question? kwik sew 3610

For this first one, you could just shorten the ties? That may make the neckline too high though.

I'm assuming from the line drawing that it has finished facings for the "armholes". If so, it may be too much effort to unpick the side seams of both the top and facing, take in the side seams (both facing and bodice) enough to eliminate the gap, and re-sew. Do a pin fitting before sewing.

Taking a tuck through four layers (plus the additional bulk in the seams) might not work well.

Yes, use the smaller size for the armhole for the next version. It might also be as simple as raising the underarm area, maybe 1/2" (and making the same alteration to the facings).

For this particular pattern, yes, adding to the center front and center back would probably do well. ***Be sure you allow for ease***.

You say, "the xlarge measures to a 45" bust". Do you mean the actual pattern pieces (minus seam allowances) or the "bust measurement" on the pattern size chart? If it's the size chart "bust measurement" then ease is already added to that number, and you only have to add 4" divided by 4 = 1" to CF and CB on the fold.

If the PATTERN measures 45", you want to add back in the ease amount before making alterations. For instance, if the bustline ease allowance (the actual pattern measurement minus the bust measurement from the pattern back) is 4" you would calculate: 4"(the amount you need to add) + (additional for ease, i.e.) 4" = 8" divided by 2 (front and back) divided by 2 (each side of CF and CB) = 2" inches and add that result to the center front AND center back fold line. Make sure that does not drop the neckline too low for modesty, you might want to raise the front neckline a bit as well. Make sure that the resulting "armhole" is suffuicient for you.

NOTE: that advice WOULD NOT WORK for most other styles.

Good luck, have fun with it!

""For this first one, you could just shorten the ties? That may make the neckline too high though. ""

That's exactly the problem!

""I'm assuming from the line drawing that it has finished facings for the "armholes". If so, it may be too much effort to unpick the side seams of both the top and facing, take in the side seams (both facing and bodice) enough to eliminate the gap, and re-sew. Do a pin fitting before sewing. ""

I can unpick the the side seams, and in reading what you wrote. it DOES make the most sense! Thank you!

Taking a tuck through four layers (plus the additional bulk in the seams) might not work well.

""Yes, use the smaller size for the armhole for the next version. It might also be as simple as raising the underarm area, maybe 1/2" (and making the same alteration to the facings). ""

Thank you. and thank you for reminding me regarding the faciings! :)

For this particular pattern, yes, adding to the center front and center back would probably do well. ***Be sure you allow for ease***.

""You say, "the xlarge measures to a 45" bust". Do you mean the actual pattern pieces (minus seam allowances) or the "bust measurement" on the pattern size chart? If it's the size chart "bust measurement" then ease is already added to that number, and you only have to add 4" divided by 4 = 1" to CF and CB on the fold. ""

YES-measures a 45" bust (bust measurement).NOT including the ease, so I think this will work.

Again, thank you for your time! I appreciate it very much!

betsey

Can the gaping be pinned out at the side seam? If so, that's where I'd address the issue in the current top.

I think the cure will actually be to reshape the neckline curve. Pin out a nearly horizontal dart from the armscye in front and back. Figure out how much you've taken out and transfer that to the shaping of the neckline curve. But this is just a guess without seeing the top on her. Watch the grainlines -- they'll tell you what needs to be done.

Misses' patterns are typically designed for B cups. If your daughter is larger or smaller than a B, this could be what's producing the gaping at the armscye.

Same issues... you're going to run into cup size issues and gaping, most likely. Here's a fairly standard method of grading... but because the top has already been graded from a medium to an XL, grading up more is likely to induce quite a bit of distortion (overgrading contributes to gapping, strange necklines, etc.):

Do you have a fairly plain, sleeveless pattern that fits you well? If so, I'd be inclined to use that as a basis for copying the KS pattern, as it appears to be basically a jumper pattern that's had the shoulder straps amputated and replaced by the straps in casing, and the front and back slashed and spread to add fullness. I'd probably start with Butterick 5049.

Kay

Kay-

thank you very much for your reply! i haven't had the chance to attack the dress yet , but I am printing both yours and Beverly's responses out as resources.

I so appreciate everyone's kindness in sharing their knowledge!