Pivot and slide?

Dear Olwyn Mary,

You can pivot 1-1/2 inches to the side seams. If you do this to the front and back, you will add six inches, without changing the shoulder length or armhole. If instructions are needed, let us know; I'll guide you through.

Teri

Dear Teri, I would LOVE expanded instructions from you. Also, I have read this sort of complaint on other boards (I just saw one on the PMB e-mail chat list this afternoon) so I imagine there are others out there who would appreciate it.

Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.

None, really, though you can expect some distortions. I find the moving seam line method easier, however:

I want to make a t-shirt type knit top to go with a particular outfit. > I have a pattern which used to fit nicely, before I had to take all > these wretched steroids which have put about four inches on my bustline > (and my hipline, and...) Problem is, the newer, larger pattern sized to > fit my new measurement assumes that I have also developed a bull neck, > football shoulders and arms like hams - none of which is so. To use the Yup, that's a common distortion built into grading schemes. If you'reinto the plus ranges, I definitely suggest Connie Crawford's patterns -- they were developed on a composite3x fit model, and then she developed her own grading system up and downfrom there. Nice patterns, go together easily. I've only made up oneof Kathleen Cheatham's patterns impression was that this was a good pattern for a short (under 5'2"figure), but the grading may not be so well refined as Connie's.

Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.

Dear Olwyn Mary,

First, measure the amount you need to add to your circumference, then divide by four.

Trace the center front, neck, and shoulder of your pattern onto large piece of paper, padded so you can stick pins in it. Stick a pin in the shoulder seam; pivot out the amount needed; trace the armhole. Remove the pin at the top of the armhole, and stick a pin in the side seam at the end of the armhole. Pivot back, so that grainline on pattern is again straight. You will notice that the center front has moved over the amount you need to enlarge the front, without changing the shoulder and armhole. Do the same with the back. I use this alteration often, and the pattern is left unchanged. I strongly suggest that you make a muslin for testing before using your fashion fabric. You may not need as much alteration as you may think. Good luck!!!

Teri

I'll admit that I haven't done this particular fix (it's easier for me to drape a new basic bodice), but I can see no reason why it wouldn't work.

Do you have Leichty, Pottberg and Rasband, or just the small book Rasband did? If you've got the Rasband only title, take a look at the other; pivot and slide, slash and spread, moving seamline... all do the same things. I'm fairly sure this was addressed in Leichty et al, but my copy's out on loan at the moment.

Kay

I have the big one, "Fitting and Pattern Alteration", but I find Teri's explanation of this particular task more comprehensible. (I guess that's why she was such a success as Fashion Department head in the college where she was teaching - she can get through to all kinds of people.)

Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.

I've used the pivot and slide method to size a pattern up from a size

14 to a 28. My customer, who happens to be my best friend, was so pleased, so I know it works. measure carefully and start at the top of a blouse or top, I think. A square would be a value to make sure you are leaving the neck opening right for yourself. I need to get one and give it a try. Kitty