possible to identify source of garment by examining stitching, inner materials, etc?

No: with RTW too many of the techniques are universal, and often the fabric is woven in one place and made into garments in another, for sale in a third! It's also impossible to tell where a machine made in the far east was sited when the garment was made up: there are only about 3 serger factories in the world, and their machines ship all over - how can you tell that a machine made in factory A was used in Country 3, 4,

9, or 15? It will still stitch the same!

The only way to tell this sort of information is if you are looking at ethnic clothing, and even there it can be hard. For example, it's possible to get a salwar kameez outfit made in Bradford using exactly the same fabrics and techniques as used in India: once the garment is sewn up, how do you tell? You can't!

Bespoke is a bit different: there are certain styles and techniques more common to the tailors of Hong Kong than to those of Saville Row, BUT unless you are an expert, you wouldn't be able to see them. Most of them are hidden. Hand finished and largely hand tailored things are a Saville Row speciality, but most of the work (about 75% of the stitching) is hidden when the garment is complete. Some of the differences are in the pressing rather than the stitching, and THAT is a lot more subtle and difficult to see! I did once meet a tailor who could look at a bespoke suit and say 'Not one of ours: try Xxxxx', or 'This is a Hong Kong/American/French garment', but he had over 50 years experience at this sort of thing. Nice bloke: worked for Gieves & Hawkes - and made my dad a couple of uniforms and a suit or two.

A true bespoke jacket is not manufactured but, 75% to 100% hand sewn. Bespoke is a tailor or cutter that measures the customer and then makes a pattern for that customer, cuts the cloth and trimmings and then sews some of it, fits the body of the jacket to the customer with a "fitting", finishes most of the body of the jacket and then puts the sleeves and collar on, second fitting, sews the sleeves in permantly, finishes the collar, lining, etc., and final press, then the buttons.

Bespoke tailors & cutters are from Western Europe. They are not the same as Eastern Europe tailors, or South American tailors, or Asian tailors, or Costume tailors. Next, but not tailors, but sometimes they call themselve or advertise as tailors are shops that take your measurements and send them off to a manufacture, which makes manufactured garments - if you can't afford a tailored garment and the ones at the store can't be fitted - this is a good place to go (made to measure).

Some tailors have several price ranges. Such as, pre-made fronts (canvases) and ok fit; to pre-made fronts and well fitted; semi-tailored; to full tailored; to 100% hand sewn (some of these run up to $5,000 a 3 piece suite), to $20,000 - $25,000.

Most manufactured jackets (coats) have gummed or glued right onto the jacket cloth front itself (for shaping), you will feel only the outer cloth and lining. Some have pre-made fronts (canvas) that have be gummed or glued together, you will be able to feel three pieces- outer cloth, canvas and lining.

Tailored jackets (coats) the canvases are pre-made and machine sewn - not gummed or glued ($2-$10 a set).

Bespoke tailored jackets (coats) the canvases are hand cut to the customer and hand sewn to the shape of the customer. There are several ways to cut and sew these canvases, and several ways to do the final pressing, not to mention fittings. One story is where a cutter measured a customer and made the pattern, cut the cloth for three suites, all the same and then handed each set to three different tailors; in the end they all looked different, but they all fit. One tailor might believe in pressing the coat on the flat, except for the sleeve caps; whereas, another might believe every part of the coat should be pressed on the curve (tailor ham, sleeve roll, and press-mitt, etc.), except the front edge. Therefore, each tailoring company has an idea of what the finished jacket should look like, fit, what kind of movements the customer can make, and even what the suit does when the customer sits in a chair. Who would make unlabled tailored garments? A retired tailor, tailor hobbyist, a tailor who tailors on the side and does not want to be fired from the tailor company he works for (or not interested having labels made), or somebody who is thinking about starting there own tailor company.

John

John,, thnaks for such a complete explanation of tailoring, and all the various permutations thereby.

Just out of curiosity, what is your own background with this? You seem to have more than a nodding acquaintance with the subject!

Karen Maslowski in Cincinnati

Hi Karen,

Me, taking a class from

My Granddad wasa bespoke tailor and decided to do farming instead at about the age of 21.His suites were impeccable, not at all like anything else I've ever seen,other than his brothers (pictures), so I believe his father was a tailor,too. He came from a small town in Sweden and his older brother came to theUSA first, then my Granddad came over (the older brother moved back andforth several times I guess and then stayed in Sweden). The philosophy oftheir suites was 'the suite makes the man wearing it look like the mostpowerful person in the room.' One magnificent tailored jacket I saw a manwearing, instead of drawing the attention to the man wearing it - the jacketstoled the show. Granddad said boys were to start tailoring before the ageof 6, so I've heard of Tailor & Cutter before that age. Nowadays there areso few tailors a person can start at any age. There is even a biggershortage of women tailors than men's tailors, nowadays. My granddad died inthe late sixties. One of my uncles, on the other side of the family, wentto "tailors" for his suites and alot of them looked like manufacturedsuites, nothing of grandeur; My aunt would say something like this "we knowof one real tailor, these others were not so sure of." These internet classes last one year. Some complete the class in 6 months. If you do not finish in 12 months and still want to finish, then you'll pay extra- probably by the month. I think the two tailor class still cost $800 each (men's - women's) If you buy the class kit it cost about $400. Two cutter classes, if you take these you will have a much better understanding of patterns, measuring, and fitting. A class for running a business. And, a class for fitting if you don't want to take the other classes (for people who work in stores, I'm sure you don't need to work in a store to take this class, if you plan on taking the tailoring class - don't take this class). Tailoring is not the same as dress making, but still invaluable knowlege and skill if you love to sew cloths. For example, I took a formula for making a suite jacket and put my measurements in and removed the darts and back seam, them adjusted the side lines to make a shirt/jacket- designed the collar pattern from collar formula, and made the sleeves. My Granddad said to never make a shirt/jacket - make either a shirt or a jacket, after making the shirt/jacket I decided he was right. Since women have move into top levels in the business world there is a need for top level suites for these women, which means top level prices for those who make them - it may be well worth your time to learn and market this trade. After working at many other jobs and a knee injury I decided to give tailoring a try.

John

Thanks for the long reply, John. The Tailors & Cutters site is an excellent resource.

Best of luck with your training and eventual career; it sounds as though you have the gene, as well as the desire!

Karen Maslowski in Cincinnati