problem with inset on tunic top

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I've been working on a muslin for a tunic top I finally  got the back to  
fit just the way I wanted.

http://www.birchstreetclothing.com/prod.php?itemID=24&colID=8

My problem is the insert in the front.
The directions say to reinforce the corners, sew the two inset pieces  
together at the bottom with the right side overlapping the left side.

Right sides together,stitch inset from upper edge to dot,press toward front.
Clip  front at inside corner to dot. stitch seam between dots matching  
center fronts.
The picture in the directions show the stitching being done from the  
inset side not the main piece of the top.
I have tried this about  5  times and get these corners that bubble.
If you look at the picture in the link you can see what the front looks  
like.
I'm really stymied as to why I can't get a nice corner. The weird thing  
is I made this top about 10 years ago and didn't have a problem.
  Any suggestions.
Juno
















Re: problem with inset on tunic top
Juno wrote:
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Link?  


Re: problem with inset on tunic top
Just a general dressmaking thought.  I would stay-stitch the top setting the  
stitches before and after each corner at seriously short stitches and clip  
all the way to within just a thread or 2 in the corner.  Inserting the inset  
should go easily with that preparation.  Also: have a caution about  
pressing.  Needs to be an up/down sort of press. None of that back and forth  
sort of motion. Polly


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Re: problem with inset on tunic top
On 7/29/2013 10:49 PM, BEI Design wrote:
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It's the third line down, but being the nice person I am, I'll post it  
again.;)

http://www.birchstreetclothing.com/prod.php?itemID=24&colID=8

Re: problem with inset on tunic top

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OOps!  :-D  I blame the decaff...

On that sort of seam, I always sew with the main part uppermost, and  
stop-and-pivot with the needle down at each corner (dot), folding  
the excess fabric out of the way before proceeding to the rest of  
the seam. .  I like Kay's idea of reinforcing the seam line at the  
dot with something dissolvable. Oh, and I slash to the dot BEFORE  
beginning the seam.

B  


Re: problem with inset on tunic top
On 7/30/2013 12:27 PM, BEI Design wrote:
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I'll try  that too, slash then sew. Got to watch that decafe, it's heavy  
duty stuff.  :)
J

Re: problem with inset on tunic top
Juno wrote:
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Be sure you have run a line of stitching just scant of the seamline,  
to the corner and continuing on to the other side for an inch or so,  
each side of the dot.  I shorten the stitch length to "very short"  
three-or-four stitches each side of the dot.  When you clip, be  
really careful not to clip those stitches.

Good luck.

B  


Re: problem with inset on tunic top
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Juno, I don't quite know what's going on, but I would check the pattern seamlines carefully against one  
another... a friend found one of the Birch St. patterns to be off on several seam lengths, but I don't know if  
this was one of them.  If they're different lengths, they're going to bubble.

If the pattern checks ok, then I'd check the seamm allowance (you're essentially sewing convex to concave),  
and check the accuracy of your cutting.

The other possibility is that you're getting so much thread into the seam at the corners between the staystitching
and seamm that the fabric is puckering a bit right there.  This is a form of structural displacement/
jamming puckering. (Do you know about this page?: http://www.amefird.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/Minimizing-Seam-Puckering-2-5-10.pdf )

I would have probably used an extremely lightweight fusible to stabilize these edges before starting to sew,  
to help protect them against accidental stretching from handling.  I've got some fusible tricot that
is very lightweight (intended for interfacing georgettes and the like), that just adds stability, not bulk  
or stiffness.  Or I would have painted the seamline areas with heavy starch or Elmer's School Glue, to stabilize
before and during sewing, but these will wash out easily.  I also have some self-stick embroidery stabilizer
that's good for this sort of thing -- I think it's Solvy Sticky -- I like it, it's just a whole lot more
expensive than a little cornstarch or a 20 cent bottle of School Glue or scraps of fusible.

Kay




Re: problem with inset on tunic top
On 7/30/2013 11:42 AM, Kay Lancaster wrote:
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Thanks Kay,
I tried it again on a slightly heavier fabric and got  a better result.  
Just not what I was thrilled with.
The first time I made the top it was a heavier weight.
  I was using a light weight for my muslin because I have a piece of of  
voile and a piece of lawn I want to do the top in.
I'll try  again using a very light weight stabilizer, or some glue on  
the light weight I have for muslins. I also measure all my seam lines  
for accuracy.
I don't think I have any tricot, but I'll look in the boxes I have  
downstairs.
Juno

Re: problem with inset on tunic top
On 7/30/2013 12:42 PM, Juno wrote:
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I've tried the method suggested by Kay on both fabrics and I think my  
problem is the first fabric. It's a poly cotton and doesn't handle well.  
the second fabric is  muslin.
Right now I'm tired and have a lot of other things on my mind. I'm  
packing everything away and taking it to the Cape.
Unfortunately I won't be able to post from there since I can't get on  
eternal-september either here or out there.
  It seems optimum is just letting me use their news reader and blocking  
everyone else. That or it's just me. I'll let  Beverly know how I'm  
doing by email.
I need some beach time to clear my head.
Juno



Re: problem with inset on tunic top
On 7/30/2013 5:56 PM, Juno wrote:
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Following up on my own post, I was thinking that I might combine the  
inset with the top and make a yoke. I just don't know if I want to keep  
struggling with something that is giving me more stress than I need  
right now. I won't give up on getting that silly corner just perfect,  
just not now.I have to give that some thought. I'll be in touch with my  
final decision.
Juno

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