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I've tried three times to send a message to the Pattern Drafting post,
and cannot get it through.  Let's see if this works.

Farml, I found Jacqueline's critique curious, too, considering she
claims to be an experienced drafter.  Silhouette, size, or perfect
figure proportions have nothing to do with manipulations.  Once a
sloper is perfected, the manipulations for different styles stay the

Someone else said that the book had errors.  The first edition of the
book had errors that caused the resulting sloper to have too much
ease.  These errors were corrected in subsequent editions.

Two things that potential patternmakers should consider.  (1)  All
darts point at the bust or hip.  That is true whether the dart is
transformed into pleats, tucks or gathers.  (2)  All designs, from
bras and bathing suits, to heavy coats, are developed from the basic
sloper.  I had my students develop a basic four-piece sloper, a pants
block, a jacket block, and a bra and bathing suit.  We also did knits
and stretch knits.

My favorite chapter in the Armstrong book is the asymmetrical
manipulation of darts into seams.  My students came up with fantastic
variations, and built wonderful, color blocked garments that showed no
darts.  What fun!


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Yup.  Received loud and clear.
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Perhaps she is what I think is called a "blow hard" in the US (if that means
all talk no action) :-))

I certainly thought it was a very weird comment too so we both think the
same by the sound of it.
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Good to know.  I'll try to get hold of 2nd or later editions.

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Waht sort of classes do you teach?  Sewing obviously but is it fahion design
or production or the whole lot?

Dear Farml,

I was Director of the Fashion Program at Columbia College, then
Lindenwood University.  I have also taught at Syracuse University and
Southern Illinois University at Carbondale, Illinois.  I taught
Patternmaking, Draping, Computer-Aided Design, Museology, Textile
Science, Fiber Art, Theatre and Theatre Costume, History of Costume.
I also helped my students with their papers in other classes.  I'm
retired now, and my husband says I "play with dolls."  I really design
them, and dress them in historic costume.  Almost as much fun as

My students are in various fashion centers--one of whom has designed
costumes for two movies, and dresses models and country music stars.
Others are in New York, Chicago, Houston and Dallas, working in their
fields.  I'm very proud of them.


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Wow!  There is a truckload of experience there. If you're not careful you'll
get no rest from the questions fired at you from rest of us on this list

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It's always nice to see one's protegees make good isn't it?  I can well
understand your pride in your former students but no doubt they also have
fond memmories of their former teacher(s).

missyj had written this in response to  :
Hi -- I'm new to drafting and sloper making.  Can you tell me a good book
or resource for what you do after you make a sloper?  

Many thanks.
------------------------------------- wrote:

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Delivered via
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Web and RSS access to your favorite newsgroup -
alt.sewing - 29003 messages and counting!

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In the more modest price range, I really like the books by Rene Bergh.  She
has written 2 that I know of, "Make your own Patterns" and I think the other
is called "Classic Clothes".


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I use Pamela Stringer's book on Pattern Drafting when I want to make a
pattern from scratch.  We are packing to move soon and all my sewing
books are packed away.   I think her book is simply called Pattern
Drafting for Dressmaking.  It's paperback (A4 size) and I found it
incredibly good.

I also use Fast Fit for Every Figure by Sandra Betzina.  This book
enables me to alter commercial patterns to fit me perfectly.  It has
such good tips in it as well - eg catering to short waist, wide or
narrow shoulders, forward-neck and rounded backs.  I love it.

On 27 Feb 2008 00:05:43 GMT, missyj <missyj1987_at_pe
oplepc_dot> wrote:
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I'd suggest Connie Crawford's Patternmaking Made Easy, which was written
for beginning design students.  Unlike Armstrong,
Crawford has you balance
the patterns explicitly (for grain line, armscye shape,
 etc.) which makes
them much easier to work with.

Kay Lancaster  

You could also have a look at

"How to Make Sewing Patterns by Don McCunn.

It may be in your local library too.

He also has a Yahoo group.


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He is beginning to conduct on-line classes, but recently concluded the
absolute-beginner's class, and doesn't plan to come back to it until
several other projects are cleared away.  But the discussion of "The
Apron Project" is quite informative, and may give you ideas for
fiddling around on your own.   You have to join the group to look at
the photos and files, but you can set "no mail" when joining and have
nothing but access to the Web site.

The course was based on the idea of using a wine bottle as a
simplified dress dummy:  it lacks any confusing details, and you use
hardly any fabric dressing it.  

In addition to being a good kindergarten-level learning tool, the wine
bottle turned out to be a good way to test ideas before incorporating
them into garment designs.  

Joy Beeson
joy beeson at comcast dot net -- sewing
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
And the "Make your own Custom Bra" will be good too. Don McCunn is very
talented isn't he Joy?


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