problem with inset on tunic top

Link?

Just a general dressmaking thought. I would stay-stitch the top setting the stitches before and after each corner at seriously short stitches and clip all the way to within just a thread or 2 in the corner. Inserting the inset should go easily with that preparation. Also: have a caution about pressing. Needs to be an up/down sort of press. None of that back and forth sort of motion. Polly

It's the third line down, but being the nice person I am, I'll post it again.;)

Juno, I don't quite know what's going on, but I would check the pattern seamlines carefully against one another... a friend found one of the Birch St. patterns to be off on several seam lengths, but I don't know if this was one of them. If they're different lengths, they're going to bubble.

If the pattern checks ok, then I'd check the seamm allowance (you're essentially sewing convex to concave), and check the accuracy of your cutting.

The other possibility is that you're getting so much thread into the seam at the corners between the staystitching and seamm that the fabric is puckering a bit right there. This is a form of structural displacement/ jamming puckering. (Do you know about this page?:

) I would have probably used an extremely lightweight fusible to stabilize these edges before starting to sew, to help protect them against accidental stretching from handling. I've got some fusible tricot that is very lightweight (intended for interfacing georgettes and the like), that just adds stability, not bulk or stiffness. Or I would have painted the seamline areas with heavy starch or Elmer's School Glue, to stabilize before and during sewing, but these will wash out easily. I also have some self-stick embroidery stabilizer that's good for this sort of thing -- I think it's Solvy Sticky -- I like it, it's just a whole lot more expensive than a little cornstarch or a 20 cent bottle of School Glue or scraps of fusible.

Kay

OOps! :-D I blame the decaff...

On that sort of seam, I always sew with the main part uppermost, and stop-and-pivot with the needle down at each corner (dot), folding the excess fabric out of the way before proceeding to the rest of the seam. . I like Kay's idea of reinforcing the seam line at the dot with something dissolvable. Oh, and I slash to the dot BEFORE beginning the seam.

B

Thanks Kay, I tried it again on a slightly heavier fabric and got a better result. Just not what I was thrilled with. The first time I made the top it was a heavier weight. I was using a light weight for my muslin because I have a piece of of voile and a piece of lawn I want to do the top in. I'll try again using a very light weight stabilizer, or some glue on the light weight I have for muslins. I also measure all my seam lines for accuracy. I don't think I have any tricot, but I'll look in the boxes I have downstairs. Juno

I'll try that too, slash then sew. Got to watch that decafe, it's heavy duty stuff. :) J

Be sure you have run a line of stitching just scant of the seamline, to the corner and continuing on to the other side for an inch or so, each side of the dot. I shorten the stitch length to "very short" three-or-four stitches each side of the dot. When you clip, be really careful not to clip those stitches.

Good luck.

B

I've tried the method suggested by Kay on both fabrics and I think my problem is the first fabric. It's a poly cotton and doesn't handle well. the second fabric is muslin. Right now I'm tired and have a lot of other things on my mind. I'm packing everything away and taking it to the Cape. Unfortunately I won't be able to post from there since I can't get on eternal-september either here or out there. It seems optimum is just letting me use their news reader and blocking everyone else. That or it's just me. I'll let Beverly know how I'm doing by email. I need some beach time to clear my head. Juno

Following up on my own post, I was thinking that I might combine the inset with the top and make a yoke. I just don't know if I want to keep struggling with something that is giving me more stress than I need right now. I won't give up on getting that silly corner just perfect, just not now.I have to give that some thought. I'll be in touch with my final decision. Juno