Pattern for Polo Shirt and advice

Dear Bill,

Do you have a regular shirt that you like? If so, polo shirts are developed from this. You can cut your own pattern, and get exactly what you want. Find the center front of the shirt. This is where the fold will go. Cut off the sleeve where you want it. If it's quite tapered, then you need to straighten it some, or fold under 1-1/2 inches for a hem before you cut it off. Straighten out the hem at the bottom of the body at the length you want.

Now the placket. Measure down your front for the length you want the placket. The finished placket is 1-1/4 inches wide. Now make a box on the front of your draft at the center front, the length you want by

5/8 inch (for half). Add seam allowances after you're done. The draft for the placket is 2-1/2 inches wide by your desired length, plus seam allowances. These pieces will be folded in half lengthwise, to form a self facing. They are stacked on top of each other for sewing. Make sure to stay stitch the opening so it doesn't stretch.

You can use the existing stand from your dress shirt, and develop the collar the way you want it. You said you wanted longer points. Just make sure that the collar fits between the dots on the stand.

Teri

is a fairly decent polo shirt pattern with placket variations -- you'll just need to substiture collarand band from another pattern (or Teri or I can teach you how to draftthem). Hint: you can shorten or lengthen collars and bands at the center back to fit a shirt neckline, and you can pretty much do whatever you like to the collar's outside edges without changing the fit. Measure the easeon this pattern to see if it's what you like... this looks a bit "boxy90's" for current menswear fashions, and I've only made that pattern a coupleof times back in the 90's-- you may find you want to reduce or contour the side seams. Jalie 961 might be another choice -- I have not made this pattern -- I drape and draft my own now.http://jalie.com/sewingpatterns/casual_mens.htmAnother hint: if you're looking for a collar and band to steal, one that hasseparate top and bottom collar and inner and outer band pieces has almostalways been drafted by someone who knows what they're doing -- especially ifthey give you the whole piece rather than "cut on fold". "Cut 2 on fold" to me means I'd better triple check the pattern before cutting. Jersey, imho, is not as easy to sew as interlock or one of the wicking polyester fabrics. Jersey wants to roll up on the crossgrain, and I have better things to do with my time than unroll jersey to sew.

Lacoste, pique or interlock is what I see a lot of the "nicer" polos in, with some novelty knits. If you're looking for straight cotton, I like Siltex's "bare knits" interlock, which also has ribbing available for several colors; they also make a poly-cotton interlock.

last shirts I made DH were mostly wicking polyester, which is quite easyto sew, and he seems to find quite comfortable. You'll want "midweight"rather than "silk weight" -- and I can vouch for Malden's PowerDry as agood product: you'll find the wicking polys in stores that cater to the outdoorcrowd:

Dear Kay,

I always taught my students to draft whole collar and stand patterns, and then to cut them on the straight grain, rather than the cross grain. It makes them much easier to iron, if they need it.

Teri

Kay Lancaster wrote:

Kay, thanks so much for the complete and helpful post. I'm following up on all of the links you gave and now have some decisions to make, but no more questions about this project. JPBill

Teri, thanks for your prompt reply and helpful hints. Coupled with Kay Lancaster's and the sources for material, I'm off! JPBill

Forgot to add... fwiw. I like edgestitched knit collars better than topstitched, I've decided. They just look a bit crisper. And watch the collar tip distortions with knits... minimal seam allowance, and press carefully to avoid the rounded lump that can happen.

Kay