may not be good because of the age. Tell your Dad you want to sew like your Grandmother, he might be thrilled, older people are usually sentimental. Should you get a chance, I think there is a group for treadlers somewhere around, I don't know the name. One of my DD, who sews, says my DGD, her daughter, recently bought the book, Sewing for Dummies, at Barnes & Noble with some of her birthday money I sent her. DD was looking at it and told me it had lots of good information for a newbie, it was clear and simple to read and understand. Emily