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Hello Kay,

as far as I remember, you have some (considerable) experience with making  
pintucks with a twin needle. I'd like to hear some or all of your advice on  
it. I bought two lovely poly chiffons yesterday (Hell, I just went by that  
store and I didn't even want to go in and then my DD said 'Let's go in!' and  
before I knew what happened I left with these fabrics in my backpack!) and  
now I want to make a summer dress and a top of them. I had first thought  
that I'd do them  peasant style, but then I made up my mind and thought of  
something involving loads of pintucks. ;-) Ready to suck up all info I can  


Re: Ping@Kay
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Works best if you've got a pintuck foot, which is a foot with grooves on the bottom that  
match the size of the twin needle you're using.   Do you want to do plain pintucks, or  
corded pintucks?

Perle cotton works well for cording smallish pintucks, and if your fabric is fairly
sheer, like the chiffon,  you can use a colored perle cotton for a colored pintuck.

If your machine doesn't have a hole for adding cording (the video shows one in a  
bobbin case cover, but they can be in needle plates, too!) a piece of narrow diameter
straw commonly used over here for stirring coffee  
( )
or narrow diameter tubing, or even a piece of plastic jacketing from electrical wire  
that's been stripped off:
can be taped down on the bed of the machine in front of the foot, and the cording run
through that.

Other than machine setup, the process is pretty much automagic.

Go here: and download Carol Ahles' twin needle work reference chart and tuck it away someplace  
safe... Threads is now making you pay for online access to that.

If you don't have a pintuck foot, a regular embroidery foot (or just about any other  
foot with a groove on the bottom) will allow twin needle pintucks to form -- you'll  
have a tougher time making them parallel.  In that case, I mark the pintuck locations  
with chalk (preferably a chakoner) or a hera marker, spaced out as I want on the  
fabric, and then stitch, rather than trying to space the pintucks out using the edge  
of the foot, or a quilting guide or the like.

Remember, you can use pintucks in place of dart uptake.  Holler if that appeals, and I'll
try to walk you through that. (Do you know how to move a dart?)


Re: Ping@Kay
ps: Do you know the trick of cutting chiffon with paper to keep it from distorting or  
raveling before it gets sewn?

pps: When you go serger shopping, ask them to show you serger pintucks and serger
"french seams".  In chiffon or similar very light fabric, the first stitching of the  
french seams can be done with a narrow overlock, or even a rolled hem.


Re: Ping@Kay

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OK, this might be against the netiquette but I won't snip anything from your  
post. ;-)

What I have in mind are rather flat pintucks, the type you iron down flat to  
one side, with their seams meeting on the left side of the fabric, really  
sharp ones, and a lot of them so that the fabric will look a little like  
ruffled at the end of the tucks.

I ordered a pintuck foot with 7 grooves, suitable for medium weight to fine  
fabrics, and the 2.0 mm twin needle recommend to use with it. The tucks will  
be very tiny then. I hope the entire thing will work...

Uptake means in this case the minimizing of fabric width? And what do you  
mean by move a dart?


Re: Ping@Kay
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Husband the engineer sat down to the computer with my google image search of  
"curved french darts" still up in the search box.  His first thought was, "no,
don't do that, darts won't fly precisely if they're not straight".



Re: Ping@Kay
On 4/23/2015 7:00 PM, Kay Lancaster wrote:
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A curved dart is a boomerang, isn't it?  Comes right back to you!

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